welding table

swbill

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So I'm going to build a new welding table. This is going to be the mother of all tables. What do ya think 1\2" OR 3\8" plate for the top? I'm going to also mount my chop saw,drill press,vise and bench grinder to it so I want it quite stout.
 
Mine has the frame made from 4" eq angle & the top is about 4' square. It has a 1/4" wearplate top (Hardox450) & is plenty strong enough for pretty much anything (drill press is tacced on - can't drill through wearplate), I have had removalists move it twice - but I think they all have hernias now, don't go 3/8 or 1/2" it will be too heavy.

Unless of course you rebuild v12 CAT motors in your spare time....

Cheers.
 
i made mine from 3/8" plate and made the frame from 3/16" wall 2"x2" sq tube, very sturdy, not too heavy, and I doubt i could ever warp it with what I use it for.
 
My small welding/fixture table in the works has a 1-1/4" top. It's only 32"x42" and the top weighs about 500lbs. :laugh: They are old blanchard ground machine bases and are flat to within a few thousands across the top. Here a picture with the temporary stand I made for the two top pieces. I plan on building the stand from 2-1/2" square tube and will bolt the top to it so it can be taken apart, moved more easily, and each top piece leveled. The stand will also have swivel leveling feet.

weldtable01.jpg


The guy I got the plates from had two 1-1/4" thick 3'x3' machine bases side by side for his welding table. That thing was stout! I paid just over scrap price for the two plates. Maybe look around to see what you can find to use for a top before buying new steel. :shrug: What size table are you looking to build?
 
Ok guys, ready for a shock! 1" if you are going to weld to it and cut parts off after, thats what most shop welding tables are. 1/2" minimum for a sturdy table that you can beat on, even a 1/2" table can warp under heat and gets worse the larger the table. I would go no less then 3/8" even for a home shop. My friends table that I use for heavy stuff cost him about $2,500 to build years ago and steel has gone up :yikes: I know some will dissagree with me but if you need it flat, and I mean flat the thicker the better :thumbsup:
 
Holy shit, Travis. Overkill much? those blanchard grinders do leave some cool looking swirl marks on those flat plates. I hope you either have an overhead crane, fork lift, or never have to move it :)
 
Patches,

I actually am moving soon, so I'm holding off on making the real stand for it. Taken apart, the big piece is about 260lb and the little is about 240lbs. The stand is about the same height as the back of my truck so I slid them out of the truck and onto the stand. Then I used a 6ft 2x4 as a lever under the bottom brace to lift each side and kick a flat moving dolly under each brace. It's actually not that bad to move around. I do have an 2 ton engine hoist if needed. There are 1/2"-13 threaded holes on each corner of the plates. You can make nice T-handles for sliding the plates around and picking them up off the floor with 1/2" bolts and a piece of 1/2" round bar welded to the top of each bolt.
 
Thicker is better. I made a bench with a 1/4" top and my daughter warped it with the oxy/ acetylene torch working on a college sculpture project. The work surfaces in the fab lab at the local tech school are at minumum 1/2" and one was 2". As GS stated, parts would be tacked to them and later cut off.
 
Well I do plan on beating the hell out of it, if it warped I would be pissed (already have one warped table). The table is going to be 30"X60". How much should I expect to pay for a piece that size of 1/2"?
 
~200 if they have to shear it. 125.00 if you can find a drop piece and pay per pound (.50 cents).
 
Shit that ain't bad. I was scared it was going to be 500+. After Googling around looks like most everyone recommends 1/2" minimum.
 
I tried to cheap out @ 1/4" and wasted money... 1/2" is the way to go.
 
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