TSox build thread, Bobber, Chopper who knows

T-Sox

Wrench Monkey
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I figured it was time to post up a thread documenting my build. You've all seen this done a million times so this will be more for me than anything :D

Here is how it started. A 81 XS650 special with 19,000 miles that ran but not well and was having electrical issues. I picked this up last Friday very reasonable.

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By Saturday at lunch it looked like this,

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I didn't have much time to do anything on it during the week. I ended up picking up 2 XS400's the next day and I'm doing a Tracker build on one of those at the same time. Link below to that build thread in case anyone cares. I have lots of parts for those too if anyone needs anything.

http://www.xs400.com/threads/tsox-1978-xs400-tracker-build.15855/
 
So today I finally tore into the motor. Everything looks really good inside. The cam chain guide was cracking but the chain was still tight and it didn't look bad. The bores are in great shape. The ring gap is well within spec.

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I am wondering if someone might have been in the motor before. There were some odd looking fasteners holding the head on and back by the dipstick :umm:

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I'm really hoping I can just do a top end and some light valve work and call it done. What say the experts? Should I open up the bottom just to reseal it?

Now I'm waiting on the hardtail section for the frame. The purists will be happy to know I sent the rear section of the frame off to a Forum member that's putting a cafe' racer back to stock. Here is how she sits now all lonely.



I also got a couple extra boxes of parts with the 400's and found this top clamp mounted to a set of handlebars.



Stock top clamp in the back. It mounts up perfectly, lowers the front end an inch or so and I like that it's a more flat profile. I should be able to shave it up really nice :thumbsup:

That's all for now :bike:
 
...I am wondering if someone might have been in the motor before. There were some odd looking fasteners holding the head on and back by the dipstick :umm:

Looks like hardware store fasteners. Do your detective sleuthing on the other case boltheads and nuts to see if they've been disturbed.

... Should I open up the bottom just to reseal it?

I'd at least check the conrod big ends, the 2mm side-side limit test.
And the small ends, non-wobbly slip-fit of wristpins.
Otherwise, tough call. Kinda depends on your values and goals.
If it ran and shifted ok with no bottom end noises, no leakage behind the rotor, could leave it be.
Else, go for it...
 
Someone has definitely been in the top end before. Many of the bolts were mangled and some of the hardware on the outside was Stainless steel without anti sieze :doh:. I had to drill out a couple of the heads because they were siezed.

Everything does look very clean and so far everything is nice and tight. The oil in the bike was very clean and I haven't seen anything that would suggest the bike was neglected. Just some Redneck fixes. I found the wierd fasteners, someone sealed the one head pipe with high temp silicone and one of the acorn nuts on top didn't have a washer under it.

I'm thinking I better at least take a look in the bottom end. If there are any more suspect fasteners, I want to replace them.
 
... some Redneck fixes...

Yep, those are warning signs. Working on certain bikes, I used to get this paranormal sensation, like the hackles on the back of my neck would stand up. A sure sign, for me anyway, that surprizes were a'waiting.

... I'm thinking I better at least take a look in the bottom end. If there are any more suspect fasteners, I want to replace them.

Good plan!
 
A little update.

Engine tear down continues with no more surprises. I welded up an engine stand with some junk I had in the scrap pile. Some brackets and a piece of square tubing from an old shelf and viola....

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The hardtail showed up today so I began the process of preping the frame.

Here is a little tip I came up with for cutting the stock frame for a TC Bros hardtail. It says to cut the lower frame rails 3/4" behind the stock exhaust mounts. Well, your average roll of electric tape is 3/4" wide. Run a section around tight to the exhaust mount and use that for a cutting guide.

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Tomorrow I hope to get the frame shaved and get the hardtail tacked in place. Then I can start thinking about how it will all go together.

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Update time,

I finally got around to getting the hardtail welded on. It went pretty easy. The hardest part was getting everything shaved to my liking. I'm a little anal with the detail work sometimes. I say the most work on a bike is spent on things you don't see.

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Not my best ever welds but not bad for a 110v mig in my shed.

Then I found a piece of pipe and fitted a new lower neck tube.

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Next I had an idea to clean up this ugly front motor mount.

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I took a grinder to the 3 welds per side of that chrome cover and already it was looking nicer.


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I considered leaving it this way but I had these nice sleeves that are the perfect inside diameter.
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So I chopped the mount up even further.

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I cut and fitted the spacers. This is what it looks like all tacked up.

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Much better IMO and it didn't cost me anything.
 
Time for an update I guess. I haven't done anything major. I'm still waiting on parts. I've had three different things come in wrong so far :banghead:.

I did decide I'm not sure this is going to be what most people would call a bobber. So I guess call it whatever you want :D

I did get the controls almost completed. I made them like I do most things, by routing through the parts bin. I started by cutting up the stock peg mounts.


The holes were too big so I welded some of that same bushing stock inside the holes and that made them perfect.

I bolted a piece of flat stock to the exhaust mounts and then bolted the "dog bones" I made to them. I found an old set of O-ring highway pegs in the parts bin and bolted those on. Once I had the location right I welded the dog bones to the flat stock.

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The shifter is a brake pedal off of a XS400 cut off, flipped over and welded to the splines off another shifter I found in the parts bin.

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I still need to weld a spacer to hold the peg.

The brake side started the same way. I matched the pegg location from the shifter side and welded it up. Then I went out to the scrap pile, found the rear section and helped myself to this.



Then I drilled a hole in the pivot rod and marked it up for surgery.

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The pivot holder was cleaned up and welded to the frame and I ended up with this.

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I plan to extend the brake pedal out and use the same style O ring peg on it.

Then I turned my attention to the pull rod. I got a piece of 1/4" rod and threaded a section to M6 threads.

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I'm not sure why it looks crooked in the picture, it's not.

Then I threaded a M6 nut on for a spring retainer.

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When it's on the bike the rod is perfectly parallel with the lower frame rail which I think looks better. I have an awesome idea to dress this up. Stay tuned for that.

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I'll wait to finalize the length until I have everything locked down.
 
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I also modded the kicker a little. I bought a set of nice bike pedals off ebay. The threads are 1/2" fine thread. I don't have that size tap so I just got a nut and welded it on. I welded all the way around it.

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Yea, I know the welds are ugly. What ever Yamaha casts this stuff out of I don't know but I had a hard time welding it. Oh well, it's solid, just not pretty. I always say "do your best and grind the rest" so I cleaned it up with a flapper wheel.

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I'll clean it up more before it gets powder coated but I really like how it came out :pimp:
 
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