Tools needed for chain replacement

engine22

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I just ordered a new chain because mine has some serious tight spots (i'm guessing from PO letting the bike sit for years). What tools do I need to replace the chain? Can I buy them locally or will I have to order them? This is my first time replacing it, I imagine its pretty straight forward with the right tools.
 
10 & 12mm for the chain adjusters, needle nose pliers for the cotter pin and outside clip on the master link, 13 or 14mm for the hub stay and brake adjustment nut, 1 1/4 or 1/8 for the axle nut.
Loosen the adjusters all the way back. Remove cotter pin. Loosen hub staybar(I leave the hairpin in so I don't lose it). Back the brake adjuster all the way back. Loosen the axle nut and slide the wheel forward. Now look for the master link and rotate it to a easy access spot on the bottom. Remove the clip and outside of the master link. Drop the back half the chain and put the new chain on the master link pin. Then pull the old chain out drawing the new chain with it. Put your new master link in with the clip in the correct position. Pull the wheel back easy and finger tighten the adjusters. Take a piece of string or 2 sticks and measure from the grease zerts on the pivot bolt to the center of the axle you want this to be even on both sides. Try to get a flat spot on the adjsuter nut at the top on both sides. Now all you have to do is count flats to adjust the wheel evenly. When you get the chain to the desired tension tighten the brake adjuster nut and hold the brake down while tightening the axle. Tighten hub stay, chain adjster lock, replace cotter pin, final brake pedal adjustment and anything else I forgot.
 
If your chain has a riveted master link, you can use an angle grinder to smooth the peened pins and remove the sideplate easily.

If you have a clip type master link, many have a press on side plate, so if yours does, you'll need to pry it off. New ones can be installed with a cheap sideplate press tool.

Using a rivet-type link over a clip master link requires another different peening tool that mikes sells at discount if you buy an izumi chain.
 
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+1 on weekendrider's post. I replaced mine last week and it took maybe thirty minutes. Just have patience and don't get in a rush and just as mentioned above make sure every thing is even when putting it back together. Measure and remeasure to make sure.
 
10 & 12mm for the chain adjusters, needle nose pliers for the cotter pin and outside clip on the master link, 13 or 14mm for the hub stay and brake adjustment nut, 1 1/4 or 1/8 for the axle nut.
Loosen the adjusters all the way back. Remove cotter pin. Loosen hub staybar(I leave the hairpin in so I don't lose it). Back the brake adjuster all the way back. Loosen the axle nut and slide the wheel forward. Now look for the master link and rotate it to a easy access spot on the bottom. Remove the clip and outside of the master link. Drop the back half the chain and put the new chain on the master link pin. Then pull the old chain out drawing the new chain with it. Put your new master link in with the clip in the correct position. Pull the wheel back easy and finger tighten the adjusters. Take a piece of string or 2 sticks and measure from the grease zerts on the pivot bolt to the center of the axle you want this to be even on both sides. Try to get a flat spot on the adjsuter nut at the top on both sides. Now all you have to do is count flats to adjust the wheel evenly. When you get the chain to the desired tension tighten the brake adjuster nut and hold the brake down while tightening the axle. Tighten hub stay, chain adjster lock, replace cotter pin, final brake pedal adjustment and anything else I forgot.

This should be in Tech notes. It is a very good description of the process. Every time I changed the chain on a bike I completely removed the old chain and did not use the old chain as a pull thru. Very good.
 
No special tools needed to put it on if you use a clip link. The easiest way to get the ends lined up is to use the rear sprocket to do it. Very hard to get them together with the ends just in the air. Push the axle adjusters all the way forward too.
 
This works fine as long as the sprockets are ok. If they are worn you will wear out the new chain very quickly.
Leo
 
Bought new sprockets as well, and the chain I ordered does have a clip type master link as well so should be pretty straightforward.

Weekendrider's description should be in the tech section. That is a wonderful, clear, and concise description. I printed it out.

The chain I ordered is a 110 link heavy duty so I will have to remove 6 links to get it to the standard 104 link (for 17/34 tooth sprocket set). Don't have a chain breaker or angle grinder so I'll have to get one or figure out some other way to remove some links.

Thanks for the help, as always
 
yeah just like the manual says, don't want the drive tension pulling your chain clean off!
 
Bought new sprockets as well, and the chain I ordered does have a clip type master link as well so should be pretty straightforward.

Weekendrider's description should be in the tech section. That is a wonderful, clear, and concise description. I printed it out.

The chain I ordered is a 110 link heavy duty so I will have to remove 6 links to get it to the standard 104 link (for 17/34 tooth sprocket set). Don't have a chain breaker or angle grinder so I'll have to get one or figure out some other way to remove some links.

Thanks for the help, as always
use a Dremel tool or even a hand file to cut down the pin ends, a chain breaker will push the pins out thru the side plate but risks damaging the innner rollers of the chain as they push thru
 
10 & 12mm for the chain adjusters, needle nose pliers for the cotter pin and outside clip on the master link, 13 or 14mm for the hub stay and brake adjustment nut, 1 1/4 or 1/8 for the axle nut.
Loosen the adjusters all the way back. Remove cotter pin. Loosen hub staybar(I leave the hairpin in so I don't lose it). Back the brake adjuster all the way back. Loosen the axle nut and slide the wheel forward. Now look for the master link and rotate it to a easy access spot on the bottom. Remove the clip and outside of the master link. Drop the back half the chain and put the new chain on the master link pin. Then pull the old chain out drawing the new chain with it. Put your new master link in with the clip in the correct position. Pull the wheel back easy and finger tighten the adjusters. Take a piece of string or 2 sticks and measure from the grease zerts on the pivot bolt to the center of the axle you want this to be even on both sides. Try to get a flat spot on the adjsuter nut at the top on both sides. Now all you have to do is count flats to adjust the wheel evenly. When you get the chain to the desired tension tighten the brake adjuster nut and hold the brake down while tightening the axle. Tighten hub stay, chain adjster lock, replace cotter pin, final brake pedal adjustment and anything else I forgot.




I'm gonna bring this back! Im having a hell of a time trying to even up my wheel. When I use the notches it rubs on the chain guard. What do you mean grease zerts? Could somebody post up a pic of a good way to get the tire straight? thanks guys!
 
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