Drain Plugs Locked

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Both drain plugs in bottom of 75 650B locked tight! Engine has not run in years but all inside storage and tight compression. Want to put the impact driver to them but afraid of cracking bottom housing plate.

Suggestions? Advice?
 
Not an uncommon problem. Personally I wouldn't go to the impact driver yet. A socket that really fits and a longer bar will get it done. Get a buddy to stabilize the bike and give the longer bar a sharp whack with a chunk of lumber while supporting the socket in position. It will come free.

roy
 
I've had to impact quite a few. Nothing broke yet.
 
Not an uncommon problem. Personally I wouldn't go to the impact driver yet. A socket that really fits and a longer bar will get it done. Get a buddy to stabilize the bike and give the longer bar a sharp whack with a chunk of lumber while supporting the socket in position. It will come free.

roy

Hi roy,
sure; that'll work because the tooling set-up you describe IS a poorboy impact driver.
You may as well go and buy a real one, it won't be the last time you use it.
And while everyone's toolkit should include a vise grip it's not a good tool for removing drain plugs
because the drain plug's flats aren't deep enough for the vise grip's jaws to get a full bite on them,
the frame tubes won't let the vise grip sit on the plug squarely, the vise grip is too short to give the
proper leverage and if you whack on it with a mallet it'll spring open.
 
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I'd personally be more concerned about cracking the plate with a cheater than I would with an impact. I've seen this happen many times in my life since a cheater doesn't always line up the force with the centerline of the bolt, meaning, a lot of the force put into it isn't just trying to turn.
 
They seem to tighten up on their own over time. I've had to go the cheater route numerous times. 6-pt socket on a 1/2" breaker bar, old fork tube as cheater extension. Lay on my side, foot against the rear axle area, pull 'till I pass gas. I believe that's 120 ft-lbs on Fredintoon's torque chart...
 
They seem to tighten up on their own over time. I've had to go the cheater route numerous times. 6-pt socket on a 1/2" breaker bar, old fork tube as cheater extension. Lay on my side, foot against the rear axle area, pull 'till I pass gas. I believe that's 120 ft-lbs on Fredintoon's torque chart...

Heh, that's what I use too. An Ex-Norton tube.
I had a hell of a time with this as found on my CJ360T, even with the engine out of the bike.
 

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Been there,

Get a proper fitting wrench, get a younger family member to hold the bike and make sure you're cranking in THE CORRECT DIRECTION.
 
On hard to loosen drain plugs, put the bike up on the center stand. Use a six point socket, less apt to slip.
Use wood blocking under the socket/breaker bar. Get a tight fit. Get a large friend to set on the bike. Pull on the breaker bar to load the breaker bar. While holding this pressure give the breaker bar a good whack. This sends a pulse down the bar, breaking the plug loose.
Replace the worn out crusher rings on the plug and don't over tighten them.
Leo
 
Vise grip works great also.

Sorry i have to say this.

Never use vise grips on a nut or bolt head that is stuck, They are not designed to fit and will wear the edges, rounding the said nut/bolt head.

The proper fitting socket with either a rattle gun or breaker bar with a pipe or tube extension will do the job properly.

As others have said have the bike on a solid footing and have some help if unsure.

Not easy to lift one of these off when it is lying on top, that is if your still alive.
 
Well if you have the intention to replace the plug due to worn out edge, the best tool to remove it is by using a vise grip.
 
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