Yeah, I ordered new stainless. They came in pairs so I have an extra. Yours if you think it'll work?
-
Enjoy XS650.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS650.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
What have you done to your XS today?
- Thread starter I am Carbon
- Start date
-
- Tags
- maintenance
Oh, you’re running both lines all the way up to the master cylinder? You’re trying to eliminate the upper brake line and the manifold that is normally below the steering head, if I’m following correctly. I’ve never seen that done before.
Interesting. And a great offer. Tomorrow I will take it to work and take measurements for some comparisons. I really hope to just find some local for a Friday install but got surprised here lol..
Thanks Jim and Bob too , I see that XS1100 thread you found there..
-Randy
Thanks Jim and Bob too , I see that XS1100 thread you found there..
-Randy
Checked whats going on. Yes my intended double fitting banjo bolt is just too short. The Chinese Brake lines do have wider bodys between the flat sealing surfaces. I seem to remember Hondas having this ? I'll bet another stop at the salvage yard will sort out my hardware situation. I'll get longer single caliper banjo bolts too while digging.
-R
-R
Attachments
Haven't touched the bike for a few days because we’ve dipped back down into the 20’s and 40’s here. I pulled the trigger on a Schott Perfecto last night after getting my stimulus and I awoke to find Amazon will have the rest of my bike goodies delivered this Saturday, with a projected high of 57. Care to make a wager on what I’ll be doing...
Tiesco
XS650 Addict
Try to find these. I did at NAPA. Along with solid core plug leads.
Its a "5twins" recommend that seems great.
My stock 79 sparks just fine
Attachments
Tiesco
XS650 Addict
I plan to put an electronic ignition on it eventually. I like the Toyota corolla distributor idea I saw on another forum.
That’s what I was thinking. Got another member building a hybrid frankenbike...maybe we should start a thread for this sort of thing. Do we already have one? “Wild mods” or something?Toyota distributor? What madness is this?
Last edited:
I think he's referring to the little CDI unit inside the distributor?
Tiesco
XS650 Addict
Toyota distributor? What madness is this?
https://xs650temp.proboards.com/thread/7899/19-junkyard-electronic-ignition
Heres the thread. I've been reading up on various ignition systems people have thrown onto these bikes. All you really need is the pickup and reluctor. it doesn't really have to be out of a Toyota but this is what I saw, so I think ill give it a try. It's certainly cheaper than a Boyer ignition system.
Last edited:
Tiesco
XS650 Addict
So I scored the distributor. I got it out of an Isuzu. I couldn't finda Toyota that was old enough. The Isuzu was probably the only one in the whole junkyard. Not to sure what the pickup itself is wired to. Any guesses?
If this works out, ill do a service write up of it.
If this works out, ill do a service write up of it.
Last edited:
You'll be STYL'N!
I dropped the sump to look up in there. Wanted to make sure there was no rubber bits or guides! Woof! Nope, Clean as a whistle but... The sump strainer was torn! I did my best to warm the bike up and keep the rpms down, under 2500, till it was good and warm so the strainer would not get ripped. Lot of good that did. I happened to have a spare sump strainer for just such an occasion. I got it from Mikesxs. When I built the motor I had two. The ripped one, I just pulled out and the new one I'm putting back. Had some little speckles of metal on the magnet but not bad as you can see.
So, I get to looking at the strainers. This torn one must be a cheap one. The other, from Mikes, is about $38 bucks plus shipping. But I already had it.
I get to looking and there is NO perforated metal around the inside on the torn strainer. There IS on the expensive strainer. Have a look! The filter on the bottom is the cheap torn one. The top is the expensive one. You can see in the hole there is no perforated metal in the bottom one. On the expensive one, it runs all the way around the perimeter of the inside.
Another look. The expensive strainer has a round magnet and you can see ( Look close) the perforated metal under the screen. Seems to me if the screens are being torn by suction, the perforated strainer in the foreground would be the ticket even though it's way more expensive.
I'm sure, buried deep somewhere in these threads this information is there. I haven't seen it. I've seen welded on tabs and all kinds of stuff. So I am going to guess and say the perforated metal under the screen makes no difference? Or has, which is beyond my belief, no one ever noticed this? I pulled the oil filter to see if anything had gotten past the sump strainer.. Nope. Clean.
Ok, I pulled the side case off to check the clutch and basket. I was going to remove the basket so I could look behind and check for broken cushion springs. Something is making the ticking noise. Then I thought of an easier way. I tied the clutch handle against the perch. I pried the clutch disks forward so I could check the free play, if there was any, of the basket. Felt good. I pulled the plugs, put it in second and used the wheel to slowly turn the engine as I looked behind the basket with light and mirror. All the cushion springs were uniform and no cracks were seen. No bits of anything in the bottom of the case. It was spotless in there. Got it all back together, torqued the case hexes to 80 inch pounds, serviced it up and headed out. Put 40 miles on it. Got back and no ticking? Beats me? Used the same cometic gasket. Dry as a bone! Ticking? I got nothing.
So, I get to looking at the strainers. This torn one must be a cheap one. The other, from Mikes, is about $38 bucks plus shipping. But I already had it.
I get to looking and there is NO perforated metal around the inside on the torn strainer. There IS on the expensive strainer. Have a look! The filter on the bottom is the cheap torn one. The top is the expensive one. You can see in the hole there is no perforated metal in the bottom one. On the expensive one, it runs all the way around the perimeter of the inside.
Another look. The expensive strainer has a round magnet and you can see ( Look close) the perforated metal under the screen. Seems to me if the screens are being torn by suction, the perforated strainer in the foreground would be the ticket even though it's way more expensive.
I'm sure, buried deep somewhere in these threads this information is there. I haven't seen it. I've seen welded on tabs and all kinds of stuff. So I am going to guess and say the perforated metal under the screen makes no difference? Or has, which is beyond my belief, no one ever noticed this? I pulled the oil filter to see if anything had gotten past the sump strainer.. Nope. Clean.
Ok, I pulled the side case off to check the clutch and basket. I was going to remove the basket so I could look behind and check for broken cushion springs. Something is making the ticking noise. Then I thought of an easier way. I tied the clutch handle against the perch. I pried the clutch disks forward so I could check the free play, if there was any, of the basket. Felt good. I pulled the plugs, put it in second and used the wheel to slowly turn the engine as I looked behind the basket with light and mirror. All the cushion springs were uniform and no cracks were seen. No bits of anything in the bottom of the case. It was spotless in there. Got it all back together, torqued the case hexes to 80 inch pounds, serviced it up and headed out. Put 40 miles on it. Got back and no ticking? Beats me? Used the same cometic gasket. Dry as a bone! Ticking? I got nothing.
Tiesco
XS650 Addict
Tiesco, where is the timing advance dealt with? Is it programmed into the module or does the distributor have mechanical advance? I wonder if anyone out there is still using static timing where the advance is permanently fixed at approx. 38 degrees, even at idle?
Thank you.
Thank you.
Paul, the old GM HEI modules came in two flavors. One was 4 terminals, two on each end and the other was 5 terminals, two on one end and 3 on the other. Both distributors used mechanical advance. ( This is if were talking about his using an auto module, in other words the advance was not handled by the module in these cases.)
