Gary's junkyard tracker build up.

gggGary

If not now, When?
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Some may recall I "found" a chro/moly tracker frame last fall.
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Weighs 17 pounds compared to a stock frame's 49 pounds but it is "a work in progress"
I got a mock up engine stuck together to see what this is going to take.... this is going to stretch my talents and then some. Just about everything needs to be "built special" So this is the progress, issues, and results of a first mock up. I hacked up a stock swing arm to fit around the center tube to see how it and the engine will fit in there.
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I put the engine on the lower and upper back mounts and found my first issues. It is VERY tight to the swing arm pivot I had to cut away the tab quite a bit to get it in. Then I went to mount up a set of carbs. No joy, I could not get them in, they were hitting the back bone. I grabbed an early set of 38s and they made it in but just.
Then I tried a set of Kerkers I have which are light and tuck in very tightly. They were hitting the front tube and would not align correctly. Then the light bulb came on. There is no lower mount yet and no bracket between the front engine and frame mounts. I pulled the top mount which let the engine swing forward about 10 degrees. AHA that was it.
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I will need to fab longer top back brackets. the front frame - engine mounts now line up better, the exhaust clears the frame and there is more room between the case and the swing arm.

That is a Knight tank and seat. There will be some fitting issues but nothing major, the engine swinging forward allowed room for the petcocks also.

Next is the Steering neck. Oh boy, the race bores are 50mm top and bottom. which fit no roller bearing I could find. Stockers are 48mm I may have found a fleabay fix but will have to wait for it to get here. The neck is short like the early triples. It has a cool internal fork stop welded in but it hits the large XS stem tube. :banghead: So I guess that has to go. Next up is forks, I mounted up set of 76 forks I had and was scratching my head cause the bike was sitting up so high. Oops they have 4" over tubes. So I am thinking either a set of XS750 forks with dual disks or a set of Late model XS650 forks with a mikes rotor and cartridge emulators. I scored a set of tapered bars and risers and like how those look. They are jsut sitting on a triple on top of the forks on the bike
Wire wheels. If I keep the kirker it looks like I will have to section out a few inches from the middle cause this frame is shorter. I want to get to a reverse cone "dunstall look" type muffler. The swing arm will probably have to be a complete fab up, I am thinking that through now. Those shocks are junkers but I like the looks of the remote gas shocks.

Feel free to chime in with hints, tips, suggestions or :wtf: :D
 
there,s a guy in melbourne ,,,around ringwood,,, from memory,, that has a chro/moly xs650 frame ,,,, which he uese successfully on the track but apparently they are suspect to cracks,,, as he has had with his frame apparently there are only 2 moly frame in aussie,,, that the aussie guys know about regards oldbiker
 
Looks like a short track frame. You gonna race this, cause it'll def be a handful on the street at speed. Cool start, tho, man after my own heart!!:thumbsup:
 
Looks like a short track frame. You gonna race this, cause it'll def be a handful on the street at speed.:thumbsup:
I think so, a lot of our local "short track" is done on frozen lakes... I put a set of 12" eye to eye shocks on and am still debating what set of forks to use. may keep the forks fairly long to help stretch the steering angle. Street for me but I may have to be selective about speed. I have done handlebar whippers and don't want to review that again. Swing arm length is an issue too the pivot is 2" forward of the stock location
 
I have the front end decided on. I am stoked a lot of stuff fell together today like this was destined to be!

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The forks and brakes are off a 2001 SV650 the wire wheel is as near to a bolt in as can be imagined. The rotors are 5 bolt so they will need to be drilled to a 6 bolt pattern. I am considering welding the old holes shut but haven't decided for sure yet. They have the same center bore as the XS650 wheel's flange. I will need to make wheel spacers so the wheel centers properly in the forks but that is simple. The axle is the same diameter. the XS650 wheel flanges are 7mm closer together than those on the SV650 wheel so I will space the calipers in 3.5mm each. The SV650 calipers have just 2 outer pistons each, no inner pistons so they clear the spokes by a mile! The steering stem matches this frame (same length as early XS650). The frame had 50mm race cups which matched NO bearings I could find BUT I found a set of 50mm Timkin outer races on fleabay and they fit a set of Xs650 tapered roller bearings perfectly. The stem on the SV650 is a smaller diameter so it clears the internal fork stop on the frame so that works out excellent also! Wow this is so cool. Well I guess you tell I am excited. The wheels are the one year only alloy 19" 16" special II set. I like the fatter rear tire that the 16" rear carries and it helps keep the rear down while the 19" front helps extend the effective length of the SV forks. I put a pair of 12 1/2" shocks on also so all that together helps kick out the rake some. The SV triples have a shallow offset so that lengthens trail a bit. It will be interesting to see how this handles. The tapered bars and risers bolt to the triples. I will just need to drill out the mounting holes a bit. I am hoping I can get R done for Slimy Crud in October. But whooshi swooshi there's a lot to do.
 
I thought the sv used clip ons? Did you have to enlarge holes that where already there for the risers? Or drill new holes in the top clamp?
 
Sidestand, Watco oil and hand rub.

Forks were off a Naked SV650 with normal handle bars, just had to open up the existing riser holes.
 
Hi Gary, I am also using the front end off a 01 SV but I have an 81 special frame.

One problem I encountered was the stroke of the SV fork is 120mm. The SV triple clamps (top & bottom) gave insufficient clearance between the slider and the lower triple clamp when the fork is at full compression.

You have a race frame so it might not be a problem but a quick measure now (if you haven’t already done so) might save you some of the issues I am now addressing.

I am also using an Omar’s tank and the 41mm fork tube / tank clearance reduces the usable steering lock a fair bit. Looking at your photos this will not be a problem on you set up.

I hope this information is helpful if not to you then someone else.
 
Signal; I'll check the fork clearance but wonder why you ran out of room, did you slide the tubes up in the triples? How did you deal with the "short" steering stem?
 
Gary; Yes I did slide the tubes up and tried to use the flat SV top clamp.
So far as the steering stem I had a new one machined. It is a little bit too long but it’s cheaper to shorten things than start again.

I still have a rough drawing of it and if it is any help to you I will try and post the drawing.

At the moment my plan is to make some new triple clamps.
The top clamp will have a step down like the XS one and both will have an off set to give more steering lock/ tank clearance.

My next job is to work out how much off set I can have and still have an acceptable amount of trail. I don’t want something that looks the goods but handles like a shopping trolley!
 
I am not using the SV fender and didn't have to lengthen the stem so I think I am good to go. I did the rotors yesterday. they were 5 bolt the Yamaha wheel is 6 bolt on a slightly smaller bolt circle. the center bore is the same. The following is not for the faint of heart, some may wish to leave the room now. I grabbed the MIG and filled the bolt holes in the rotor with weld and ground them flush front and rear. I removed the tire from the Suzuki wheel slipped the Suzuki rotor on dish down, put a Yamaha rotor on top and drilled through, after the first hole I bolted the two rotors together to maintain alignment and drilled the rest of the holes. Looks good so far I'll have to bolt it on a bike, ride it and see if the rotors are straight!
 
Looks great so far! If it feels twitchy, a longer swingarm may calm things down. You're going to like those Tokico brakes and the SV front end; it's a badly damped, undersprung bargain-basement mess out of the box, but the forks are nice and stiff and do a great job once emulators, decent springs, and 15W fork oil are in place; Race-Tech's recipe for spring selection put mine right on the money.
 
grizld1 got any names on the springs/emulators? I did get to thinking; I wonder how well this spoked wheel will deal with the braking forces this set up will generate? It will be a light bike and I am 170 pounds, but still... Guess I better tighten and tune the spokes. Wonder how one of the new 110/80 19 naked superbike tires would work on the rim?
 
Because preload springs in knockoff emulators are dubious items and their rate is critical, IMO it's a bad idea to cheap out on that stuff. Race-Tech is IMO the best source for both springs and emulators; just follow the application guide and their calculator for fork spring rate on their site. Paul Thede gives away a lot of excellent free advice and maintains a fine tech support operation, so I didn't mind spending a little more to support him.

Re. tires, I don't know what you're running for a rim up front. If it's a 1.85 you might get away with an OK profile with a 110, but that would be pushing it. You might consider mounting a 2.15.

Re. brakes and spokes, I don't think you have anything to worry about unless you decide to do "stoppies" on a daily basis. Those two-piston single action calipers do a very nice job, but they're nowhere near as aggressive as 4-pot double action binders.
 
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