Vacuum Hose Question???

Lee Harvey Griswold

XS650 Enthusiast
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Hey fellas, When I first bought my XS in the spring the guy I bought it from didnt have a vacuum hose attached from the carbs to the tank! It ran ok. but at times I didnt feel like it was running the best it could! The sporty tank I currently have on bike has the nipple on the bottom of the tank for the vacuum hose! So which side of the carbs does the hose go?? The last guy that had the bike just had plugs on the nipples on the carbs! How will this effect running once the hose is hooked up??

LHG
 
To my knowledge:

The nipple on the bottom of the tank is just for venting the tank...if you take off your gas cap you should see the other end of the vent tube.

The nipples that are capped at your carb intakes were for vacuum petcock that was on your original tank...it allowed gas to flow from your petcock when bike was running and stopped gas flow when the bike was shut off.

You don't need to do anything
 
You might want to check the caps on the vaccum barbs. If they are loose or cracked you will get too much air and run lean on that side. Once you get the carbs adjusted and synced I might suggest hooking the two barbs together with a hose. This can help balance the carbs.
 
My personal opinion is that once you no longer need a vacuum supply line to vacuum operated petcocks (to hold the fuel flow valve open). There is nothing but disadvantage left in continuing to have barbed carb holder boots. (If you're using OEM carbs) The carbs themselves have ports in which to mount a spigot for a vacuum synchronizing line.

The barb itself can come loose, leak and/or the cap fails,falls or gets blown off with a backfire and just plain adds to the air leak possibilities without justification of need. A "simpla-fi" as far as I'm concerned.

However, the biggest problem with barbs is this....they are usually implanted into the already molded rubber part and this always weakens the integrity of a molded part.

Almost all molded rubber and plastic polymer parts are like molded chains. In fact, they are just that, cross-linked (vulcanized, thermoset or crstallized) polymeric chains and are therefore, no stronger than their weakest link. They are protected by molded in skin or surface integrity effects. They are weakest at molded in knit lines and usually very much weakened by notch sensitivity by being cut, drilled, tapped or ground. They not usually well repaired to as molded property profiles. Sharp edges are to be avoided as they will almost always fail at points of stress point concentration sensitivity as well.

Pure and simple....once most rubber and plastic parts are notched, cut or abraided those cuts propogate very readily and that propogation is enhanced by a wide variety of chemicals, solvents and heat and pressure. Implanted barbs can do nothing but damage a molded rubber part.

A carb holder boot without cuts, notches, drill holes or points of high stress concentration is a far better more chemical resistant one than the opposite. No adamant need... no barb! Blue
 
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My barbed boots have lasted for thirty years, but then the whole bike is pretty supernatural.
 
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