Tool for Knurled speedo/tach cable end nuts?

DogBunny

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What are y'all using to tighten and loosen the speedo and tach cable end nuts? I've always used channel-locks, sometimes with a piece of inner-tube to protect the knurling, but usually not because it is clumsy and slows down removal and assembly, so I usually end up with tool marks on the nuts. There has to be a better way, maybe even a specific tool. Tightening with fingers does not work, I've had the nuts loosen off at the gauges many times.
 
Just old fashioned "regular pliers" like comes in the tool kit. Seldon ( but not never) have a nut back off.
 
I use a nice pair of small "water-pipe" pliers with the jaws set to provide a parallel grip. I don't squeeze too hard and, like Gary, I've never had one back off.
 
Ugh, I've lost a couple of speedo cables by not tightening them enough. I use a drop of blue Loctite now and check it often.
 
Thanks for the replies. "Regular pliers," and "water-pipe" pliers are pretty much similar to what I am using. It can be very awkward trying to keep the jaws parallel to the nut at the gauges, what with the headlight and the gauge mounting nuts in the way. Same awkwardness at the speedo drive gear on the wheel. Going with some type of very small serrated-jaw pliers would probably be an improvement for me, but there has to be a better way. Trying to avoid tool-marks.
I've used blue Locktite too, but they don't use it at the factory. Are they using a dedicated tool?...
 
Like most, I just use regular pliers. My pair of choice are some Craftsman ones. They have wide, sharp teeth and grip very well .....

sdqYZKN.jpg


Tool kit pliers also work well and are a little smaller. The trick here is to squeeze hard enough so the jaws don't slip, but not so hard that you deform the knurled fitting. It's somewhat of an acquired skill I guess.
 
I use these 'little baby' channel locks...as a matter of fact, I use these more than any other tool I have.
I don't even remember where or when I got them.
 

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Like most, I just use regular pliers. My pair of choice are some Craftsman ones. They have wide, sharp teeth and grip very well .....

sdqYZKN.jpg


Tool kit pliers also work well and are a little smaller. The trick here is to squeeze hard enough so the jaws don't slip, but not so hard that you deform the knurled fitting. It's somewhat of an acquired skill I guess.

I would think a standard set of pliers like the above, but with the end parallel jaws cut off, to leave just the crescent jaws would do the job. It can be left at the back of the toolbox for this one job, when it would be invaluable.
I've always used normal pliers, but sometimes I wish I had a more specialist tool, as other things on some bikes make access difficult.
Minor toolmarks don't bother me much, as it's just part of the history. Massive gouges and scrapes from careless baboons bother me more.
 
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