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2M, I read the link and noticed nobody said spray with PB first. I always try to tighten a hair before loosening. Works on plumbing.I have the original wrench that came with my bike,so am inclined to think it should provide the proper grip.Not sure about the tightening in opposite direction first or whether the PB will work. Link was helpful but was expecting to find more war stories. tks for the info.
If the plugs are really stuck, your little tool kit wrench isn't going to do it. You'll need a big full size wrench or better yet, a 6 point 27mm 1/2" drive socket. The plug threads are usually always wet with oil so it's not a matter of them being rusted in, they're just installed too tight to try and compensate for the bad sealing washer.
I haven't tried to remove my drain plugs. Sounds like its going to be more difficult than I anticipated. Do you cut the washers from a phenolic gasket sheet or buy them precut?
Yes, its unfortunate that many lads think that more torque is the answer, to every oil leak on their bike. I suspect that some lads are torquing the drain plugs to 80, 90 or maybe even 100 ft/lbs. That is just crazy.
40 ft/lbs is all that is required. If you need more than that, to be leak free, then you must use a different sealing washer.
If the plugs are really stuck, your little tool kit wrench isn't going to do it. You'll need a big full size wrench or better yet, a 6 point 27mm 1/2" drive socket. The plug threads are usually always wet with oil so it's not a matter of them being rusted in, they're just installed too tight to try and compensate for the bad sealing washer.
thanks I'm sure you just saved me some time and frustration. My neighbor has a 27mm socket but dont remember if was a six point. I borrowed his as the cross bracing on my bathtub drain broke. I wedged it in drain an ratcheted it out.