woot! 71 running strong

That stud looks black, from a googling.
"black zinc phosphate acts sacrificially to protect the steel"
 
You could try a very thin coat of blue loctite, over the whole stud, to seal it and arrest corrosion...
I do plan on red loctiting it into the head, would rather not loktite the acorn on it, even the weak blue stuff.
Looking closer at it, it does look coated, I was just trying to find that galvanized stud. Mikexs has them, but no thank you.
but I do need to get some odds and ends from mikes eventually, wont be soon though.
I bought 7 of these, a couple of the others, seemed a tad off-ish. But this one is a bottom stud, so it leaks right onto the header.
 
Yes, I guesse it does look like that. I feel better about useing them then. Thanks, guys. I will report back tomorow with succes, I hope.
 
Did it. Not happy about it though. I swear the drill was straight. I blocked the hole into the head with a wad of grease. Drilled as straight as I could, tapped it, put in the heli, put in the stud put on the cover...............no go. the dam stud is crooked. Even when they are straight, sometimes these covers are a bitch to get on/off.
So.....(sigh). Instead of the stud I bought, I cut the head off a bolt, and threaded a couple nuts to it, and bent it. Threaded it in, back out for more bending a couple times. Red locktite in effect. Looks fine with the cover on, but some day I will be a dreaded po. :banghead: I will see if it leaks tomorrow. I put a new seal on it, and only snugged the acorn.
 
Hi guys. I got home today, and took off the cover. it all came off fine. No accidental Loctite to the acorn(yay), and the stud is as solid as a rock. Started third kick, road it around a little, no leaks. done.
Was finally able to get a decent read on the charging, Ive got 11.5 volts at idle, and 12.5 at 3k. So....back to adjusting the regulator. Im shooting for high 13 volts at 3k.
It was mentioned someone ran with 13.5 volts @ 3k, and battery held up well, so that's the goal.
 
Over on a Suzuki forum I have guys telling me I have problems, such as a shaky stator if I get only 13.7 volts across the battery. They act like 14.2 is a requirement. Yet I have run below that and less on many old bikes for years without battery or charging issues. I tend to not worry.
 
... They act like 14.2 is a requirement...

What I'm understanding from battery tech on newer high CCA battery designs, is that these types need the higher 14.2v-14.8v to enter the 'bulk' and 'absorption' zones. A bit different from our older kickstart-only flat plate 'deep cycle' designs.

http://www.batterystuff.com/blog/3-stages-of-smart-chargers.html

Yeah, it can get complicated:

s01.jpg


3-stage.jpg
 
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Over on a Suzuki forum I have guys telling me I have problems, such as a shaky stator if I get only 13.7 volts across the battery. They act like 14.2 is a requirement. Yet I have run below that and less on many old bikes for years without battery or charging issues. I tend to not worry.

For a wet lead/acid battery, in a perfect world, it would get charged at 14.1 volts. Anywhere in the 14.0 to 14.3 volt range will do a very good job.

However,in the real world, you may get by with only charging in the 13.6 to 13.9 volt range, but your battery is not being fully charged.

Those other Suzuki guys are not acting; its true 14.2 volts is a good target voltage.
 
Angus, remember that putting the cover back on the regulator cuts its output by a few tenths. So, set it a little higher than your target voltage with the cover off.
 
The old mechanical regs can be adjusted to get the voltage you want. Just be aware that on a long run at highway speeds the tend to creep up. This can over charge your battery.
I might suggest adding a voltmeter to the bike. This way you can keep track of the voltage, if it gets too high on a long run, back off the reg a bit.
Leo
 
adjusted my regulator to day. 13 and change at idle, 14.2 volts at 3k. I rode it alittle, seems to have more power. almost hit a tree because the throttle has no slack it it. Ill fix in a few days.
 
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