XS1 and XS1B sprocket sizes

Cribby

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Hi

I need to change the chain and sprockets on my bikes, anyone know the standard teeth size for both the front and rear sprockets

Also, I’m going to change the chain so do I go for 110 link or 130 link?

Ant
 
Chain length for the '70-'73 models was 98 links (530 size) so you could go with a 100 and shorten it a little. Stock rear sprocket was 34T but a 33T works really well on an 18" wheel. Stock front sprocket was 17T and it's recommended you stay with that.
 
Chain length for the '70-'73 models was 98 links (530 size) so you could go with a 100 and shorten it a little. Stock rear sprocket was 34T but a 33T works really well on an 18" wheel. Stock front sprocket was 17T and it's recommended you stay with that.


I need to buy a chain for my xs1b. I have 17 front and 33 back. What do I need? Also does it matter whether its X ring or O ring? Not sure what to buy, there doesn't appear to be a chain available that states it fits my bike. at least not here in the UK.

Thanks
 
Aftermarket chains are usually sold in 10 link increments (100, 110, 120, etc.) so you will end up with one longer than needed and you'll need to shorten it. Just one tooth smaller on the rear usually isn't enough to allow going shorter than stock on the chain. Honestly, I rarely, if ever, count links, I just thread the chain on and with the rear wheel pushed all the way forward, I determine where it needs to be cut.

So, you're going to need at least a 100 link chain, but compare prices to longer ones (110,120). Oddly, sometimes they cost less. An o-ring or x-ring would be fine if you want to get fancy but these bikes really don't need one. They're not 100 HP tire shredding road burners after all, lol. A good quality standard chain will work just fine. D.I.D. makes one of the best and it can be had for around $40.
 
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I completely agree with 5T, I have run basic DID chains and been very happy with them, then I decided I wanted to upgrade my chain and bought an o ring chain. It’s big, it’s way heavier, it’s rated for a 1000cc bike. It’s overkill and I wouldn’t buy another for these little 650’s. My riding style is what you’d call relaxed anyways. :laugh2:
 
I completely agree with 5T, I have run basic DID chains and been very happy with them, then I decided I wanted to upgrade my chain and bought an o ring chain. It’s big, it’s way heavier, it’s rated for a 1000cc bike. It’s overkill and I wouldn’t buy another for these little 650’s. My riding style is what you’d call relaxed anyways. :laugh2:
Yes, that's a great option. I went to o'ring because they last me two or three times longer than standard chain. Historically, my riding style would probably not be defined as sedate. YMMV
 
Grind the riveted pin heads off flush with the side plate. Then it's a simple matter to tap the link out with a punch and/or pry the side plate off. This is a cam chain but the same technique applies .....

Z5zcm0W.jpg


Even if you have a chain breaking tool, you should do this first. It greatly reduces the amount of stress you put on the tool.
 
I'm in the x ring camp for a bike I plan to put miles on. If it's a go get a burger n beer bike no worries. I have had good luck with Chinese X ring chain, Volar has been working fine on the 70. I do apply a home brew concoction of moly grease and DS2 powder lube in an effort to extend sprocket life. After a 2300 smile trip on WJL including riding heavy rain, tension was still perfect and there was plenty of grease yet. I slap DID from the farm store on bikes that will just see local duty. Even on the X ring chains I use clip type master links, cuz it's easy to pop chains on and off when needed. This safety wired ML has seen thousands of miles.
master link safety wire.jpg
There's a story on why I wired that link, but it's kinda cool that it works so well and stays put.
Yes you need to grind INTO the side plates a bit to make removal fairly simple, when the pin is smooshed it expands inside the link also.
 

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