pregrid
XS650 Guru
I think your uncle was probably riding a British bike
. Beautiful work by the way. Looking forward to more!
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I think your uncle was probably riding a British bike
. Beautiful work by the way. Looking forward to more!
Street Tracker: Yes they are Super Trapp’s I bought them from Dennis Kirk. The pipes and mufflers are ceramic coated aluminium colour. I thought about just painting them black but in the past on other bikes I seemed to be forever taking them off and repainting them. The ceramic coating is not cheap but is supposed to be permanent.
Pregrid: I enjoyed watching your tracker go together immensely; your thread encouraged me to start this one. Yes my uncles’ bikes definitely were British, but thinking back to my experiences with a tired old 73 Bonneville it would have been more like 20:1.
Pregrid: I enjoyed watching your tracker go together immensely; your thread encouraged me to start this one. Yes my uncles’ bikes definitely were British, but thinking back to my experiences with a tired old 73 Bonneville it would have been more like 20:1.
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pregrid
XS650 Guru
wherearewe
Rub on Ya Titties
That triple runs game. Nice job.
racerdave
^ Gone not forgotten ^
I'm guessing that in New Zealand that means 'it's cool"?
Wherearewe, Hot Dog and Racer Dave Thanks for looking in and the positive comments.
Hot Dog: Just to clarify the mufflers are made by Super Trapp and I bought then from Dennis Kirk, which is a large retail outfit in the US. I have bought of DK twice now and they are easy to deal with but shipping is horrendous.
https://www.denniskirk.com/search/supertrapp+muffler.q/40.ipp
Show and go are Aussie agents but they are certainly not giving them away!
http://www.showandgo.com.au/Supertrapp/Supertrapp.htm?Supertrapp_bf.htm~mainFrame
The headers I put together with ideas stolen from anyone and everyone.
Racer Dave: "Runs the game"was a new one on me too, but I will take it as a compliment.
Not much done since last post had to order the cap screws for the front disc and calliper adaptor plate but I did get the back brake bled.
Hot Dog: Just to clarify the mufflers are made by Super Trapp and I bought then from Dennis Kirk, which is a large retail outfit in the US. I have bought of DK twice now and they are easy to deal with but shipping is horrendous.
https://www.denniskirk.com/search/supertrapp+muffler.q/40.ipp
Show and go are Aussie agents but they are certainly not giving them away!
http://www.showandgo.com.au/Supertrapp/Supertrapp.htm?Supertrapp_bf.htm~mainFrame
The headers I put together with ideas stolen from anyone and everyone.
Racer Dave: "Runs the game"was a new one on me too, but I will take it as a compliment.
Not much done since last post had to order the cap screws for the front disc and calliper adaptor plate but I did get the back brake bled.
Thanks for the info, my hat goes off to you - I thought the system was a complete set up.
Any details you could enlighten me with about your header specs..? I've been practicing a fair bit with the Tig lately, I'm going to build my own headers....did you utilize one of the available kits or purchase bends as required..?
Any details you could enlighten me with about your header specs..? I've been practicing a fair bit with the Tig lately, I'm going to build my own headers....did you utilize one of the available kits or purchase bends as required..?
wherearewe
Rub on Ya Titties
Hot Dog: For the headers I bought U bends, straight pipe and a doughnut from the exhaust centre in town and cut them up and welded them together. I borrowed a cut off saw, it is faster and you always get a square cut. Also used a MIG to tack them together and then finished with a TIG.
I had a mandrel turned and then got smaller pipe pressed on it to make some anti-reversion inserts. They were then tidied up in a lathe. The 20 ton press I have was not up to the job so this work was done at a local machine shop.
The machine shop also turned some round flanges that slid over the fork tube and inside the head for the clamps to butt up to. You will soon work out what I mean when you start on your pipes.
To make the torque peak optimisers some smaller pipe was cut to length and flared out in the machine at the exhaust centre then welded in the ends of the pipes.
The heat shield is some 6mm reinforcing bar that I had in the shed; I don't think they will work that well, probably just reduce the size of the burn on your leg.
The Aussie XS 650 club website has details about diameters lengths of headers etc., but for tried and tested pipe designs go to 650 Central and buy the Engine modification guide. That publication has dyno comparisons, pipe diameters really everything you want to know.
http://650central.com/
The next set of pipes I make will use spigots in the exhaust ports with the pipes sliding over them held in place by springs. Like some of the Superbikes do, it would make it a lot easier to work on the bike.
Good luck with your pipe building.
I had a mandrel turned and then got smaller pipe pressed on it to make some anti-reversion inserts. They were then tidied up in a lathe. The 20 ton press I have was not up to the job so this work was done at a local machine shop.
The machine shop also turned some round flanges that slid over the fork tube and inside the head for the clamps to butt up to. You will soon work out what I mean when you start on your pipes.
To make the torque peak optimisers some smaller pipe was cut to length and flared out in the machine at the exhaust centre then welded in the ends of the pipes.
The heat shield is some 6mm reinforcing bar that I had in the shed; I don't think they will work that well, probably just reduce the size of the burn on your leg.
The Aussie XS 650 club website has details about diameters lengths of headers etc., but for tried and tested pipe designs go to 650 Central and buy the Engine modification guide. That publication has dyno comparisons, pipe diameters really everything you want to know.
http://650central.com/
The next set of pipes I make will use spigots in the exhaust ports with the pipes sliding over them held in place by springs. Like some of the Superbikes do, it would make it a lot easier to work on the bike.
Good luck with your pipe building.
Attachments
racerdave
^ Gone not forgotten ^
Very nice pipes signal. I like the spigot/spring setup. Very racey.
Thanks signal for the details, I have been a previous member of the oz 650 club & have purchased the performance guide from Craig.
Currently I am working through building my 750 LR engine & am always interested in what others are doing with their cycles. I have always liked the supertrapp mufflers & am tossing up wether to go with them or build/buy a real mega system with a muffler piggybacked onto it, similar to this one built by hoffman900....so many things to do.......
Currently I am working through building my 750 LR engine & am always interested in what others are doing with their cycles. I have always liked the supertrapp mufflers & am tossing up wether to go with them or build/buy a real mega system with a muffler piggybacked onto it, similar to this one built by hoffman900....so many things to do.......
hoffman900
XS650 Addict
I'd recommend getting PipeMax in regards to exhaust specs (most notably the header design and total length). Megaphone is a bit more of a black art, but you can use this as a guide: http://victorylibrary.com/brit/mega-c.htm (about half way down... it goes over the 'Blair' method).
I think a 750cc XS motor would really respond well to a 1.625"od header stepping up to a 1.75" od primary before the megaphone. I know the SR motors really liked it (vs. a 1.75" od header), and they displace more per cylinder and rev just as high. The spigot is great since it removes the ledge at the port. Mine tapers out from the port diameter to the id of a .040" thick 1.625"od pipe, over about 1.5".
Take a look at Richard Pollock's XS650s trackers, and you'll see a stepped header.
The cool thing about a real meg set-up is standing behind it. It feels like an air canon which you can feel from about 8' from behind the bike. It also sounds really deep and boomy.
I'd recommend getting PipeMax in regards to exhaust specs (most notably the header design and total length). Megaphone is a bit more of a black art, but you can use this as a guide: http://victorylibrary.com/brit/mega-c.htm (about half way down... it goes over the 'Blair' method).
I think a 750cc XS motor would really respond well to a 1.625"od header stepping up to a 1.75" od primary before the megaphone. I know the SR motors really liked it (vs. a 1.75" od header), and they displace more per cylinder and rev just as high. The spigot is great since it removes the ledge at the port. Mine tapers out from the port diameter to the id of a .040" thick 1.625"od pipe, over about 1.5".
Take a look at Richard Pollock's XS650s trackers, and you'll see a stepped header.
The cool thing about a real meg set-up is standing behind it. It feels like an air canon which you can feel from about 8' from behind the bike. It also sounds really deep and boomy.
Sorry we're sort of stealing this thread signal - I'll reply & if it needs to be discussed further we can do that elsewhere.
I have purchased a copy of pipemax & also have Blairs book - Design & simulation of four stroke engines....HEAVY reading, above my level - maybe....but its an interest.
I just need time & better parts availability to pursue some things further...
Hoffman and Hotdog it's good to share ideas it raises everybody's level (hopefully).
Been doing those fiddly jobs that eat up hours and have very little to show for them. Trimming those dreadful Athena gaskets is one.
Got the front brake clearance issue sorted, had to machine a bit off the fork as well and relieve the brake pads slightly to clear the rotor buttons. Still need to glue the magnet into a little holder to trigger the Vapour speedo unit.
Made a gear selector shaft bush (another one of Goran Pearson's ideas).
Fitted the oil filter and cooler it was a bit fiddly getting the lines right and I had to walk away at one stage. I am not entirely happy with the exit pipe from the motor it looks very vulnerable to road rash, I may rework this at some stage.
The oil cooler is overkill for our climate so I am not too worried about the air flow disruption to the head. The Vapour unit has a temp sensor that I have fixed under one of the top oil pipe bolts so the oil temp can be monitored to some extent.
Put the clutch in. The case and clutch basket have a few mods:
Roller bearings on the kick start shaft (an Ivan Hoey mod).
High ratio primary gears, a work around for the limited selection of rear sprockets with motard wheels. You have to relieve the case a bit for them to fit
Cush drive spring mod (XS 650 club of Australia)
High output oil pump, probably not necessary.
Oil galleries altered to route oil through external filter and cooler.
Tacho drive plugged, going to use an electronic one
Return from breather condensate tank.
After the cover was on fitted the rear brake and kick start levers then the foot peg. Made up some Ali washers for the foot pegs. Later I may make up some different foot pegs and put these ones on my Road XS.
Put the headlights and indicators on and started wiring the rear lights and indicators. The plan is to have the rear ones on one plug to facilitate fast removal. The relays in the headlights are for high low beam selection, they are held in with RTV which looks a bit rough but it does the job and it's not seen.
Put the side stand on, it's a ZXR 250 one that the moths have been at.
Fitted a decompressor from an earlier XS to help with starting, although the compression is fairly modest at this stage. The chain is an old one fitted so I could use the rear brake to hold the shaft when tightening the clutch up.
Next on the list is get stuck into the wiring, then fit the front mudguard and fork brace.
At some stage soon I will have to fit the handle bars, I am holding off doing this because I always bang my head on the dam things when the bike is on the bench.
Been doing those fiddly jobs that eat up hours and have very little to show for them. Trimming those dreadful Athena gaskets is one.
Got the front brake clearance issue sorted, had to machine a bit off the fork as well and relieve the brake pads slightly to clear the rotor buttons. Still need to glue the magnet into a little holder to trigger the Vapour speedo unit.
Made a gear selector shaft bush (another one of Goran Pearson's ideas).
Fitted the oil filter and cooler it was a bit fiddly getting the lines right and I had to walk away at one stage. I am not entirely happy with the exit pipe from the motor it looks very vulnerable to road rash, I may rework this at some stage.
The oil cooler is overkill for our climate so I am not too worried about the air flow disruption to the head. The Vapour unit has a temp sensor that I have fixed under one of the top oil pipe bolts so the oil temp can be monitored to some extent.
Put the clutch in. The case and clutch basket have a few mods:
Roller bearings on the kick start shaft (an Ivan Hoey mod).
High ratio primary gears, a work around for the limited selection of rear sprockets with motard wheels. You have to relieve the case a bit for them to fit
Cush drive spring mod (XS 650 club of Australia)
High output oil pump, probably not necessary.
Oil galleries altered to route oil through external filter and cooler.
Tacho drive plugged, going to use an electronic one
Return from breather condensate tank.
After the cover was on fitted the rear brake and kick start levers then the foot peg. Made up some Ali washers for the foot pegs. Later I may make up some different foot pegs and put these ones on my Road XS.
Put the headlights and indicators on and started wiring the rear lights and indicators. The plan is to have the rear ones on one plug to facilitate fast removal. The relays in the headlights are for high low beam selection, they are held in with RTV which looks a bit rough but it does the job and it's not seen.
Put the side stand on, it's a ZXR 250 one that the moths have been at.
Fitted a decompressor from an earlier XS to help with starting, although the compression is fairly modest at this stage. The chain is an old one fitted so I could use the rear brake to hold the shaft when tightening the clutch up.
Next on the list is get stuck into the wiring, then fit the front mudguard and fork brace.
At some stage soon I will have to fit the handle bars, I am holding off doing this because I always bang my head on the dam things when the bike is on the bench.
Attachments
wherearewe
Rub on Ya Titties
Where abouts in NZ are you signal? There's a only a handful of kiwis on here.
Would you be able to detail roller bearing kick start mod & the selector shaft mod?
Would you be able to detail roller bearing kick start mod & the selector shaft mod?
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Limpy
XS650 Enthusiast
From NZ to NorCal... Back on 8-3 you posted some shots with a couple on your electrical system. I wrote on 8-4 that I would be watching and that the way you set up the tray made me think.
So here is credit where it is due, I have attached a couple of shots of my electrical for my 1980SG, should look a bit familiar! I was not sure how to attach it then saw you used the original rubber mounts so I did the same. So thanks from a first time builder on the other side of the world! Cheers!
So here is credit where it is due, I have attached a couple of shots of my electrical for my 1980SG, should look a bit familiar! I was not sure how to attach it then saw you used the original rubber mounts so I did the same. So thanks from a first time builder on the other side of the world! Cheers!
Attachments
Hi Limpy, Thanks glad to be of some help. The idea for mounting the tray is not mine; I just picked it up and ran with it. I saw it used first on Terry Gliddon’s tracker.http://www.xs650.org.au/Garage Scene/garage scene I.htm about half way down the page. Don't forget to earth it.
Wherearewe, there are a few Kiwis on here, some live out of NZ.
Shift shaft bush details are on this site. I last heard that Goran Perrson lives in NZ; he posted the details on the XS 650 club of Australia website. Then INXS posted them here.http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=511&page=2
Ivan Hoey supplied the information on the kick start bearings. The cases need to be bored as the shaft is on bushes from the factory. Like most of the stuff I have done on this bike it is not necessary, but if you if you want to do it go for it.
The bearing numbers are crankcase HK2016, side-cover HK2516 IKO TLA2516Z.
The outer kick start shaft seal numbers 25 35 7-2 CC 253507.
These were bought over the counter at a bearing supplies store.
Wherearewe, there are a few Kiwis on here, some live out of NZ.
Shift shaft bush details are on this site. I last heard that Goran Perrson lives in NZ; he posted the details on the XS 650 club of Australia website. Then INXS posted them here.http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=511&page=2
Ivan Hoey supplied the information on the kick start bearings. The cases need to be bored as the shaft is on bushes from the factory. Like most of the stuff I have done on this bike it is not necessary, but if you if you want to do it go for it.
The bearing numbers are crankcase HK2016, side-cover HK2516 IKO TLA2516Z.
The outer kick start shaft seal numbers 25 35 7-2 CC 253507.
These were bought over the counter at a bearing supplies store.
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wherearewe
Rub on Ya Titties
Thanks mate. I'm enjoying watching this build come together
