Tire rim fitment, load rating, speed rating, charts

Here's a fun little game.
Out of all those "noname" Italian rim pics, try to find a valvestem hole...

You're a real funny guy 2many! Last pic top left, you can't see the hole but you can see where I markered, so it's easy to find, I use it to keep track of drilling, then rounds of tightening spokes.
 
Did you ever show us details of that little truing stand of yours? An old swingarm obviously, but are those cones on the ends of the all-thread? Mine hangs the wheel using the axle or a suitable steel bar, but I've been thinking of building another. A tapered cone-into-bearing type might be nice, good for balancing too I'd imagine.
 
Yeah that swing arm stand has been in constant use lately. Those were some old wall hung toilet mounting dome nuts. I just turned a taper on them. Great for installing the outer spokes, "spoke hole redrilling", and truing but as you know the wheel bearings aren't free enough for balancing. I use an HF balancer but keep thinking I need a better way to grab the wheel than the set screw type cones it has. I may tap those cones 5/8 x 11, grab a chunk of 5/8 all thread and turn about an inch of both ends down to 1/2" to ride on the HF stand's bearings. Then I can easily snug the cones into the wheels bearings.
Got that wheel trued, warming up a Road Pilot 3 110/80/18 tire to install.
 
I've always static balanced on the axles or sometimes a steel rod slightly smaller in diameter than the axle. It seems to work OK. If it's not right, it's never been wrong enough to cause running and/or handling problems. Years ago when we were kids, we never even balanced our tires, just levered them on and rode, lol.
 
Tire is mounted (twice, pinched a tube, grr) and balanced with 1.25 ounce of old fashioned stick on weights. Not likely to change methods soon I just bought 8 pounds of .25 oz. weights this winter. I figure I've balanced at least 20 tires so far on the stand so the $20 was well spent. I did spend another $3 on sidewalk chalk....

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Leo do you have an air dryer on your compressor?
 
That's how I judge and justify the cost of the tools I buy. Use them enough and they pay for themselves, then actually start saving you money. My HF tire changer is the perfect case in point. I'd be in the poor house if I had to pay someone to change all the tires I do, lol. Gary, with all the wheel work you do, if you haven't done so already, I recommend you build yourself one of these. It's a simple, solid support base to lay wheels on while you work on them, either on a bench top or on the ground .....

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Sorry I'm not that organized 5T but I do keep chunks of 2x4 at all my various benches. I have a Coates 200 but it's in the shed, In the winter I still do a lot of tires on the floor with 3 tire irons by the wood stove. :shrug:


It's like this;

It was a cold winter day, when an old man walked out onto a frozen lake, cut a hole in the ice, dropped in his fishing line and began waiting for a fish to bite. He was there for almost an hour without even a nibble when a young boy walked out onto the ice, cut a hole in the ice not too far from the old man and dropped in his fishing line. It only took about a minute and WHAM! a Largemouth Bass hit his hook and the boy pulled in the fish. The old man couldn't believe it but figured it was just luck. But, the boy dropped in his line and again within just a few minutes pulled in another one. This went on and on until finally the old man couldn't take it any more since he hadn't caught a thing all this time. He went to the boy and said, "Son, I've been here for over an hour without even a nibble. You have been here only a few minutes and have caught about half a dozen fish! How do you do it?" The boy responded, "Roo raf roo reep ra rums rrarm." "What was that?" the old man asked. Again the boy responded, "Roo raf roo reep ra rums rarrm." "Look," said the old man, "I can't understand a word you are saying." So, the boy spit into his hand and said, "You have to keep the worms warm!"

but with tires.
 
No, I don't have an air drier, I have thought about getting one of the inline cartridge style ones though. I only run the compressor just before I use it and drain it about every other time or so. Never get any moisture out the drain.
On the Dyna Beads they do recommend not getting moisture inside the tires, It can cause clumping of the beads. When I mount tubeless tires I make sure the tire and wheel are dry and mount them dry, no lube. On tubed tires A bit of lube won't hurt, it can't get inside the tube.
I only put air in my tires at home. This way I have a fairly good idea of how much moisture gets in the tire. At most any gas station you never know. A garage may have dryer air.
I agree with 5twins on using something up off the floor and solid for tires. I used to work on the ground, but as I age getting down on the ground isn't much fun.
I have Harbor Freights manual tire changer for car tires, I also got the bike tire adapter.
I don't use the over head arm that comes with it. I just lever tires on/off. Having the tires up about stomach level so I can stand up to work on them is so much better than on the ground.
I was up looking at them just the other day. They have made some changes to the bike tire adapter. The part that sticks up to grip the wheel is much taller than mine. I have thought about making mine taller, on the Harley rear wheel I have to remove the belt pulley so it the hooks can reach the wheel.
Longer hooks would save that much work.
I also added extra holes where the hooks slide on the arms, I can do the 8 inch trailer tires too.
Oh one more thing about the beads, you can take them out of the old tube/tire and put them in the new. I'm on the third set of tires for the Harley on one set of beads.
Leo
 
S'pose I'll have to try dynabeads someday, sigh. Leo you are always pushing this newfangled stuff on us old farts....
Do you use the real ones or cheap knock offs?
Take them out of the old tube; with a knife?

I have a perfectly good Michelin Macadam on the front of the blue 79, it has like 4oz of spoke weights in one spot and still makes the bike shake. I even took them all off and redid it but ended up with 4oz again. if they would balance that I'll believe.... Getting a different rim and new Shinko ready to go on that bike for the Ozarks rally.
 
I had to mod the rim clamps on my changer. They were so small, they would barely grab a rim with no rubber padding in place, and I wasn't about to use them "bareback". The larger angle clamps I made simply bolt on and allow use of 3/8" hose split length-wise for padding. They work very well .....

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Lots of this cheap HF stuff needs some tweaks to make it work right.
 
I have a "Shinko Shaker" on the front of my bike now. It's the first Shinko front I've tried and will be my last, lol.
 
I've bought about 10 Shinko's so far with no problems. Put one on the back of the K1200LT pig, loaded it up and ran it 3000 miles, working perfect, looks like it's got another 4-5K in it. Note the tire in the thread above is a Michelin, shmit happens.
I did get a Shinko on a project XS, the tube was flat. pulled the tube replaced it and when I inflated it to seat the beads, I saw splits in the tread, one went all the way through the carcass, probably pinched the tube to cause the flat, scary. Can't say for sure but maybe someone ran the pressure up sky high to seat the beads? I've been guilty of 60+ pounds a time or two seating beads. I tend to pull the core dope the beads with Ruglyde and try again now. So far that is keeping me away from high pressures. I quit using soap after some reports it corrodes aluminum....
 
I've had no problems with Shinko rears, just that one front. Maybe I just got a bad one. It's not terrible, just a little head shake when passing through the 30 to 35 MPH range. I hardly notice it anymore, but it's definitely not as good as my old fav, the Cheng Shin C906 Hi-Max .....

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This was a wonderful tire. I fitted it in combination with many different brands and tread patterns of rears. It always worked well. It's tread pattern was a copy of a Metzler, the ME33. I think I've found a substitute now, a tire from Vee Rubber. I'm going the try one .....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Vee-Rub...-Front-MOTORCYCLE-TIRE-Tubeless-/181930730185
 
4 oz's in one place. That's a lot of weight. Dyna Beads may help. It may take more than the recommended 1 oz of beads, worth a try.
So far I have used the Dyna Beads as sold by innovativebalancing.com I found some ceramic beads on Ebay for less. Being ceramic beads I can't see why they won't work.
I recommend them because the work well.
On moving them, yes I just cut the old tube.
The only thing I do differently is the clear hose the send in the kits, I get a piece the same size but about 2 feet long to install with. It's easier to watch the beads as the run into the valve stem. They can jam up in the valve stem if you go to fast. The longer hose makes it easier to see the beads.
Leo
 
Replaced the front Michelin Macadam with a shinko. about 1.4 oz of weight shake gone. But I slapped the bars at 75 and got a pretty good speed wobble going. Note; to stop a speed wobble PUSH on both bars. pulling will make it worse. Fork seals and oil were done last year, head bearings original but with no slop or dents. Found about a 1/4" of play in the swing arm so replaced the PO's 120/80 Michelin Macadam with a 110/80 Shinko and put in an all balls needle bearing swing arm kit. It's rock steady now, couldn't upset it, even with intentional hard bar shaking at speed.
 
And now mounted up


Yes due to a members shameless begging to buy one of my rims, and my discovery of the italian rim connection, the rims are mis-matched. I have a flange 18" front ready to lace. Still fence sitting between a 2.5 and 3" width, I have both............. Will have to drill and drop the front fender for appearance. I will also need to stiffen the front springs, Grizld's endless nagging and the reduced front tire diameter have me "needing" some more height. I just grabbed a set of 35mm sporty springs so will report on how that works with the MikesXS knock off emulators when they get here.

There is plenty of width inside the 35mm forks and Fender for the wider rims, tires. I may change the fender mount bolts to button heads, tire touches but easily pushes past them during mounting.

tire are michelin PP3 110/80/18 fronts running tubes with the rear mounted backwards. put 50 miles on it yesterday. So far so good, I think my old reflexes and frailty, the state of Wisconsin roads, and the acceptable limits of of public road riding will be the limiting factor to cornering now.

Before; Pilot Activ 100/90/19 on a 2.15x19 MikesXS rim After; pilot power 3 110/80/18 on a 2.5 x 18 mikesXS rim.

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Pilot power 3 (front) 110/80/18 on a 3 x 18 italian rim.

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While subtle, IMHO the wider tires look so right :D..........

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Both ends are now 3x18 with Michelin power pilot 3 110/80 18 front tires running tubes.

Getting that front flange 3x18 rim/tire installed is an um interesting project. caliper won't fit between rim and rotor so either have to remove caliper from carrier, assemble in place or loosen rotor. The fender also has to go on before the wheel is mounted, the bolts won't go in because the rim is in the way.

Need to get some more miles on but I'm like'n it so far.

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Doing up a different fender, don't much care for how the XS750 fender looks even though I redrilled the mounting holes 5/8" lower.
 
Hmmm, no left disc mount cover, just button head Allens filling the holes. That doesn't look half bad.
 
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