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Got a little more done today. I split the rear caliper and gave each a coat of paint and machined the logos off. I replaced the seals and reassembled.
I also gave the rear master cylinder a coat of black. I got the brake hose made up and used a spare fluid bottle I had lying around, then bled them off.
Instead of going for a peddle kicker, I decided to keep the theme of the pegs and machine a chequered aluminium piece. I managed to get the grooves machined on the lathe but ran out of time to machine the cross set on the mill.
I also mocked up the rear mudguard - still figuring out how I'll attach it.
A little more done today. I finished off the kickstart on the mill. I ran an M12 die down the end of the kickstart and tapped out the aluminium and piece. I'll put some loctite on the finished article but it's fairly tight now.
Next steps are to work out how I'm going to mount the rear mudguard
Thanks Airwolfie. I popped it through a tumbler bath so it's not as sharp as it looks. After popping some plugs in, boy does it have some compression, so I'm keen for my foot to stay planted
A little more done today. I finished off the carbs and rebuilt them. I also took the brass vacuum take off barbs from some old BS34 carb rubbers and fitted them to the new BS38 rubbers. Just to make it easier to balance the carbs in the future. Next step is to mount the rear mudguard. Just needing a bit inspiration on the best way - bit of research tonight
Hi Peanut, yes I'm sticking with the 38s as they were pretty much ok. Also, I'm spending enough already, so the carbs can be done later
I soda blasted the bodies and the rest was done on a wire wheel. Laborious but the results speak volumes
Hi Paul,
if you'd like some input:-
Rear fender:-
Rubber mount it to steel straps across the frame at the upper and lower frame tubes.
Stiffen the fender with a steel flatbar up it's middle on the inside.
Attach the stiffener with big ol' aluminum dome rivets for show.
Kickstart sleeve:-
Let it rotate on it's threads.
Counterbore the sleeve's outer end and tap the kicker shaft's outer end what? Mebbe M4? for a keeper screw and plain washer.
Hi Fred, that was my initial thoughts too on the rear mudguard. I'm trying to find some nice thick rubber'washers, I know I have in here somewhere
Re the kicker, I'll look at sleeving the threads and boring the kicker internal out to 15mm and perhaps machine a groove in the sleeve and use some discreet grub screws to retain it - one to ponder with a cup of tea
the kick start lever only subscribes around a 1/3 of a circle .
I would have thought that it would be more dangerous for your boot to slip off a revolving peg part way though the kick or worse right at the end when you could get a nasty kickback.
A knurled KS peg is going to chew your footwear eventually whatever you do ...its a given
A productive day today. After much thought and some comments on the thread, the whole right tank was just too much of a waste for electronics. So, I decided to split it and weld in a plate, so that about two thirds can be used for fuel. Ill also fit a crossover pipe for fuel to flow from the left tank next weekend. I was concerned that much welding would warp the tank but it went back together fine - lots of tack welds then a good seam. Just some distortion on the thinner panels but very minimal, nothing a little filler won't resolve.
It was also good to see the penetration from the original welds when the tank was open
Then, I moved on to the rear mudguard. I opted for the original design I had in my head - two cross members with a short length of tube to the centre of the mudguard. I machine some threaded M8 slugs and welded them into the end of each short section and tacked it all up. I'll get some 20mm rubber washers, the ones in the pics are just for mock up
I can't decide whether to cut the rear mudguard off at the lower rail system or to leave it as is, with a bit extending down - thoughts please