I have experienced a lack of charging due to a bad rotor before (5 or 6 x's). But never had this happen before.
Switching the key on the fuse ('77 single fuse system) would blow.
Checking the coupling at the regulator I found continuity on all 3 wires (blk/grn/brwn).
Unplugging the coupling for the stator/rotor and only the grd on the regulator had continuity.
Checking the slip rings on the rotor showed high (16-18) ohms.
Checking the slip rings to clam shell no continuity.
So the test (and replacement) showed the rotor to be bad.
How or what "test" would one do to find out why the fuse was blowing?
The rotor(only the rotor all else the same) has been replaced and we are back to charging (12.9 v idling and 14.1 v @ 3K rpm).
Side note the glass fuse in a physical size to fit OEM is NLA?
Tried several auto parts stores but couldn't find one the right length to fit the plastic case.
So while I said nothing else changed, I did plumb a 20 a blade fuse into the system to replace the glass tube fuse.
Switching the key on the fuse ('77 single fuse system) would blow.
Checking the coupling at the regulator I found continuity on all 3 wires (blk/grn/brwn).
Unplugging the coupling for the stator/rotor and only the grd on the regulator had continuity.
Checking the slip rings on the rotor showed high (16-18) ohms.
Checking the slip rings to clam shell no continuity.
So the test (and replacement) showed the rotor to be bad.
How or what "test" would one do to find out why the fuse was blowing?
The rotor(only the rotor all else the same) has been replaced and we are back to charging (12.9 v idling and 14.1 v @ 3K rpm).
Side note the glass fuse in a physical size to fit OEM is NLA?
Tried several auto parts stores but couldn't find one the right length to fit the plastic case.
So while I said nothing else changed, I did plumb a 20 a blade fuse into the system to replace the glass tube fuse.