Folks, we have two issues here. First: inner bushing (AKA pivot tube) fitment in the outer bushing. Sometimes a little touch-up is needed after installation; it's seldom anything that a light touch with a paper roll won't cure. Second: outer bushing clearance from the thrust covers (AKA grease seals). The swingarm axle is a pinch bolt, and it pulls the frame and thrust covers tight against the inner bushing. If there's not a bit of side clearance between the thrust covers and the outer bushings the outer bushings will be pinched as well. Too many guys tighten the swingarm axle nut until action of the swingarm starts to get stiff, then apply the lock washer and call it good; but if the swingarm axle nut isn't torqued down firmly (latest manual spec is 47 footpounds), frame flex will result. And yeah, I know about the needle bearing kits with the thrust bearings that won't take more than 30 footpounds--that's why I don't use them anymore.
Bear in mind that tolerances at the factory were so loosey-goosey that some swingarms were produced with so much side play that shims had to be installed at the factory to bring side play under the max limit of .020", so sometimes you'll get a swingarm that will allow adequate end clearance for the inner bushing after bronze outer bushings are installed, and sometimes not (inner bushing end clearance=side play). The best way to know what's going to happen is to measure before installing the outer bushings in the swingarm--add flange thicknesses to swingarm pivot width and compare to the length of the inner bushing.