What would cause a stiff clutch hand-lever?

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Freddy, great thread! And happy 40th!

Now that many of us have come a long way in the clutch/worm idiosyncrasies, I can't help but think that the original problem may have been caused by a too-short clutch cable, causing the worm drive to be over-rotated, and therefore over-protruding.

If we revisit your post #20, first and second pics, you can see this over-rotation caused by the short cable.

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showpost.php?p=194326&postcount=20

Then, review this warning about contact of the worm sealcup to the engine case oil gallery protrusion.

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showpost.php?p=334625&postcount=152

There's very little clearance between that sealcup and the case bulge.

The worm drive screws out of the ramps at about 1mm per 11° of worm rotation. If that worm starts out at about 30° over-rotated, then it's already over protruding about 3mm, almost 1/8". Any more rotation, and it surely will contact/jam against that oil gallery protrusion.

The hydraulic clutch mod offered by the "German XS650 Shop" even shows a clearance issue there with their slave cylinder, and provide a clearance grinding procedure PDF to ensure that it'll fit.

Almost halfway down this page is their hydraulic clutch kit:
http://www.xs650shop.de/front_content.php?idcat=18

 

[freddy3]

Issue was settled >two years ago, so I don't really want to dissect it now. For the record, the cable was replaced twice (one OEM and one aftermarket) prior to my original post here. But I appreciate your taking the time to contribute anyway.

 

[Hitndahedfred]

Issue was settled >two years ago, so I don't really want to dissect it now. For the record, the cable was replaced twice (one OEM and one aftermarket) prior to my original post here. But I appreciate your taking the time to contribute anyway.

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An OLD thread,,, I am aware.
But the symptom was a very stiff clutch lever pull ,,,

PROBLEM SOLVED
The bloody pushrod was backwards!!

After identifying the bolt hole that fit Bob B's "line" photo (12 o'clock in the following photo), I was unable to locate any type of corresponding or identifying marks, scratches, indents, variations or whatever in bolt hole locations in the pressure plate. I also spent a good hour going over every inch of the pressure plate and going through the cycle of fitting it over-and-over again in each of the six possible positions, with none fitting in any better or deeper or tighter than any other:

Finally, I was so frustrated that I took a break and installed the foam ring that I'd left out of the worm gear's shell. I also tried fitting the gear into all four possible positions and the one I had it in was correct. Then, while I was regreasing the ball inside the worm gear it occurred to me that it was recessed. I had the narrower end of the pushrod facing the clutch and the thicker end facing the worm gear. I tried the narrow end in the worm gear and it slid in about 1/4", which seemed about all I needed. So I put the clutch and both side covers back on and....voila! I readjusted the worm gear set screw and finally had a bit o' free-play at the perch adjuster (which I adjusted). The clutch hand-lever was once again squeezeable with just my index finger and thumb and I had rolling resistance.

I would've had it all buttoned up tonight, but my kick start pedal's still in pieces. Does anyone know how to get that tension clip back around its mount without tension clip priers (mine don't open far enough to expand the clip to fit over the mount)?

(top clip is OEM, bottom is new)

p.s. I've got copper washers for the bottom four right side-cover bolts en route from MikesXS to replace the bronze lock washers I've got on there now.

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An OLD thread,,, I am aware.
But the symptom was a very stiff clutch lever pull ,,,
And the remedy was that the push rod going into the worm gear was installed backwards? Correct?
I was searching the posts as I have the exact same issue with mine.
Hrmmmmmm,,,,,thanks all for the insightful hints and tips here in this thread,,,