I think oil's the issue, unlike steel you can't just burn off the oil when welding aluminum.
I think oil's the issue, unlike steel you can't just burn off the oil when welding aluminum.
Hmm, I’m not sure if that’s a possibility. The crack goes through part of the shifter fork pin hole. Honestly though if I don’t have to take it all apart I’ll take itIs the possibility to weld it without disassembly investigated ?
It is a fairly flat surface and rags for protection -- wet perhaps ...can be placed inside if the side cover is removed and
On the outside against the cylinder and so .
On the inside root support ( not sure it that is the correct English word )
can be placed making the welding simpler. Even clamping it a bit. is possible
I have not welded TIG on aluminum but for other methods I would not rule the welding in place impossible.
Sticking my nose out I think I could do it and there are much better welders than myself out there
It has the advantage not warping as much as if on the table in parts.
Again TIG I have not done .But I have welded other methods And as a first assumption I would at least ask around for the top Notch people on this and Air industry have them. Showing that picture and a couple more --- listen what they say.
If that goes wrong there is the possibility to dissemble .. Again we are not talking the farmhand Cowboy trying to weld
But a experienced senior professional.
I tried to JB weld this, didn’t hold as I need to bend the chunk that came off back so the screw hole aligns. I can get the old JB weld off just fine with a torch so that isn’t an issue. In terms of turn around time I’ll be out of town for some time soon so having a temp fix now won’t do me much good.I'll just throw this out there....
You could do a temporary repair now so you can enjoy it, then have all winter to tear the engine down and have it welded. J B Weld does a pretty good job on aluminum. You'd need to clean the entire area good enough to eat off of, but it would work. The trick to getting a good bond with aluminum is wire brushing the repair just before you apply the epoxy. Aluminum starts to oxidize almost immediately when exposed to air. The oxidation is what makes for a poor bond. Use a stainless wire brush and scrub it immediately prior to applying the J B Weld. It will most likely last forever.... but at least 'till riding season is over.
Just a thought...
Is the possibility to weld it without disassembly investigated ?
I agree with Jan P.
Disassembly of the engine might not be needed. I would get an opinion on welding it as Jan P. suggested.
You are absolutely right, if this is outside the oil envelope it is not AS critical. But that does not negate the fact that it still most likely needs to be pre-heated, and without the VERY liberal use of some sort of heat dissipating compound like cool blue you do run the risk collateral damage that would ultimately lead engine disassembly. This is why case damage oftentimes leads to the eventual downfall of a bike. I do tend lean in the direction of overkill, but its served me well over the years. My professional welding comes from the food processing industry, where cleanliness is a matter of continued employment and grinding/over-welding is not an option.Mr Pyles Has Experience with this. Thank you for that input.
I would like to add the aspect of this into the decision making.
Not saying that this is certain
This does not appear to be a place with high mechanical stresses.
Not pressure inside nor Oil to speak off.
So a less than perfect weld can solve the problem. Some grinding and filler and paint .
On top of that
It may look OK also.
The tearing down of a motor is not a simple task for everyone .. Tools / Workbench / Time / Skills / Cost
Nor is the putting it together so. Quickly turns into the " No Bike Zone "
If another big overhaul is in the plan soon as per # 29 above or can happen now changes the decision.
If the rings are worn and other things .then a tear down will happen anyhow.
Myself I bought a new Block at ca 100 Euro After a Chain break Easier to find for a 1980 Model but the same engine casings are used many years.
It is not pretty and I wont have matching numbers but it is doable. .The TIG Welding is off the table
It would cost some money to do that also.( TIG )
My Chain smash happened behind the sprocket seal
Any one welded that please tell.Not taken that motor apart . Yet
My thoughts exactly. This motor only has 8500 miles on it and started and idled absolutely perfect. I have friends doing big bore kits and full engine rebuilds and it becomes problem after problem so I agree with trying to have it done in place. My main concern is the selector drum shaft where the break goes through, I’m sure it could be worked around? Depends what the welders say. For now I’m going to halt disassembly.Mr Pyles Has Experience with this. Thank you for that input.
I would like to add the aspect of this into the decision making.
Not saying that this is certain
This does not appear to be a place with high mechanical stresses.
Not pressure inside nor Oil to speak off.
So a less than perfect weld can solve the problem. Some grinding and filler and paint .
On top of that
It may look OK also.
The tearing down of a motor is not a simple task for everyone .. Tools / Workbench / Time / Skills / Cost
Nor is the putting it together so. Quickly turns into the " No Bike Zone "
If another big overhaul is in the plan soon as per # 29 above or can happen now changes the decision.
If the rings are worn and other things .then a tear down will happen anyhow.
Myself I bought a new Block at ca 100 Euro After a Chain break Easier to find for a 1980 Model but the same engine casings are used many years.
It is not pretty and I wont have matching numbers but it is doable. .The TIG Welding is off the table
It would cost some money to do that also.( TIG )
My Chain smash happened behind the sprocket seal
Any one welded that please tell.Not taken that motor apart . Yet
You know what you’re talking about and this is my baby, my dream bike, it’s worth doing right the first time. So that leads back to the original question, how do I get the advance unit off? I was able to get those screws out with a #3 bit at the end of a breaker bar but I’m not sure how to get the unit itself off. Almost like the aluminum ring unscrews?This area here around your shift drum bore is the thickest, it will require the most heat. You run a pretty high chance of distorting the bore with it in place. You may not have any actual penetration of the oil envelope but you do have contact with it, also where the most heat will be required. Given the proximity of the shift drum bore plug to the repair area it will 100% have to be removed to prevent damage as it actually protrudes into area to be welded. Not to mention the case is aluminum and the shift drum is ferrous ductile iron and these two metals expand and contract at wildly different rates introducing a whole new set of problems. The amount of heat required will most definitely destroy the main-shaft seal. And not least of all the logistics of trying to weld up under the bottom side of that case with the motor intact makes my brain and back hurt and I am certainly no stranger to out of position welding. Keep in mind just because someone is good welder that does not mean they are a good mechanic or know anything about motorcycles. I have no doubt that if you go into enough welding shops one of them will eventually agree to the job, but that does not mean its a good idea. I hate to sound all dome and gloom but I hate to see someone turn an otherwise doable repair into a failure. It is theoretically possible that a repair with the motor intact could be successful but they aren't statistically odds that I would gamble on. Ultimately it is your bike and your decision but if it were mine, Id take this opportunity to address any issues I might have in a 40yo motor.
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Yes the advance weight drive dog unscrews, It can be a bit of a bastard. A castle socket is the right tool but good luck find one. I think there is a couple of threads here on removal.You know what you’re talking about and this is my baby, my dream bike, it’s worth doing right the first time. So that leads back to the original question, how do I get the advance unit off? I was able to get those screws out with a #3 bit at the end of a breaker bar but I’m not sure how to get the unit itself off. Almost like the aluminum ring unscrews?