What have you done to your XS today?

[GLJ]

so I think that my new knee is now bike-qualified.

But have you kick started it yet?

 

[Jim]

So, I know it's no big deal to you mechanics, but it's a milestone for me.

You turned away from the dark side... that's a big deal.

 

[valsvik]

The first start , but one carb was flooding, must wait until tomorrow.
Have finished installed sucessfully the "poor mans rearset" must contribute the man who wrote this . Mr Farrell Hope
https://www.650central.com/fpoor_man cafe.htm

 

[lakeview]

An afternoon of clean up in the garage and then the sun came through to illuminate the 76 I put up on the bench last fall before it got cold and pretty much have done zip to except complain about points timing. Well I got the rear wheel installed properly with the all the brake parts in the right place, but mainly so I can roll it off and put my Ozark Rally bike up there to install new swing arm bushings and change the oil.
'Tis the season, but thankfully not that one.

 

[lakeview]

.
While clearing some space I came across the box I marked cranks and see there is a an early 256 as well as a 447 waiting for my attention.

 

[member28833]

An afternoon of clean up in the garage and then the sun came through to illuminate the 76 I put up on the bench last fall

but mainly so I can roll it off and put my Ozark Rally bike up

You even gotta lift ramp ? "Dammit Im coming over" oh wait, Pete says that

 

[hotdog]

Set the ignition timing on my bobber with my new timing light. My old timing light gave up the ghost after 25 years of faithful service. I thought I'd try one of the newer style timing lights that are available today.
It's a digital dial back timing light and makes checking full advance a cinch, recommended if you need to upgrade. An additional bonus is that it displays RPM's as well.... I'm as happy as a dog with two dicks...

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Innova-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

 

[MaxPete]

Well, I need to post this in my other thread on "How Long Should It Take?", and I will, but since it is something I did to my XS today thought I would post here as well. I've had a bad clattering in the motor since I got the bike 3 months ago. Some folks said valves and others said cam chain. Being non mechanical I was scared to do either myself. BUT, after finding some step by step instructions on adjusting the cam chain I thought that even I could do that and low and behold 80% of the clattering is now gone! AND, it runs better. Feels like it is more comfortable cruising at 62-65 now, whereas before it felt comfortable at 52-55.

So, I know it's no big deal to you mechanics, but it's a milestone for me.

Thanks for everyone's encouragement.

ZACKLEY!! Stick at it Ramblin' we are all learning all the time and so there are no dumb questions and just about any issue you are experiencing has likely been faced by many others - and will be again in the future.

In all sincerity, there isn't too much you could do to really hurt your bike as long as you work methodically, follow the manual and if in doubt, ask the forum. Just do the following:

• keep the oil clean and topped up,
• don't over-tighten the cam chain
• don't make the valve adjustment gap too small (a bit looser is MUCH better than a bit tighter even if it is slightly noisier) and,
• keep the revs below 7500 RPM.

The last one isn't usually too difficult because when you get up above about 6000, the fillings start coming out of your teeth. If you keep track of all that, you should be just fine.

So - ask away.

Cheers,

Pete

 

[valsvik]

Yesterday one carb was flooding , knocked a little on it and it stopped. Let the bike stand night over to dry out with the spark plug air filter removed for that cylinder that flooded.Today it started on first try, and it run perfect and smooth. This winter I have changed the oil seal on the intake and exhaust valves with that homemade tool without splitting the head from cylinder and with the engine in the frame. And I changed the oil seal rings in starter motor and the one in the crancase for the starter. And its important to tighten very well the 36mm nut for main sprocket to the chain going to rear wheel , to avoid that oil comes out from inside the shaft and out between the bearing surface and the sprocket if this nut is too loose tighten. So far it looks that the engine is oil tight.now.
https://www.650central.com/smoking_due_to_worn_valve_seals.htm

 

[member28833]

And its important to tighten very well the 36mm nut for main sprocket to the chain going to rear wheel , to avoid that oil comes out from inside the shaft and out between the bearing surface and the sprocket if this nut is too loose tighten.

So many are loose.
Check your nuts !

 

[tzimmerm]

I’ve developed oil leaks from all over the place, looks like from the starter gear train cover, but I am more concerned about riding than wrenching at this point. I’m really going to try avoiding any engine work until I (hopefully) take it apart for a top end next winter.

 

[lakeview]

Well the 76 is up on the bench for its new s/a bushings and maybe a silver surprise.
Stay tuned........

 

[member28833]

I’ve developed oil leaks from all over the place, looks like from the starter gear train cover

Just curious as to whether you checked tightness of the sprocket nut ?

 

[tzimmerm]

Just curious as to whether you checked tightness of the sprocket nut ?

Not recently; but I retightened it last fall when I replaced my clutch spring retainers, so I doubt it’s loose again. I’ll take a peek at it soon when I change the oil. I’m going to inspect the clutch plates and try sanding the edges to address my slippage. Also still need to reroute the clutch cable between the carbs.

 

[ramblin5]

ZACKLEY!! Stick at it Ramblin' we are all learning all the time and so there are no dumb questions and just about any issue you are experiencing has likely been faced by many others - and will be again in the future.

In all sincerity, there isn't too much you could do to really hurt your bike as long as you work methodically, follow the manual and if in doubt, ask the forum. Just do the following:

• keep the oil clean and topped up,
• don't over-tighten the cam chain
• don't make the valve adjustment gap too small (a bit looser is MUCH better than a bit tighter even if it is slightly noisier) and,
• keep the revs below 7500 RPM.

The last one isn't usually too difficult because when you get up above about 6000, the fillings start coming out of your teeth. If you keep track of all that, you should be just fine.

So - ask away.

Cheers,

Pete

Thanks, Pete. What are the symptoms of an over tightened cam chain?

 

[valsvik]

Front sprocket oil leak.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/oil-leak-around-front-sproket.30483/
And on my 36 mm nut there is a groove mashined , this groove in the nut is very important and must be installed against the sprocket , so the nut can press the sprocket behind the splines on the shaft, in case the sprocket is too thin and goes behind the splines. And make sure the notches in the locking washer inside the nut meet the splines and not ride on top of them, that will prevent the pressure from the nut to the sprocket if the lock washer stopps on the splines.

 

[member28833]

Thanks, Pete. What are the symptoms of an over tightened cam chain?

Too tight would possibly increase wear of the cam chain guides.
That can be monitored with frequent oil changes and inspection of the filter.
You can put your finger up in the rear oil drain plug hole , forward, and feel in the recess searching for cam chain guide rubber chunks.

 

[5twins]

To check whether the cam chain is adjusted too tight, start the bike and let it idle then remove the acorn cover nut over the cam chain adjuster. Observe the plunger inside the adjuster bolt. It should be moving in and out slightly, maybe a MM or 2. If it's not moving at all, you've set the chain too tight. More than the mentioned movement could indicate it's too loose. You can adjust it while the bike sits there idling, in fact I think that's the easiest and best way to do it. Tighten the adjuster bolt up until the plunger movement stops or nearly stops, then loosen it back up until you get that required little bit of in-out movement. If you want to demonstrate to yourself what a too loose chain sounds like, keep loosening the adjuster bolt up until the chain starts making noise. Tighten it back up and that noise should go away.

 

[ramblin5]

Too tight would possibly increase wear of the cam chain guides.
That can be monitored with frequent oil changes and inspection of the filter.
You can put your finger up in the rear oil drain plug hole , forward, and feel in the recess searching for cam chain guide rubber chunks.

Thanks!

 

[ramblin5]

To check whether the cam chain is adjusted too tight, start the bike and let it idle then remove the acorn cover nut over the cam chain adjuster. Observe the plunger inside the adjuster bolt. It should be moving in and out slightly, maybe a MM or 2. If it's not moving at all, you've set the chain too tight. More than the mentioned movement could indicate it's too loose. You can adjust it while the bike sits there idling, in fact I think that's the easiest and best way to do it. Tighten the adjuster bolt up until the plunger movement stops or nearly stops, then loosen it back up until you get that required little bit of in-out movement. If you want to demonstrate to yourself what a too loose chain sounds like, keep loosening the adjuster bolt up until the chain starts making noise. Tighten it back up and that noise should go away.

Thanks, I'll give that a try.