coneeng
XS650 Addict
My manual doesn't list a torque spec for the bolting the rotor to the wheel. It's aluminum so over-torquing scares the crap out me! At the same time too loose scares me too!
Any help?
Any help?
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Torque spec rotor to wheel
- Thread starter coneeng
- Start date
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- Tags
- brakes maintenance wheels
xskid
xskid
Lock washers and I believe I set mine to 22 pounds so far so good.
Posted via Mobile
Posted via Mobile
I know the rear wheel has steel inserts for the sprocket cast into the hub. I think the front are done the same.
I found the spec for the disc brake to hub at 12.3 to 15.9 ft/lbs.
For bolts or nuts that your repair manual doesn't have a listed torque for they have a chart that gives you a torque value by the size of the bolt.
Leo
I found the spec for the disc brake to hub at 12.3 to 15.9 ft/lbs.
For bolts or nuts that your repair manual doesn't have a listed torque for they have a chart that gives you a torque value by the size of the bolt.
Leo
You're aware that there are locking tabs that go with those bolts. I had sprocket bolts that were broken off, and I've also had sprocket bolts that would work loose. I wouldn't locktite them; 5Twins mentioned anti-seize doing double duty as a kind of weak and non-seizing locktite. Has been working for me. Before then I had discovered that if the locking tabs were bent up on three sides on the sprocket bolts they at least could not come out. Two sides, they could, I guess because of the size of the hole in the tab.
Check for steel insert with a magnet while the disk is off. Would be interesting to know.
coneeng
XS650 Addict
Interesting on the steel insert, wish I had known to check before hand. I loctite'd and torqued to 20#. I might remove and back down to 15#. The front didn't show any tabs and the rear is a Omar adapter, it just says to use lots of Loctite. Just flat washers in my kit, no lock washers and I've actually been told not to use a lock washer on AL.
One thing I have learned is to chase the AL threads about every 3 times removed when using Loctite. It seems to promote cross threading in AL.
I expected to find a table in the manual for generic torques and was surprised mine didn't have one. But usually those are steel-to-steel. It does have a engine torque chart and I thought about looking up a similar size bolt there as it would be steel-to-aluminum.
One thing I have learned is to chase the AL threads about every 3 times removed when using Loctite. It seems to promote cross threading in AL.
I expected to find a table in the manual for generic torques and was surprised mine didn't have one. But usually those are steel-to-steel. It does have a engine torque chart and I thought about looking up a similar size bolt there as it would be steel-to-aluminum.
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The factory manual says 14.5 ft.lbs. disk to hub. There's no reason not to leave it at 20 that I know of (since it didn't break). You would have to clean all the locktite mess away to read an accurate 15 anyway. Don't know what year you have but the '81 at least has bend up tabs on the front.
coneeng
XS650 Addict
I was thinking that the less stress on the Al threads the better over time. Only takes a few minutes to back off, re-Loctite and re-torque.
wherearewe
Rub on Ya Titties
I went 14.5 with spring washers and 304 stainless cap screws. Used Nickel Anti-Seize to prevent galvanic corrosion.
