Swingarm question

[jdizon]

Installed bronze bushings and new pivot collar (cylinder) that fits through the bushings. Does the cylinder suppose to move freely in the bushing? I had to press the cylinder through the bushing and it is on pretty tight. Problem I'm having is that the pivot shaft doesn't seem to fit and slide into the cylinder without force. Anyone run across this problem? Next thing is to try using different grease and see if it helps

 

[jmink427]

I would think that the cylinder (sleeve) should tighten up in the frame when tighten up.... And the bushings should move freely around the sleeve... Bushings should be press fit in the swing arm.. You may have to ream the bushings back to size, because the i.d. of the bushings will shrink from the compression of being installed... I would think about .003" clearance... pics?

 

[jdizon]

The cylinder freely moved around the bushing before the install. The compression of being installed killed any movement oft the bushing and sleeve. Both are pretty much stuck together Now if I need to get the bushings reamed I'd have to remove the cylinder back out. Pretty sure its not going to slide out and I'll probably will need to get a new one after I bang the shit out. What if I reamed the cylinder instead so i don't have to take it out?

I would think that the cylinder (sleeve) should tighten up in the frame when tighten up.... And the bushings should move freely around the sleeve... Bushings should be press fit in the swing arm.. You may have to ream the bushings back to size, because the i.d. of the bushings will shrink from the compression of being installed... I would think about .003" clearance... pics?

 

[gggGary]

Did the cylinder fit in the bushings before they were installed? Was the swing arm painted or powder coated? If so did you remove the overspray from inside the bore where the bushings go?

This thread covers most swing arm bushing questions.

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2887

C

 

[gggGary]

Cross post no the cylinder needs to turn in the bushings it should be no more than a firm push fit no pressing or beating in required or wanted.

 

[5twins]

No, that won't do. Once installed and if operating properly, the sleeve should be clamped tight (and not rotate) between the frame at both ends. The sleeve and pivot bolt do not move once installed. The swingarm w/bushings should rotate on the stationary sleeve and pivot bolt.

 

[jdizon]

Thanks I'll check out that thread but to answer your question the cylinder fit the bushing before they were installed and moved around freely. swingarm was powdercoated but no powder inside or outer edges. I froze the bushings to get them in and used a mallet to get the cylinder in.

Did the cylinder fit in the bushings before they were installed? Was the swing arm painted or powder coated? If so did you remove the overspray from inside the bore where the bushings go?

This thread covers most swing arm bushing questions.

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2887

C

 

[jdizon]

So to confirm. I will need to get the cylinder back out and have the bronze bushings reamed so the cylinder can freely rotate?

 

[5twins]

Yes, you may be able to do it yourself with some 400 paper wrapped around a suitably sized piece of pipe.

 

[jdizon]

Thanks man I'll try this first.

Yes, you may be able to do it yourself with some 400 paper wrapped around a suitably sized piece of pipe.

 

[jmink427]

No, that won't do. Once installed and if operating properly, the sleeve should be clamped tight (and not rotate) between the frame at both ends. The sleeve and pivot bolt do not move once installed. The swingarm w/bushings should rotate on the stationary sleeve and pivot bolt.

^^^^This^^^^ When you get the sleeve out you can use a die gringer and emery cloth... if your collet is 1/4" take a piece of 1/4" round stock about 4" and take a hack saw and split it about 3/4" of an inch then put a piece of emery cloth folded in half in the split and put it in th die ginder and you can ream the bushings this way just take a little at a time till you can slide the cylinder in and a out with very little force...

 

[jdizon]

Thanks! swingarm bikes are such a pain! no wonder why the hardtail was invented

^^^^This^^^^ When you get the sleeve out you can use a die gringer and emery cloth... if your collet is 1/4" take a piece of 1/4" round stock about 4" and take a hack saw and split it about 3/4" of an inch then put a piece of emery cloth folded in half in the split and put it in th die ginder and you can ream the bushings this way just take a little at a time till you can slide the cylinder in and a out with very little force...

 

[gggGary]

More like some aftermarket bronze bushing peddler didn't hold his parts to correct tolerances.

 

[jdizon]

That peddler would be Mikexs. I just googled and it seams everyone that has bought the bronze bushing from them have had to had them reamed.

More like some aftermarket bronze bushing peddler didn't hold his parts to correct tolerances.

 

[gggGary]

So you will have been reamed twice on this project, joy, joy.

 

[jdizon]

LOL Waiting for someone to use it like that

So you will have been reamed twice on this project, joy, joy.

 

[grizld1]

jdizon, your fitment problem isn't at all unusual. Bronze bushings, whether they're the replacements from Yamaha or aftermarket units, are going to have thicker flanges than the OE nylon bushings. The inner bushing (cylinder) needs to protrude past the flanges of the bronze outer bushings to keep from locking up the swingarm when the axle nut is torqued down, and the extra thickness often eliminates that clearance.

Here's what to do. With a 12" caliper, measure the inner bushing length. Subtract .008" from that number; that's the distance you need between outer bushing flanges to provide .008" of clearance. Measure the distance between the outer bushing flanges and subtract the needed distance. That's the amount of material you need to remove to recover clearance. Remove the outer bushings and remove half that amount from each end of the swingarm with a mill file, measuring with the caliper as you work.

 

[jdizon]

Thanks for the detailed instructions! I appreciate it. Man.. I didn't realize this upgrade was this involved

jdizon, your fitment problem isn't at all unusual. Bronze bushings, whether they're the replacements from Yamaha or aftermarket units, are going to have thicker flanges than the OE nylon bushings. The inner bushing (cylinder) needs to protrude past the flanges of the bronze outer bushings to keep from locking up the swingarm when the axle nut is torqued down, and the extra thickness often eliminates that clearance.

Here's what to do. With a 12" caliper, measure the inner bushing length. Subtract .008" from that number; that's the distance you need between outer bushing flanges to provide .008" of clearance. Measure the distance between the outer bushing flanges and subtract the needed distance. That's the amount of material you need to remove to recover clearance. Remove the outer bushings and remove half that amount from each end of the swingarm with a mill file, measuring with the caliper as you work.

 

[XSLeo]

I got my first bushings from Mike's. They fit great without any boring.
The pivot tube was a firm slip fit.
Leo

 

[5twins]

I guess it depends on the production run and/or supplier. I got mine several years ago from Mike's and they fit fine too. And I wasn't easy on the install either - I bashed them in with a BFH, lol. However, there's a thing called "quality control", a term seemingly unbeknownst to MikesXS.