Wiring

jsmith1107

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A few questions---on the bottom 2 pictures--the one is from of the PMA and has a green and red wire---based on the top picture the red goes to the Sparx and the green is ground? Also--the red in the picture on top--it goes to the key switch right?
Ok, now the Sparx--it has 3 blades on the end of it--I know the red from the PMA goes to one--what goes on the other ones?
I am using the original left handlebar switches which has the turn switch (green wire to right, brown wire to left signal), the horn (uses pink and dark brown to horn), and high/low beam on the headlight. I have 3 wires left (yellow, green, and blue). I assume yellow and green go to the headlight? What carries power to that switch for the horn, blinkers, and headlight switches to work? The blue?
 
You're going to want to take a look at the stock diagram to match up your original switches.

Off the top, a few flags: Turns are Dark Green and Dark Brown. Light Brown is the stock switched main power.
 
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A few questions---on the bottom 2 pictures--the one is from of the PMA and has a green and red wire---based on the top picture the red goes to the Sparx and the green is ground? Also--the red in the picture on top--it goes to the key switch right?
Ok, now the Sparx--it has 3 blades on the end of it--I know the red from the PMA goes to one--what goes on the other ones?
I am using the original left handlebar switches which has the turn switch (green wire to right, brown wire to left signal), the horn (uses pink and dark brown to horn), and high/low beam on the headlight. I have 3 wires left (yellow, green, and blue). I assume yellow and green go to the headlight? What carries power to that switch for the horn, blinkers, and headlight switches to work? The blue?

Forget the question on the green and red coming out of the PMA as well as the sparx capacitor---I have that figured out.

Still not understanding the switch wires--from what I see the yellow is high beam and the green is low beam. The blue is the power coming from the on/off switch. So the headlight is figured out.
 
Some switches have different colors so how I do it is ohm out all the wires and mark down what they do. On stock switches the turn signal has its own power and you also have to look at the light wires some only allow you high beam low beam and no on/off and you got to tie in the running light too. So your lights are on all the time.You can also do it with a battery and test light also but you need to understand the wires and what they do because looking at them can be confusing. If stock switch the book does show the colors also.
 
That diagram is as most are, the main fuse is in the wrong place. If it blows it won't stop power from the PMA getting to the rest of the system.
The red wire from the regulator should go straight to the cap. The main fuse should be from this red wire to the main switch.
On a PMA the cap, or battery, which ever you use helps the regulator maintain the proper voltage to the system. The way that diagram has the main fuse, if it blows the PMA loses this regulation effect of the cap/battery. Without this regulation effect the voltage can have very high spikes, as much as 20 volts. This can burn out things like bulbs and ignitions.
On electrical I describe them as done on a stock bike. A lot of after market items use other colors for their items, so some mix and match has to be done then. Ok now on to your left side switches. The horn has power going to it on a brown wire, on the stock system most things are powered from the brown wire. The pink wire from the horn goes to the horn button. The horn button grounds the pink wire to complete the circuit.
The turn signals get power from the brown wire to the flasher, from the flasher on a brown/white wire, this brown/white wire goes to the turn switch. From the switch to each side on the chocolate wire, dark brown to most of us for the left side, dark green for the right. At each turn light has it's own ground, usually through the body of the light.
The headlight switch changed a few times over the years, the early had just three wires, later ones had up to 6 wires.
If yours has just the three wires I will assume you have an early switch, as my 75 has. The three wire colors are blue/black, power in, yellow, out to high beam, dark green to low beam.
It seems you have the rest ok.
I would start by getting the Ignition wired up, Hook a battery to it to see if it will run. Once you get it running hook up the PMA and reg/rec wired up with the cap and all. Keep the ignition hooked to the battery, run the bike this way to test the PMA. If the PMA has a problem at this point it won't hurt the ignition. If it test out ok then hook the ignition to the PMA and see if it runs.
Leo
 
Ok in the first part you explained, the red wire to the cap, got that. But then you said the red wire should have a fuse to the main switch--so I should first go to the cap with the red and then take a red from the cap to the main switch and put a fuse in between them? Correct?

In terms of getting it running--not ready for that yet--still have the carbs to get together as well as a few other things. I wanted to get my wiring run so I could get that buttoned up first I guess.

Thanks for your help Leo as well as everyone else. My thread is 76 Tracker Build if you don't know.
 
Yes, a the main fuse should be between the source of power, in this case the PMA and cap and the rest of the bike.
Ok, But as I mentioned when you are ready to start the bike it is best to hook the ignition to a battery separate from the rest of the electrics for testing.
A lot of people just hook it all up and fire the bike up and then find out the PMA isn't right when it burns up the ignition. Best to test first.
Leo
 
Yes, between the key and the red wire. No fuse between the reg/rec and cap.
leo
 
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