What to do while the engine is out?

chopit25

chopit25

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So I went to a local welder today and showed him my concerns about the hardtail on my bike. He said it is no problem and he can fix it up right for $100 to $150 and can get it in this thursday. I went right home and tore the whole bike down to the frame in three hours. Lol
I am planning on cleaning up the engine with degreaser and for sure replacing the pushrod seal. It also looks like oil is leaking behind the sprocket. I want to eliminate the starter. I read that brass washers should replace the worn out rubber washers on the top of the engine? I've never really polished or painted anything on a motor either. The motor runs well and makes no noises or anything, very low miles, so not planning on getting into the motor.
Anyways I do want it to be clean and leak free. And since I am ordering parts and getting cleaning supplies and most likely paint and or polishing supplies I was wondering what you guys could advise me on while I have the engine out of the bike. Any help is appreciated. :)
 
>I read that brass washers should replace the worn out rubber washers on the top of the engine?
I wouldn't bother unless you have an issue.

There's lots of threads here on painting and polishing. As for me, I like polished aluminum. For painting, it's all about the prep work.

When ever working with an unknown xs650 motor, I always check the sump oil filter. They are known to rip and can cause other problems.
 
Thanks grepper. I should add that I have installed new oil, new sump filter and side filter. I have the engine running pretty well. Bike is wired except for blinkers which I have not decided to add or not. Every wire and connector is brand new. I knew the frame needed some work so I focused on getting the motor running well, the wiring done right, front end rebuilt with new oil, seals and fork tubes. New tires and tubes. New neck bearings. I do need to replace the wheel bearings before getting it on the road. The sprockets look good still but it did look like there may have been a little play in the front sprocket. Not really side to side but when you spin it with your hand it looks like maybe it could be tightened.
Right now I need to figure out what I want it to look like and get everything cleaned up and replace the pushrod seal. Plus I am going to dig in and take in any info I can get on paint and polishing as I am new to all that and can't afford to farm that out. Being poor can really make you educate yourself. Lol :)
Anyways just looking for any helpful input, tips, links that I can use to finish this bike. Plus sometimes I can read about paint or polish but I'm not always sure what they are talking about as I am a complete beginner on these subjects. That is why it is better for me to post here where I can ask questions rather than just assume I know something after reading about it. Some articles are written to someone that has some experience and are tips to expand on what they already know so terminology gets lost on me. Lol :)
 
Ugh the last part I took off the bikes frame was the lower neck bearing race. I was being real careful not to damage it and then shwing! It flew away into the yard somewhere! :banghead: I heard it thump in the grass but can't find it. Been raining a lot so haven't been able to mow so it's tall. Guess searching for that will keep me busy while the frame gets blasted and some welding done. Lol :rolleyes:
 
I guess you don't have to replace the rubber/metal washers on top of the head but I feel it's $8 to $10 well spent. Certainly better spent than $100 to $150 for a couple welds. No wonder you're poor, lol. The rubber washers allow those 4 outside acorn nuts to constantly come loose, which leads to head gasket leaks. If you don't replace the washers, add a head re-torque a couple times a season to your routine maintenance schedule.

If the sprocket nut is loose, that's why it's leaking oil. That nut needs to be tight, really tight, like 90 ft/lbs tight.
 
Chopit after changing my clutch push rod,bushing and seal I still had a leak.When I went to remove the sprocket nut to replace that seal the nut was just slightly lose.I'm sure it's wrong but like the Harley's I used my impact gun,trans in neutral and gave it a short blast.It's been a couple weeks and a couple tanks of fuel and no more leaks.For me it's a must to machine polish all the covers on the engine,after that I machine polish during winter down time and quick wipe down's threw riding season.If your fabricator knows what he is doing he will brace the frame before cutting or welding,the engine in place is never needed.If he doesn't know what he's doing you'll be the first to know.:yikes:
 
I replaced the factory rubber coated washers when I re ringed my motor but why couldnt someone simply scuff off the rubber {wire wheel on a bench top grinder) from the oem washers and run them as is (steel) with maybe a thin coat of permatex or 3 bond on the raw steel washers for sealing purposes?????
 
5twins said:
I guess you don't have to replace the rubber/metal washers on top of the head but I feel it's $8 to $10 well spent. Certainly better spent than $100 to $150 for a couple welds. No wonder you're poor, lol. The rubber washers allow those 4 outside acorn nuts to constantly come loose, which leads to head gasket leaks. If you don't replace the washers, add a head re-torque a couple times a season to your routine maintenance schedule.

If the sprocket nut is loose, that's why it's leaking oil. That nut needs to be tight, really tight, like 90 ft/lbs tight.
Click to expand...

5twins I placed an order for seals and washers and some other stuff last night. I don't mind spending a few dollars on the right parts just don't want to waste any. I have the welder fixing a couple welds, adding a cross brace, solo seat spring mounts, tank bungs, fender mounts and spacing the axle plates correctly. I thought $150 was reasonable. I don't have the equipment or know how to do it safely on my own.
I will tighten the sprocket nut down. Any idea what size that nut is? I'm not sure if I have a socket that size. If not I will measure it and get one.
I'm just looking for advice from others that have done all this before and can help me from wasting time or money. :)
 
ANLAF said:
If you are taking the covers off to polish, I would check the clutch plates while it's open.

Anlaf
Click to expand...

That's a good idea I will check them and do some reading on that. :)

I dropped the frame off to get blasted yesterday. Should have it back in a couple days. Gotta do a few things and then off to the weld shop. Still got a lot of work ahead but excited to be moving forward! :)
 
The sprocket nut is 36mm. It was the largest size Sears sold at one time, not sure about now. I needed it many years ago to remove a Virago clutch. It has since served me well on numerous other bikes, mostly for countershaft sprocket nuts but occasionally on fork or steering stem top nuts.
 
5twins said:
The sprocket nut is 36mm. It was the largest size Sears sold at one time, not sure about now. I needed it many years ago to remove a Virago clutch. It has since served me well on numerous other bikes, mostly for countershaft sprocket nuts but occasionally on fork or steering stem top nuts.
Click to expand...

Good to know. Yeah I'm sure I don't have anything that big. :)
 
chopit25 said:
.... Being poor can really make you educate yourself. Lol :)...
Click to expand...

That's the fun part. If I had the cash, I would be restoring older much more expensive bikes.

As for those sealer washers above. I replaced them on one of my first bikes. In retrospect, I didn't clean the threads properly and ended up getting false torque readings. A once leak free head, now leaks. :banghead: That's why I said that. I try to stick to the mantra, "If it aint broke, don't fix it." Because if it is broke, I probably fixed it once.
 
5twins said:
The sprocket nut is 36mm. It was the largest size Sears sold at one time, not sure about now. I needed it many years ago to remove a Virago clutch. It has since served me well on numerous other bikes, mostly for countershaft sprocket nuts but occasionally on fork or steering stem top nuts.
Click to expand...
Snap-On sells one, it is a special socket for late model Ford diesel oil or fuel filters, I borrowed one from the shop at work.
 
aldo5468 said:
Some auto parts stores are willing to loan things like large sockets, especially if you're buying oil or parts you need.
Click to expand...

That's a good idea. I looked online but shipping is more than the socket. Been too busy to get to an auto parts store. I plan to get some supplies in the next couple days as for some reason I have no panel lights in my truck also. :confused: thanks. :)
 
I got my 36mm at either Autozone or Advance, if you don't have a good Sears nearby. Not much more than smaller sockets. 12pt, but haven't had a problem with it. Sears was out of them when I needed one.
 

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