What have you done to your XS today?

[GLJ]

Well the timing chain picks some of it up. There is a heavy oil mist in the crank case but the small end of the ConRod, certain portions of the crank, take a look at the oiling system flow to see where oil pressure was required. Those could be problem areas.

Prudent thing to do would be to at least pull the cylinder/ pistons and check clearances. Also look for any heat discolorations on the rods.
200+ miles with no working oil pump. What could go wrong?

 

[Tiesco]

Well the timing chain picks some of it up. There is a heavy oil mist in the crank case but the small end of the ConRod, certain portions of the crank, take a look at the oiling system flow to see where oil pressure was required. Those could be problem areas.

I didn't consider the cam chain flinging oil all the way up.

 

[thuban]

I didn't consider the cam chain flinging oil all the way up.

It will pull up enough that if you looked into the valve adjustment ports you would see some oil. How much oil? Hard to tell with the drain back holes. But I would have thought something was a miss to have to adjust valves so often. I would not have thought lack of oil but I would have thought mikes adjusters or such because I just don't have the experience with these types of failures like GLJ does.
It's neither here nor there, but I made sure every oil passage in the engine was super clean. After having the starter spring screw me 3 times then pulling the side cover and seeing how much metal was in the case, Shit, I'll kick it. I get too old to kick it, I'll ride a horse.

Now that I think about it, Ain't that much difference in riding the 650 down the road or a horse down the side of the road, people honk and wave!
I feel your pain! Most of us has been there!

 

[Tiesco]

I guess I'll take off the top end and see what the damage is down below. If the rods are shot then I have to imagine thats an expensive fix.

 

[GLJ]

I guess I'll take off the top end and see what the damage is down below. If the rods are shot then I have to imagine thats an expensive fix.

These are tough motors. Wouldn't surprise me a bit if all was OK.

 

[GLJ]

If the small end of the rod is good, you should be good to go.

 

[thuban]

BUT, now that I think about it. Nothing to do with Tiesco's problem, but if, all of a sudden you lost the rubber off a front or rear guide, wouldn't you all of a sudden have a LOT of SLACK in your timing chain adjustment? Wouldn't that tell you so without pulling your sump?

 

[GLJ]

BUT, now that I think about it. Nothing to do with Tiesco's problem, but if, all of a sudden you lost the rubber off a front or rear guide, wouldn't you all of a sudden have a LOT of SLACK in your timing chain adjustment? Wouldn't that tell you so without pulling your sump?

The front is a guide, the rear is used for adjustment. The rears hardly ever go bad. I've wondered if the front "guide" is really needed. It's a guide. Nothing to do with tension. I know radical thought caused by Corona beers.

 

[Jim]

I've wondered if the front "guide" is really needed. It's a guide. Nothing to do with tension. I know radical thought caused by Corona beers.

I'd guess that somewhere 'tween idle and 7500 there's a harmonic resonance where the chain would go bat s*it without the guide.

 

[Tiesco]

The rods and everything else seem to be OK.
Now where can I get a good camshaft?

Does the lob lift/duration/overlap of the cam vary from year to year or are they pretty much the same? Like for example a 77 vs a 79.

Can that missing pin be fabricated real quick or should i try and find it out in the real world?

 

[Jim]

I use drill bits to make pins. Reason being they're good hard metal and they come in an almost infinite number of sizes. They're actually too hard (brittle). Find the right size and before you cut it, sand it to shiny metal. Use a torch (propane works for small ones) to heat it 'till it just starts to turn blue. That'll take enough hardness away so it's not so brittle.
Disclaimer: You've seen firsthand the results of a pump failure. The best guard against that happening again is using the correct pin. Don't blame me if the pin fails.

 

[Tiesco]

I use drill bits to make pins. Reason being they're good hard metal and they come in an almost infinite number of sizes. They're actually too hard (brittle). Find the right size and before you cut it, sand it to shiny metal. Use a torch (propane works for small ones) to heat it 'till it just starts to turn blue. That'll take enough hardness away so it's not so brittle.
Disclaimer: You've seen firsthand the results of a pump failure. The best guard against that happening again is using the correct pin. Don't blame me if the pin fails.

Can this be written off as a failure though? It seems as though the pin was just removed from the shaft. I don't know if it could have just disintegrated. Is that part designed to fail?

And that's not a bad idea. I've got plenty of dull bits laying around. Cut and temper. Easy.

 

[Jim]

Can this be written off as a failure though?

Now we're gettin' into semantics...
The pump failed in it's duty to properly lubricate. Part failure or failure to assembly correctly is kinda moot at this point.... the damage is done.

 

[Tiesco]

Point well made.

 

[Tiesco]

You know, a part of me wanted to take the top end off again just to take a look. Way before this all happened. That thought was sitting in the back of my head since I first rode it. I guess I got my opportunity.

 

[Superjet]

Trust your gut feeling....it has got me where I am now.

 

[Mailman]

Can that missing pin be fabricated real quick or should i try and find it out in the real world?

What pin are we talking about? I must’ve missed it.

 

[Tiesco]

What pin are we talking about? I must’ve missed it.

see post #8029

 

[Tiesco]

Is it possible to get the cam back on without breaking the chain?

 

[GLJ]

Yes