Wiring up blinkers, maybe I'm retarded?

[Red Beard]

Soooo....

Read up on quite a few threads before deciding to chuck my old wiring harness and build my own. So far its been great, however I cant get my damn blinkers to flash!

They are LED and I have the proper 552, 2 pronged style flasher, which worked before and now for some reason it wont. I even replaced the flasher with a brand new one and still nothing. The blinkers will illuminate when toggled on, if the wires are just connected straight from power to the handle bar switch so I know its not the bulbs or switch. I also made sure the wires are attached to the proper prongs (X to harness, and L to brown/white which goes to stock handlebar switch) Attached below is a cut out from my wiring diagram, from what I understand it should be wired correctly but like I said..... maybe I'm retarded?

-Beard

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Are you using the LL552 "no load" flasher?

 

[Red Beard]

Using a novita 552, EL12 upgrade. From what I can tell it doesn't say "no load" anywhere on it.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Wish I could help you more, but I'm no expert with these newer LED compatible flasher relays.
Basically, there's 3 general types.

First and oldest is the thermal electro-mechanical types that require significant current flow to heat up an internal bimetallic strip that flip/flops on and off.

Second type is internally powered and regulated, and has a 3rd ground lug.

The third type are the new LED compatible electronic, which seem to be upgrades or modifieds of traditional part numbers, which adds to the confusion. That LL552 seems to be one of those that gets the thumbs-up on other forums...

 

[XSLeo]

In your diagram it shows a third wire, you tried it grounded or ungrounded. You say your 552 flasher has two prongs, Where did the third wire come from?
As you show it, you have it right. Power from the fuse to the flasher then to the switch then to the lights.
You say if remove the flasher and jumper, the lights light up. This would indicate your flasher is bad.
I like the Flasher from www.superbrightleds.com The LF1-S-flat $8.95 last I looked. It will flash a single led bulb up to a draw of 150 watts. It comes with leads to a plug. Remove the leads from the plug. Now plug the red wire into the flasher socket where the brown wire is, black to brown/white, that is if your wires match the stock colors.
Or get a two prong flasher from a parts store that is LED compatible.
Leo

 

[angus67]

In your diagram it shows a third wire, you tried it grounded or ungrounded. You say your 552 flasher has two prongs, Where did the third wire come from?
As you show it, you have it right. Power from the fuse to the flasher then to the switch then to the lights.
You say if remove the flasher and jumper, the lights light up. This would indicate your flasher is bad.
I like the Flasher from www.superbrightleds.com The LF1-S-flat $8.95 last I looked. It will flash a single led bulb up to a draw of 150 watts. It comes with leads to a plug. Remove the leads from the plug. Now plug the red wire into the flasher socket where the brown wire is, black to brown/white, that is if your wires match the stock colors.
Or get a two prong flasher from a parts store that is LED compatible.
Leo

heres a link straight to that flasher. im running only rear turns, incandescent, 10 watt draw, and this flasher will flash anything but your granny!
https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...-universal-motorcycle-electronic-flasher/193/
this one is a pin style, but you have to cut the ends off anyways. its the same as flat.

 

[Red Beard]

The wire I tried grounding was originally connected to the flasher canceling unit, my actual relay only has 2 prongs but the connector has 3 receivers since its stock. I am thinking I might order that one online and just get it over with. Could it be that the relay is too close to the coil ?

At least I know it's wired up correctly

Thanks for the replies!

-Beard

 

[fredintoon]

Hi -Beard,
the Stocker is the only flasher that works with the cancelling unit but the stocker needs the full 57Watts load on it or it'll only turn the signals on, it won't make them flash.
A 2-prong automotive flasher plugs into the stock 3-prong receptacle two ways, one works, t'other don't.
A 3-prong automotive flasher is wired up all different inside and won't work at all.
AFAIK any 2-prong flasher that says OK for LEDs should be OK.

 

[Red Beard]

So I moved the flasher relay far away from the ignition coil and bingo, they flashed perfectly! I read something somewhere about ignition coils screwing with relays in close proximity and after moving the relay about 8-12" away from the coil it flashed just fine! Anybody have a clue why?

Thank you for all the input everyone!

-Beard

 

[fredintoon]

Hi beard,
so before you moved the flasher the signals flashed OK but not when the engine was running?
You coulda said?

 

[Red Beard]

I had no flashers engine running or not at first, so I ran to autozone and got a new flasher plugged it in and started up and no flashers, didn't think to test again engine off until I thought to move the relay away from the coil. So it must have been a bad initial flasher and too close to the coil.

-Beard.

 

[XSLeo]

When I first put my superbright flasher in the place where the stock flasher was it would flash fine with the engine off but not with it running. I moved it back to the front of the battery box. Flashes fine now.
The strong magnetic field created by the coil was somehow messing with the flasher.
It might not be as bad with a stock coil but I'm running the green monster coil.
Leo

 

[Tia813]

I apologize to hijack your thread. I didn't want to start a new one since I have the same issue except mine are standard bulbs and have a new 2 prong flasher from mikes. It's wired the same as yours. The bulbs light but no flash. I have a kicker only and right now I cant start the bike because I'm waiting on oil filters sooo I'm running a 12v source at the moment. Soooo does the flasher need more than 12v to flash? Once again sorry to hijack
Thanks

 

[XSLeo]

Ok, your lights lighting indicates that your lights don't draw enough current to get the lights to flash.
Are you running LED lights? If so is the flasher LED compatible?
Leo

 

[vsop-dk]

You need resistors added to the wires when it's led... Afaik

 

[XSLeo]

No, resistors are not needed. You need to have the proper flasher, one designed to run LED's.
I run LED's with a good flasher and no resistors, they work great.
Leo