wheels and petcock question

slackjaw44

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Got couple issues guys, as always, on my front wheel there's a little bit of room and it makes the wheel wiggle a bit back and forth which you can see here with my front and back wheel



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why is there gaps b/n the fork and the wheel at least an inch or two doesn't make sense to me.


I ordered a sportster petcock from lowbrow customs and it wont screw into my sportster tank all the way, i don't get it pics.



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Yep from what I can see he has no speedo drive on there so it has a big gap... Check in the shop section I noticed someone is selling a part called speedo delete I think? that will fix your problem..
 
You're also missing a spacer on the rear wheel and the axle is in backwards. After reading this and your other thread on installing the carbs, I've come to the conclusion that you're dyslexic, lol.
 
you got that right! naw on a serious note this is my first bike build so i'm just stumbling around if i ever do another hopefully it will go alot smoother lol
 
You're also missing a spacer on the rear wheel and the axle is in backwards. After reading this and your other thread on installing the carbs, I've come to the conclusion that you're dyslexic, lol.

I actually have the speedo so i can slip that in there, and why's it matter what side the axel goes in on? lol
 
The threaded portion of the rear axle is a smaller diameter than the rest of it. The chain adjuster for the left side has a smaller hole in it. The axle must be inserted from the right and have the nut on the left in order to fit. It looks like you have a hardtail. If you won't be using the original chain adjusters then the direction of the axle won't be an issue probably. The chain adjusters also do some spacing though so you may need to make up for their absence.
 
Wait a second here....In #1, Slackjaw, Your asking about the frontwheel and show us a pic of the back wheel? Is that a hardtail frame? BTW I think the chain tensioners will take up that space OK......Trying to put in carbs backwards....Just a question for you...do you have a servise manual, be it Haynes, Clymer or factory? Might want to study the pics a bit longer....
 
Take a Wire Wheel to your Tank Petcock threads.

There's visible Paint or primer on them.

You'll need to get the internal seal/gasket to seal against a clean flange of the Petcock Bung.

Put a rubber stopper inside the Petcock Bung before you clean off those threads. Tape off anything you don't want paint removed from, best to be safe rather than sorry :D
 
As for the petcock, I always start the nut on the petcock first, Just barely start it. Place the sealing washer, seal or o-ring in the joining nut and then start it on the tank threads and draw them together. That way its almost equal on both sides. This only works if the threads are left on one side and right hand on the other side.
 
On my Harley tank the petcock and tank are both right hand threads. The petcock has a fine thread, the tank a course thread. With the nut threaded onto the petcock all the way, seal in place start the nut up on the tank.
Get the petcock pointed the way you want. Hold it from turning.
Now as you thread the nut up on the tank the course threads screw onto the tank faster than the fine threads come off the petcock. This pulls the petcock up tight.
On your wheel spacing the speedo drive or Hugh's deleter is needed on the front.
On your rear wheel, it looks like the frame might be made to use a bolt from the front to push the wheel back instead of the stock adjuster pulling the wheel back.
In that case a 3/4 inch washer put between the wheel and frame on each side should hold the wheel centered. You may need a 3/4 inch washer under the head of the axle and frame and under the nut as well to take up enough space to get the axle nut tight. In the pic it looks like you ran out of threads on the axle before the nut got tight.
A pic of the axle and plates from the side might help.
Leo
 
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