Ungrounding 3 screws on stator assembly?? why?

[aftershock]

i keep hearing everybody say "you need to unground the 3 screws on the stator/rotor"
But nobody ever says why. Im sure it depends on the setup and everything, but what is the reason and when do u need to do it???


i am looking to do somthing similiar to the noid diagram but have seperate rectifier , and have to run seperate regulator. and need help with wiring the 2, and wether i need to unground those 3 screws on the stator

 

[Twisted XS]

I just finished a harness for my bike and I was also told to unground the stator with nylon screws (not plastic). apparently keeps you from frying the stator.
Go to youtube and search this video "XS650 Charging System How to Wire it Up - Continued"......my buddy sent me this link and it shows you a basic charging system for an XS. Also I would invest in a combo reg/rec...much easier to wire = less headache.

 

[aftershock]

ya i already have this unit tho and dont want to spend another 100bucks, and apparently i dont have to unground the screws, its only when the rectifier/reg combo controls the grounding. and was told all i need to do is get a regulator from parts store for $15. As im researching im figuring it out i think. since the unit i have is only a rectifier i am just gonna grab a regulator and throw it in.

 

[pamcopete]

The factory mechanical, relay type regulator on earlier models provides a pulsed battery to the green wire brush on the stator. The other brush is grounded.

Starting in 1980, the regulator provided a pulsed ground to the same brush as above, so the other brush had to go to battery.

There are some aftermarket regulators that also provide a pulsed ground to the green wire brush, so if you have an earlier stator, you have to isolate the grounded brush with nylon screws and apply battery to that brush in order to use these types of regulators.

One of the popular mods is to use a Chrysler regulator from the 1970's that is readily available and only costs $15. This regulator provides a pulsed ground on the green wire brush so if you are going to use it on pre 1980 XS650's, you have to either install a '80's stator with the ungrounded brush or you can just isolate the grounded brush with nylon screws and feed battery to that brush through a fuse.

 

[aftershock]

Thanks for the explanation! I'm still trying to figure out tho in my situation do I need to unground. I have the SS "rectifier only"from mikes (posted originally)and have completely stock ignition and stator assembly on a 78 650. I guess I'm gonna do the cheap regulator from auto store since my rectifier isn't a combo. So I'm still confused wether I need to unground the screws. Appreciate any advise on my particular setup

 

[retiredgentleman]

Thanks for the explanation! I'm still trying to figure out tho in my situation do I need to unground. I have the SS "rectifier only"from mikes (posted originally)and have completely stock ignition and stator assembly on a 78 650. I guess I'm gonna do the cheap regulator from auto store since my rectifier isn't a combo. So I'm still confused wether I need to unground the screws. Appreciate any advise on my particular setup

OK here's the scoop. On your 1978, the right side inner brush is grounded, and can remain grounded. It remains grounded for both the stock relay type regulator or for a solid state automotive regulator such as the VR-115. Either regulator will send a variable positive voltage on the green wire to the left outer brush.

If you buy a VR-115 regulator, wire as follows:

If you still have the stock wiring that went to the stock OEM regulator; the brown wire in the harness is connected to the yellow and orange of the VR-115. The green wire in the harness that comes from the outer left brush is connected to the green wire of the VR-115. The black wire in the harness is connected to the black wire of the VR-115.

Just disregard the "unground 3 screws" statement. That does not apply to a 78 model with a 70 to 79 type of regulator.

If you buy the VR-115, you will want to cut off the connector that comes on it and rewire it to a 3 pin connector that will plug directly into your stock wiring harness. The connectors are available at Mikesxs.com.

 

[aftershock]

awesome thanks! i guess i forgot to mention i chucked the original harness im completely wiring from scratch, just minimal. like the diagram I posted above. so i have no idea of colors, so i just need to figure out where the 2 wires coming out of regulator need to go. I think i got the rectifier figured out from the diagram. and from what you guys said i dont need to unground the screws on the stator. Whats confusing is in that diagram he says you have to unground those 3 screws, I guess that depends on which rectifier you use? thanks again!

 

[retiredgentleman]

awesome thanks! i guess i forgot to mention i chucked the original harness im completely wiring from scratch, just minimal. like the diagram I posted above. so i have no idea of colors, so i just need to figure out where the 2 wires coming out of regulator need to go. I think i got the rectifier figured out from the diagram. and from what you guys said i dont need to unground the screws on the stator. Whats confusing is in that diagram he says you have to unground those 3 screws, I guess that depends on which rectifier you use? thanks again!

You can't believe everything you find on the internet. The diagram you posted does not tell the complete story. That diagram ( unground the 3 screws) is correct only if you are using a 80 to 83 type of regulator with a 70 to 79 stator/brush alternator. The 70 to 79 years all had one grounded brush, whereas the 80 to 83 years do not.

No stock harness is no problem. The VR-115 orange and yellow wires both connect to the down stream side of the ignition switch. The VR-115 green wire connects to the outer left side brush. The VR-115 black wire connects to a common grounds wire in the harness, or to bare metal on the frame (do not use the battery box).

 

[aftershock]

Awesome. Thanks! I think I got it all now,
One more question when u say connect to downstream side of switch, u mean from the switch when it's in on position,giving it 12volts from battery to regulator? Sorry I'm such an idiot with wiring.

 

[aftershock]

Don't know if it matters, not using a keyed switch. Just a regular toggle switch

 

[retiredgentleman]

Awesome. Thanks! I think I got it all now,
One more question when u say connect to downstream side of switch, u mean from the switch when it's in on position,giving it 12volts from battery to regulator? Sorry I'm such an idiot with wiring.

Yes, you only want power to the regulator when the ignition is on. A keyed ignition is much preferred to a toggle switch.

 

[zeben75]

I have had the same problem with my 75 xs I got a new combo rectifier/regulator from mikes xs and it still would not charge and some one told me the same about unfrounding the brushes. Hopefully I can get going now. It sucks when you can only ride for 20min at a time.

 

[retiredgentleman]

I have had the same problem with my 75 xs I got a new combo rectifier/regulator from mikes xs and it still would not charge and some one told me the same about unfrounding the brushes. Hopefully I can get going now. It sucks when you can only ride for 20min at a time.

If you bought a 1970 to 1979 rec/reg from Mikesxs, then you do not unground anything.

No charging:

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10561

from the "Tech" section

 

[zeben75]

Yea that's the one I got and still no charge.. The problem is I am not running a startor only head light tail light and and I have a push button to turn it all on and it looks like all the wireing is good but still no charge.