Tearing down my 77 continues....

[pumps]

Thank you Travis! I was wondering if this could be resurrected!
Ok the project as I left it on the old site. When I get home I'll put up some more recent work. You can look through the progress as of yet if you'd like.
http://650rider.com/index.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=8413&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

I have opted for the needle bearing conversion kit. Got my swing arm media blasted and waiting on the tension bar. When I get the tension bar back from my buddy they'll get powder coated.

Right side cover almost done.

Tach as I bought the bike. Did this a ways back but came across the picture on my pc.

And sourced a used one..it took a bit to find the correct one.

Currently polishing the rear rim, spokes ,hub and looking at swapping out the 34 tooth sprocket for a smaller one. I got the new rear axle bolt and nut , new chain adjusters, With my bearings got a swing arm bolt and nut . As always looking at my parts funds too. It's pretty damn cold here so progress is at a snails pace. I don't even want to go out to the barn.

 

[retiredgentleman]

Pumps, your bike is progressing nicely. Your engine cases look great. I polished my engine side cases last year, and I must say it makes a real improvement as to overall appearance. Once they are polished, its takes very little to maintain them. Your fork legs also looking fantastic.

I know what you mean about being too cold to work on the bike. I have some small jobs I'd like to do. I just wait until a chinook blows into town, and my garage will go from -10C to +8C..............makes a big difference.

 

[Visegrippe]

Seriously, we discovered a seond use for the oven we use for powder coating, with a small fan it'll get the barn comfortable, not cheap to run though

 

[pumps]

Polishing my rear hub today and I wonder what this bump is/was for. Older models had a wire to show the brake linings were gone..is this a leftover? Sorry for the crappy cell phone picture.

 

[gordonscott]

looking good Pumps

 

[Gordon]

I do believe you are correct. Also, you do need a steady-er hand, or quit drinkin', just kiddin', I remember what you said to me before. My cell take's excellent photo's, just loadin' em in the computer suck's. So I got me a nice little Kodak easyshare z760 for $25. Now if I remember to take some photo's, all will be well. Got a bad case of C.R S. Lookin' real good, got those rain catcher's good.

 

[pumps]

Thanks Gordon! That picture is my work bench at my fire station where I do a lot of boring polishing, painting rust removal etc. in my down time or between calls. I happened to come across a hub from a 75 for sale on egay and it has exactly what I wanted to know. I've never seen one before.

 

[Backroader]

Hey Pumps...looks like you are having way too much fun !

 

[pumps]

I am putting a parts order together and am looking at replacing chain and sprockets, among other things.. Staying with a 17T on the front and would like to go to a 30T on the rear for less rpms on top. How do I figure the chain length?

 

[inxs]

- maybe my logic is wrong , but, as 17-34 @ 104 links was original and youre removing 4 teeth from the rear, then your chain should be 2 links shorter at 102

 

[Sundie]

we had this conversation in another thread, and 102 was th result through logic, but on math or someone doing it. Should work - with the 104/34, you've still got some adjustment both way, so you should still have that adjustment at 102/30.

 

[Sundie]

not trying to bring you down, but that tach you got is for a special. It's got an orange needle and different font than the standards, which had a white needle as well. Just mentioning it because you said it took you a while to find the correct one.

 

[pumps]

Sundie-you are correct!
On the chain length subject I emailed mikexs and asked the. Their reply was :
"Removing 4 teeth on the rear sprocket, you should also remove the same number of links from the chain, taking you from a 104 link stock to a 100 link for your new size. "
So, what is correct?

 

[inxs]

...this was my reply to the same question earlier

- if you reduce the sprocket by 4 teeth, thats fine but can you be sure those 4 teeth are going to be within the chain contact area?

- i would be more tempted to remove 2 links, assuming the chain contacts half the sprocket

- however, once the sprocket is in place, lay the old chain and count the overlap

...of course, when in doubt, simply get a 104 link chain and a spare rivet link, cut to length, join, and let us know definitively

 

[Sundie]

i vote 102. On the basis that if you're wrong, it's easy to go to the local motorcycle shop and have them take a link or two out for $5, if they won't take a coffee.

 

[Travis]

Well the chain contacts the sprocket for more than 1/2 of the sprocket because the front sprocket is smaller. I think you'd probably need to remove two outer links and 1 inner link, but then you'd need one of those goofy adapter master link things.

 

[Sundie]

to get it in exactly in the same adjuster spot, sure. But then you can adjust it.

 

[Travis]

Exactly, that's probably why some people are saying 2 and others 4. I should have put a wink at the end of my last post. You're not going to remove an odd number of links because then you'd need one of those goofy adapters. Maybe 4 will work and you'll have plenty of room for adjusting as the chain stretches. Maybe 2 will work but you'll almost already be out of adjustment. Or maybe 4 won't work because it's too short all together and maybe 2 puts you right were you want to be with plenty of adjustment left.

That's a lot of maybes! Maybe pumps should just let us all know how it works out so I can stop saying maybe!

Personally I think you need to remove about 2.75 links . So removing 2 should work and you'll still have enough adjustment to make it work, and I don't know if removing 4 will work or not. I think it'll be just a tad too short but if it does work, it'll be with the axle all the way forward and you'll have full adjustment.

 

[Gordon]

When I replaced my sprocket's & chain, I went with the 17/31 combo. The chain needed 2 link's to be removed, & it was real tight . Not so tight that it was 'notchy', but a little tighter than I wanted. After 3-4000 mile's, my adjustment is near the center now.So, just my worth.

 

[pumps]

I'm getting my polished right side engine cover ready to put on and am getting ready to order a kick starter seal, a tach drive seal and o ring , gaskets etc. Today I removed the tach and the kick start seals and got all the old material removed. When I put the new seals in, especially the kick start seal, is there any special instructions I need to know? Should I use sealer of some kind? I was thinking I could tap them in with a socket carefully or perhaps a dowel rod. I just don't want a leak or to booger up the new seals getting them in. They were a little stubborn coming out. I know with the clutch pushrod seal on the left side it has been said to order two as it's easy to booger up the first one.
One other thing I don't see specified in the manual is how tight the screw should be tightened onto the spring in the oil filter by-pass.