Tank sealer

brady

XS650 Addict
Messages
106
Reaction score
1
Points
18
Location
Alexandria VA
So I used kreem tank sealer, and after sitting with fuel in for 4 months its was rusty and the kreem was peeling. I have read nothing but bad about that stuff now.

Anyways, im going to be using por 15 once I get all the kreem out.
But when sealing it do I do the gas cap and the petcock threads on the tank?
I can just see it lifting/chipping it when I screw the cap/petcock in.... but I don't want exposed metal.
 
Personally I wouldn't seal it unless I was storing salt water inside. Most fuel tanks have no sealer and are better off without it. Cheers
 
I'm kinda in the same boat. I used red kote my first go around and don't think I did it properly. If you don't use sealer do you have to keep it full all the time? I have multiple bikes and sometimes one will sit for a few months at a time.
 
If you are going to seal your tank I feel Caswells Tank Sealer is the best. I have used it on many tanks and never a problem, it has lasted over 8 years some tanks I have had. It is probably more expensive that the others but it works. tim
 
Last edited:
If any of your bikes are going to sit, Turn your petcocks to off and let the bike idle till fuel is used in the carb bowls. Remove your tank and drain it. I then pour mixture of light oil and gasoline in the tank or store it in a warm dry place until it is used again.

Posted via Mobile
 
I use red kote all the time,clean the tank with mek then seal it twice, kreem sucks bad
i used it on a new tank as directed and it peeled in two week,the red kote is very good,have used on 5 or 6 tanks and with no problem a fuel tank with STA-BIL works great for storage.
 
I have also used the Caswell epoxy sealer. I've done two tanks now with good results. Both tanks had leaks so they needed either a sealer or some metal work done. Wanting the paint on each to remain intact, I chose sealer.

One thing I don't like about it is I have no idea what I would do if it failed(by either chemical or mechanical means). Ie, how does one remove it to be able to reseal? On that point I think the Redkote has a big plus. If the Redkote does fail, it is readily removed via solvent and one can start the prep/clean/seal process over. I think I read the POR15 product is also solvent removable.

Ken
 
I think MEK will remove the caswell also but not sure I use the red kote and a lot of custom builders I talk to do allso ( that how I learned about it and how to use it you should coat twice.
 
Prep is key, nothing sticks to fuel varnish....for long. A long cure time before the fuel goes in.
 
Back
Top