White Smoke on Startup

diab

XS650 Enthusiast
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Hey all. When I start my bike, shoots acrid smelling white smoke out the exhaust for a minute or two until it warms up. From what I have gathered from reading, white smoke is gas, not oil. But I'm not quite sure where to go from here. What could be the cause.
 
White smoke is oil usually. It could be from excess gas washing the oil out of your cylinders. Black smoke is usually the sign of excess gas and an overly rich condition. If this is happening every time after the bike is parked for a while, oil may be leaking down into the combustion chambers through the valves (from the topend). That could indicate bad valve guide seals.
 
I would agree with the valve seals, but I replaced them less than 500 miles ago, so I doubt that is the cause. Is there anything else that could lead to this issue?
 
Thats what mine was. Before i tore my 74 down it needed stem seals...it was like a mosquito fogger. It never quit after startup though, white smoke the whole time.

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Have you been re-torquing the head bolts aft you replaced the valve seals and buttoned it back up - did you pull the barrels and replace the head gasket too?

I torqued them down when i reassembled the engine. and yes it has new gaskets. Do i need to check the torque after initial assembly?
 
Well yes. You need to do several torque checks and (usually) re-torques after a rebuild. I'd say 3 or 4 within the first thousand miles or so. New gaskets compress after being under pressure for a bit. That loosens your just torqued fasteners. Well, they actually don't come loose. The top cover moves down away from them as the new gaskets squish. That lessens their tightness or torque. On each one of these re-torques, you should find the fasteners loosening less and less. Finally, when the gaskets are compressed fully, you will find the torque values holding steady. Still, it's a good idea just as part of your routine maintenance, to check the head bolts every year.
 
Hi, As 5twins says - yes, absolutely. It is worth bearing in mind that, IMHO, the torque values in the manuals are little low. For the large acorn nuts I for for 30 ftlb and the 8mm bolts I go for 18ftlb, the small 6mm at the rear I leave at manual spec.

Definately check these and I would be surprised if they weren't slack. Retorquing may cure your problem. If not, head off and replace the head gasket.
 
So I started up my bike today and there was no smoke... Its the warmest day that I have started it on this year, so I am assuming that has something to do with it. Any idea what might cause that?
 
When an engine is shut down, you never know which valves are open or closed, and a bad guide seal may not seep in one of those conditions.

Or, the bike knows it's going up for sale, and it"s screwing with you.

Or, you're outta oil...
 
Funnily the first thing I checked was the oil level. Thats fine. And its not going up for sale anytime soon. So what is the easiest way to check a valve guide seal?
 
... the easiest way to check a valve guide seal?

If the plugs are clean, and you suspect exhaust guide seal(s), could pull the exhaust pipe(s), and flashlight up into the port(s) while rotating the engine. Would look for oiliness and streak lines on the valve stem(s). With the valve at full lift, could try rocking it, see if it exceeds .004" movement at the valve edge...
 
Is this a classic I'm going to ignore things I don't want (or know how) to do thread?
New valve seals, Yamaha or random aftermarket out of some cheap gasket set?
 
Is this a classic I'm going to ignore things I don't want (or know how) to do thread?
New valve seals, Yamaha or random aftermarket out of some cheap gasket set? Just sayin'
 
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