first off can you check the stator while it is on bike? i took my ohm meter put it on 200 ohms touch one lead to one ring and other one to other ring and it completely zeros out is this bad? I thought it was supposed to read 2.4 ohms or so?
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stator check?
- Thread starter huey224
- Start date
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- Tags
- electrical
Yes, you can check both the stator as well as the rotor on the bike.
The stator has three white wires you test the ohms on. Best to do this with the yellow wire unplugged. Test the ohms from the three sets of white wires and from the wires to the engine case. The white wires should all be the same, about .46 to .9 ohms. The exact reading isn't as important as that they all read the same. And from the wires to the engine should read infinity.
The rotor is what has the two slip rings. Measure from one ring to the other, should be about 5 ohms, but 4 to 7 will be ok. Test from the slip rings to ground, it should be infinity. Often it is hard to reach the inner slip ring. Removing the brushes and the holder help get room to reach the slip ring.
When you do these tests you need to set the meter to it's lowest ohm setting. 200 ohms indicates a digital meter. Easy to read.
Now touch the leads together. You will get a reading, this reading is the ohms of the leads themselves. Remember this reading. Lets just say it's .7 ohms. One of mine reads .1 ohms doing this, my other one reads .7 ohms.
Now test the rotor, lets just say it reads 6.1 ohms. Now subtact the first reading from the second and you get the actual ohms of your rotor.
As in 6.1 - .7 = 5.4 this means the rotor is ok.
If you don't know just how to use your meter google how to use a meter. There are plenty of sites that will explain it, even some with video's.
Leo
The stator has three white wires you test the ohms on. Best to do this with the yellow wire unplugged. Test the ohms from the three sets of white wires and from the wires to the engine case. The white wires should all be the same, about .46 to .9 ohms. The exact reading isn't as important as that they all read the same. And from the wires to the engine should read infinity.
The rotor is what has the two slip rings. Measure from one ring to the other, should be about 5 ohms, but 4 to 7 will be ok. Test from the slip rings to ground, it should be infinity. Often it is hard to reach the inner slip ring. Removing the brushes and the holder help get room to reach the slip ring.
When you do these tests you need to set the meter to it's lowest ohm setting. 200 ohms indicates a digital meter. Easy to read.
Now touch the leads together. You will get a reading, this reading is the ohms of the leads themselves. Remember this reading. Lets just say it's .7 ohms. One of mine reads .1 ohms doing this, my other one reads .7 ohms.
Now test the rotor, lets just say it reads 6.1 ohms. Now subtact the first reading from the second and you get the actual ohms of your rotor.
As in 6.1 - .7 = 5.4 this means the rotor is ok.
If you don't know just how to use your meter google how to use a meter. There are plenty of sites that will explain it, even some with video's.
Leo
Originally the yellow wire went to the safety relay. The safety relay is a device that turns the starter off when the engine starts. This prevents overrunning the starter and damaging the gears between the starter and crank. It also prevents the starter from working when the engine is running.
On the later models 78 or 79 up the safety relay also turned the headlight on.
It sounds like your wiring has been modified somewhere in it's lifetime.
Some mods I agree with, others I don't. If you are using the starter then you should use the safety relay. If kick only then it can be removed.
Leo
On the later models 78 or 79 up the safety relay also turned the headlight on.
It sounds like your wiring has been modified somewhere in it's lifetime.
Some mods I agree with, others I don't. If you are using the starter then you should use the safety relay. If kick only then it can be removed.
Leo
i know its been a couple of weeks but i tested all my white wires they were all the same i think they were like .7 ohms then my rotor slip rings were 4.5 ohms after subtracting the leads only reading which was .1 ohms. took my brushes out and one of the springs was rusty and broke in two other was ok so im just gonna replace the brushed and hope that does it anything else i need to look for?
Your radings sound good.
Replacing the brushes is a good start. I might also clean the slip rings too. Removing the stator will let you get to the rotor for cleaning. Use very fine sand paper. Like 600 grit. Use rubbing alcohol to wipe of any sanding residue.
You didn't mention the year of your bike. On the 70-79 bikes the regulator and rectifier work a bit differently than the 80 bikes. The early had the reg before the rotor, later after the rotor.
The early, power was fed to the reg on the brown wire. with the key on the voltage on the brown wire should be the same as at the battery.
If the reg sences low voltage it turns on and sends power to the rotor on the green wire.
On the later the brown wire supplies power to both the reg and the rotor on the brown wire. When the reg sences low voltage and grounds the green wire.
The brown wire at the reg and the brushes needs to be the same as battery voltage. If more than about .2 to .3 volts less and the charging system won't be right.
Have you read through Curly's charging guide? It's linked in the XS650 tech section.
Leo
Replacing the brushes is a good start. I might also clean the slip rings too. Removing the stator will let you get to the rotor for cleaning. Use very fine sand paper. Like 600 grit. Use rubbing alcohol to wipe of any sanding residue.
You didn't mention the year of your bike. On the 70-79 bikes the regulator and rectifier work a bit differently than the 80 bikes. The early had the reg before the rotor, later after the rotor.
The early, power was fed to the reg on the brown wire. with the key on the voltage on the brown wire should be the same as at the battery.
If the reg sences low voltage it turns on and sends power to the rotor on the green wire.
On the later the brown wire supplies power to both the reg and the rotor on the brown wire. When the reg sences low voltage and grounds the green wire.
The brown wire at the reg and the brushes needs to be the same as battery voltage. If more than about .2 to .3 volts less and the charging system won't be right.
Have you read through Curly's charging guide? It's linked in the XS650 tech section.
Leo
mine is a 82 special And while i had it apart i did what you just said i cleaned the rotor and stator sanded em good and clean. as far as the brown wire it looks red but i have it hooked to the key switch is that correct? guy befor eme had it hooked straigh to the battery and wires going every where. I cut em all and got some wiring diagrams and put all new connectors and cleaned it up
In the stock wiring the brown wire to the reg/rec and the brushes got power after the switch. Your hooking that way is ok. Your po may have had low voltage at the brushes or reg/rec and the charging system wasn't working right. So intead of fixing it right he just hooked the brown wire to the battery.
The power from the battery flows out to the key switch then from there to the fuses, from the fuses to the reg/rec and brush. There are other connections in the wiring in there two. If any of these connections are dirty or just bad the voltage can be low at the brown wire.
Most often at the key switch or fuses. You can carefully take the key switch apart to clean it. At the fuses if your are still stock the clips that hold the round glass fuses get weak, this leads to corrosion at the fuses. The added resistance of the weak clips and corrosion creates heat, this heat compounds the weak clip and corrosion problem.
Replacing the stock fuse box with inline blade type modern fuses will remove this problem.
I would do the fuse upgrades, then check voltages along this power track. Start at the battery checking for voltages at the fuses and key switch. You can access the switch wiring in the headlight bucket.
Remove the head light and you can find the wires coming from the switch to a plug. The wires are red, brown and blue. The red is power from the battery. Brown is power out to most of the bike. Blue is power to the tail light.
Red should be the same as the battery. If not trace it back and find out where the problem is. If ok then check the voltage on the brown wire, it should be the same as the red wire, if not the contacts inside the switch need cleaning. The switch can be removed from the bike and taken apart and cleaned.
Once you get good voltage at the brown wire at the switch you should have good voltage at the reg/rec and brush. If not you can trace the brown wire till you find the problem.
Leo
The power from the battery flows out to the key switch then from there to the fuses, from the fuses to the reg/rec and brush. There are other connections in the wiring in there two. If any of these connections are dirty or just bad the voltage can be low at the brown wire.
Most often at the key switch or fuses. You can carefully take the key switch apart to clean it. At the fuses if your are still stock the clips that hold the round glass fuses get weak, this leads to corrosion at the fuses. The added resistance of the weak clips and corrosion creates heat, this heat compounds the weak clip and corrosion problem.
Replacing the stock fuse box with inline blade type modern fuses will remove this problem.
I would do the fuse upgrades, then check voltages along this power track. Start at the battery checking for voltages at the fuses and key switch. You can access the switch wiring in the headlight bucket.
Remove the head light and you can find the wires coming from the switch to a plug. The wires are red, brown and blue. The red is power from the battery. Brown is power out to most of the bike. Blue is power to the tail light.
Red should be the same as the battery. If not trace it back and find out where the problem is. If ok then check the voltage on the brown wire, it should be the same as the red wire, if not the contacts inside the switch need cleaning. The switch can be removed from the bike and taken apart and cleaned.
Once you get good voltage at the brown wire at the switch you should have good voltage at the reg/rec and brush. If not you can trace the brown wire till you find the problem.
Leo
