tc bros axle spacer...

cobrasneverdie

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k so I did some research, I found a guy who had the same problem as me but he didn't reply to the thread.
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I got a roll of coins happening. I tried to put the spacer but I didn't have enough clearance. Anyone know what a good tactic here is...?

also when I tighten up the bolt, the whole thing axle turns on the other side now I can't tighten good enough to hold the wheel in place (goes forwards and backwards):banghead:
 
Hi, I had a similar issue but not to that extent. I got a bottle jack and a short length of wood and spread the rear GENTLY apart and then checked for true after each "stretch"
Worked out fine. The reason you cant tighten it properly, is because you are hitting the end of the threaded section on the axle itself.
Two options are open to you:
1. Carry out the procedure described above
2. Machine a new spacer and possible cut more thread on the axle.
 
Hey thanks for the reply, question

am I able to put a washer on the outside where the threads are instead of making new threads on the axle?

and will machining a new spacer change the alignment of the chain to front sprocket?
 
Yes you can do that, it'll just be noticeable that's all.
Yes you will need to check alignment as a matter of course whatever you decide to do, just make sure she's nice and true
 
I too had to spread the rear of my TC Bros hardtail with a bottle jack after it was welded on to the frame. It needs to be 8.5" wide on the inside of each axle plate. You then need to use a washer or two on the outside of each axle plate (between the axle plate and chain adjuster) to make up the thickness of your stock axle plates.
 
great more obstacles hahaha
thanks byookanun, I'm gonna go and measure today. I'll see what I can do

Apparently when my friends welded this for me they said that the top part of the tubes were a bit off and had to kind of bend them down to weld them.. Next build I'll for sure not use tc bros.
 
I dont think its a TC Bros issue to be fair. I ordered mine and they shipped it over the pond and it fit fine. When your friends welded it up did they brace the hardtail gap to the correct width using a block of wood?
When I had the issue it was a friends bike that had been welded up as it stood, hence the problem, however his was only 1/4"
When i built my own bobber the whole frame and hardtail was trued up and braced, including leaving the engine in to brace the original frame, whilst also ensuring the new addition hardtail was firmly held true and also could not twist.
 
I welded mine with the rear wheel in place. But when I removed the wheel the space between the axle plates closed up about an inch and a half. Just needed to spread it back out and it was fine. But talking about other hardtails out there I went with the TC Bros because I felt it was the best one based on build quality and looks .
 
I'm just being salty, I'm gonna go back and double check that it is human error. Here is another question, say that I use a bottle jack, am I going to run into the same problem if I for some reason decide to take the wheel out again? Have you guys had this issue?

Thanks for all the replies guys
 
You need stretch the axle plate spacing out past 8.5 inches so that when it relaxes it ends up at 8.5 inches. I would go to 9.5 inches and see what that does. You may need to go to 10 or 11 before it relaxes at 8.5. Thats what I had to do.
 
You need stretch the axle plate spacing out past 8.5 inches so that when it relaxes it ends up at 8.5 inches. I would go to 9.5 inches and see what that does. You may need to go to 10 or 11 before it relaxes at 8.5. Thats what I had to do.

Thanks a lot, I will go this route first. :thumbsup:
 
reporting back, my buddy did not have a bottle jack so we used a scissor jack and a piece of wood. I was trying to be diligent about opening up the rear end (sounds sexual :laugh:). I opened it up to about 9.5 then let it go then repeat.
MhrFsYr.jpg

I was a bit scared to do this but in the end the spacer went in along with the chain tensioner.
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I am still having a bit of a problem tightening the nut, the axle keeps spinning freely, as you can see I threw some washers at the end before the bolt to see if it would make a difference but to no avail it kept spinning.
 
Your stock swing arm used 3/8 inch thick axle plates. Your hard tail uses 1/4 inch thick axle plates. even with the right distance between the axle plates you still need to make up for the thinner of axle plates. 3/8 - 1/4 is 1/8. So add 1/8 on each side.
About two 3/4 inch washers.
Leo
 
thank you leo! you've been very responsive to all my replies, and thank you everyone with their inputs! I got plenty of those washers kickin around. I'll try that

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hey, they're just flipped the other way, since they're not tightened they fell down and I pushed them downwards. They're put on normally, I hope this make sense.
 
Guys, having a similar issue. Welded the tcbros hardtail with motor in and had it in a jig. Removed from jig and later welded the rear upper cross member with rear wheel in. Removed rear wheel and welded lower rear cross member. Now before I welded the cross members i had 8.5 inches. Now since the latest welding it closed up on me I lost about 2/16th of an inch, basically enough room for 2 washers that could be use to get the chain tensioners aligned correctly. Now, its a snug fit and i got to wedge ever so slightly but I can fit the spacer and the 2 tensioners (no more room for extra washers). Its snug but it fits. Is it ok being kinda snug like that? The crummy part is without the extra 2 spacing washers the rear tensioners dont line up center to the rear only only about slightly over half of the bolt will be making contact. Whats your thoughts here? Is this a big deal? Should I mess with picking up a bottle jack and doing as suggested here. Im new to bike building so excuse me being a bit half retarded here.
 
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