Timing help?

Fochops

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Can anybody here give me a step by step on how to set my timing on points ignition? I've searched the sight and can't find a good how to... Thanks for any help! I love this site, it has helped me get through so much already! You guys are the SH!T!!!:thumbsup:
 
Thx twins! always a great responder! It helps a little bit, im actually looking more for a how to though... My bike runs fairly well but im getting popping out of my left cylinder on decel. I have no detected leaks just rejetted carbs and it stopped the popping at idle. Odd thing is it only pops with both cylinders firing, does not pop when fine adjusting with dead cylinder method. So im going to check timing, intake/exhaust valves, and make sure carbs are synced with DIY manometer tomorrow... Ideas?
 
For the manometer, this is what I use:

22 feet of 3/16" ID, 5/16" OD plastic tubing.
 

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A few more tips ..... clean the feeler gauge blade before using it on the points. Any oil on the blade, even body oil from your fingers, can contaminate the points faces and cause a misfire. If your points are used, set the gap near the minimum spec, new about in the middle of the range.

If you plan on keeping the points and want to be able to set them exactly, get a dwell meter. That eliminates the feeler gauge from the equation and is also about the only accurate way to gap used points.
 
Got the carbs synced! She runs great now!!! Seems hard to sync on idle they fluctuate quite a bit, pulled the choke and seemed easier. They were more even. I'm gonna leave the timing alone until I get the pamco, that seems to be the way to go!:thumbsup:Thanks for the help guys!
 
Seems hard to sync on idle they fluctuate quite a bit, pulled the choke and seemed easier.

With your manometer I don't know if this would help or hurt, but it's necessary with a vacuum gauge - I take a mini-vice grip and adjust it to almost shut off the line. That eliminates that pulsing. Speeding the engine up, e.g. pulling the choke out, does smooth it out some, as you found out, but not as well as the clamp, and the clamp lets you sync it at idle speed.
 
It was a different kind of fluctuation, like an inch to inch and a half in either direction on idle, but with the choke on or reved a little it evened nicely... Not sure if they're supposed to fluctuate so much at idle or what the cause would be?
 
...or what the cause would be?

I think the reason is a combination of things, including the response time of the meter or whatever you're using. With the vacuum pulses being narrower at higher speeds the meter doesn't have time to respond as fully. Clamping the line also slows the response, because if you clamped it fully, the response time would be infinitely long :) Instead of a mess of hose and water I opted for a cheapo vacuum gauge. It doesn't even have to be accurate, since you only need both sides to read the same.
 
Yes the level in your homemade manometer will flucuate an inch or there abouts. This means it's working right.
At idle the vaccum will be higher than at a faster idle, like with the choke pulled. With the engine warmed up well at a slow idle gives the most accurate reading. As the fluid level flucuates just have it match side to side.
It flucuates because one cylinder has a vaccum when it's on the intake stroke. The other side is on the exhaust stroke, no vaccum. With the vaccum on just one end the fluid gets pulled one way. When the vacccum and no vaccum reverse the fluid gets pulled the other way.
So it flucuates.
Just get the highs and lows to match side to side. It is very sensetive too, just a small adjustment makes a very large change of the levels.
 
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