Stiff Shift

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rmclaughlin

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1979 XS650 Special. Hey all. Been a while. Im right at the end of my cafe build after 3 years. Everything is perfect except the clutch. What I have changed: Single pushrod Mikesxs. 6 New clutch plates OEM Japanese type Mikesxs. Did not replace the spacers. New Springs Mikesxs. New 4' shortened cable from motion pro. The symptoms are: 1. I have to tighten the clutch cable all the way to get the clutch to disengage( I don't think I have a ball bearing at the end where the rod engages the clutch) The notes on how many ball bearings is vague with the single push rod. The pull on the lever was the same with a stock length cable. 2. Shifting between gears is VERY difficult. I have read that these clutches are tricky but I feel like Im going sprain my ankle up and down shifting. I'm assuming it shouldn't be this difficult. Could it be a shift shaft adjustment? I just ordered the two springs for the right case from MXS just in case they have weakened. Could it be the shift shaft itself? So close to the end. Thanks for any advice in advance.
 
I see you have rearsets. The lever attached to the shift shaft looks very short. That may be what's causing the stiff shifting, you have no leverage. If you still have a stock shift lever around, you might try installing that to see if the shifting problem clears up. Also, best leverage would be achieved with the linkage at 90° to the shift lever. I can't tell for sure from your pic if yours is.
 
You do need the ball inside the worm gear. I've found many aftermarket clutch perches just don't have the right leverage to pull the XS clutch through the needed range with reasonable effort.
Cable routing is a big deal with that short of bars the cable should route on the RH side of the tank at the triples. Few, gentle bends in the cable. High quality cable lube, 5twins mentioned STP oil additive as a lube, there are others like lucas that claim super low stiction.
 
In the clutch pushrod "stack" of components, anywhere 2 rods meet, a ball is required. The little valve shaped pusher piece on the clutch end and the short adjuster screw in the worm can be considered rods in this scenario. So, starting at the clutch end, you will have the little valve shaped pusher, a ball, the long pushrod, another ball, and lastly the worm adjuster screw. That makes for a total of 2 balls in the assembly when using the long pushrod. If you still had the 2 piece pushrod set-up, there would be a 3rd ball between those 2 rods.
 
Hey 5Twins. Here is a photo that shows the rear set at a better angle. They are actually a little back of 90. Cognito Moto did an xs650 with the same rear sets and they look to be dead on 90. Should I shorten them possibly? Any other suggestions?
cognito-moto-yamaha-xs650-1-625x417.jpg
cognito-moto-yamaha-xs650-1-625x417.jpg
IMG_1422.JPG
 
gggGary said:
You do need the ball inside the worm gear. I've found many aftermarket clutch perches just don't have the right leverage to pull the XS clutch through the needed range with reasonable effort.
Cable routing is a big deal with that short of bars the cable should route on the RH side of the tank at the triples. Few, gentle bends in the cable. High quality cable lube, 5twins mentioned STP oil additive as a lube, there are others like lucas that claim super low stiction.
Click to expand...

Thank you
 
The arms on the shift shaft and the rear set should be parallel. Adjust till they are.
IMG_1422.JPG
 
Did it feel better after adjusting the rear sets? I had the same issue when I went from stock to rearsets, a few adjustments and they feel very good now. Same for the rear brake, took some adjusting and getting used to it.
 
Feels much better after making them both 90 degrees. I took the whole clutch apart, removed the shift shaft, perfectly straight, 1 piece push rod, 9 9/16", barring on the end and in the worm gear. Clutch still wont disengage unless the adjustment at the lever is all the way out. No play in the handle. I just can't figure this out. Would a higher perched clutch lever help? Im using new clutch friction plates from Mikesxs. The OEM japanese ones at 3mm. Any recommendations would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
5twins said:
That makes for a total of 2 balls in the assembly when using the long pushrod.
Click to expand...
As 5Twins said You need 2 ball bearings in that clutch rod not just one.... and it sounds like your just a small amount short...
so add another ball bearing and try it !
......i believe the clutch push rod can come out and you can put the ball bearing in then slide the pushrod back in and keep the one in the Worm....
Bob.......
 
No, only one at each end. The parts drawing doesn't show the one in the worm, probably because it's considered part of that "assembly" .....

6XObL4B.jpg
 
keep an eye on mikes 1 piece push rod. There have been reports the end is not all that hard and wears fairly fast..........
 
No, but N.O.S. originals are readily available on eBay for the same cost (or less) than Mike's poor copy. Here's what mine looked like after 10K miles, ready to start shedding metal bits. I'll never buy another from them .....

iUDEG9e.jpg


Others report no problems with their MikesXS long rod. Obviously mine didn't get hardened. But how's one to know that when ordering? It's a gamble buying this and many of the other parts they sell because they practice pretty much ZERO quality control.
 
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