Yeah be sure to move the restrictor jet to after the oil cooler, otherwise the pressure getting to the head will be all wrong. This doesn't really cool the crankcase at all.
Top End Cooler by XSjohn
Used a xs850 cooler. XS750-XS850-XS1100 are the same... Works better that I thought it would and is quite simple.....
xs750. xs850, xs1100 are the same cooler. .Some even have covers.... I used that one because it lined up with the frame down low and the fittings pointed too where I wanted to go. .. I mounted it low so it wouldn't get in the way of air flow. .. Both inlet and outlet of the cooler need to be up (on top) for sure......So the oil can't drain back............FJ1100 cooler won't work right vertically..........I wouldn't try it that way it will take to much to much time to push the oil up in the cooler and the fill time will mean no oil plus you are adding a different gravity factor that could change the output from my calculations........
A big wide cooler is not what I wanted but it would work... Personal preference....The only benefit I can see for a larger cooler would be traffic but I am not sure it would make a huge difference without a fan....If you use an XS cooler make sure it has the fittings.....I ground the huge fittings off and used rubber tubing.....Clean the cooler, paint with satin paint and bake in oven 250 for a couple hrs........Ended up using a screen to cover the front (Wal-Mart stationary letter holder 2 bucks)...Need to cover the front of the cooler--70 degrees and below...Tubing could be smaller....They work......Have 2.5 thou on mine....................one with cover ---250116496853 ---In combination with a good laser thermometer tuning
you can ride them all day at 90 degrees at 225-230 head temp instead of frying them......
["]Adding the cooler drops the head temps and actually cools the lower en[/COLOR][/COLOR]d[/COLOR]….Before the cooler going anywhere in the summer even 30 or 40 miles the engine would start sounding like hell after it got fully warmed up..…Now even the hot clattering startups are gone…………Filter is a good thing too..
Remember the head temps will be down say 15 degrees but the cylinders can still get hot......Be sure of your mixtures if you plan to run hard like the expressway.....Check with infrared thermometer and play with mixtures to try to keep the cylinders below 250 degrees in hot weather....
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I don't think complete systems cool the top end oil like the cooler I designed for the XS's because the oil is moving through the cooler to quickly and is also being heated up in the main oil galley.. My cooler runs at 135 degrees at 70 on a 90 degree day at 70-75 my head will be 225-230 degrees on a 90 degree day..lower end runs at 180 degrees and the oil filter is 150 degrees... Bet you were running 275 degrees or more head temp and the cylinders were seeing 300 or more. It can fry soon if you continue doing that...Mine used to heat like that too....Your carbs may be to lean also especially if they are the newer 34s. I have beaten this subject until I feel like no one is listening.......A 20 dollar laser thermometer and some carb main needle dicking with will save a big ugly hassle and actually make these things run quite well.......I raised my needles until I found what was too much then I set them where they wanted to be....Not hard.....Just raising the mj is not the real answer for tuning them properly...Gearing would be another issue for me...
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Here is the XS cooler with screen and cover for below 70 degrees.....It is still working but has been cut back for colder weather...
Used Wal-Mart letter holder (stationary dept) for the screen and drum plastic covering for the cover...comes in a zillion colors..had some black..
It is hard to get good plug readings on short runs........I settled on a 135 with stock type air boxes and stock exhaust......If carbs are set for just plunking around they can get lean when put to real work....The hotter the ambient temp the more critical tuning is......I always set my carbs a tad on the rich side because of summer and sometimes run a hotter plug in the winter...I have to cover the front of the oil cooler at 70 degrees and below....
Not bragging but mine works 3 times a good as I ever thought it would...
I can't get over how it cools the lower end also. Spin on 145 degrees top cooler 130 degrees. It was 75 degrees today with the front covered. When the front is covered it still performs better than I thought it ever would. ...Shouldn't run the engine to cold though...seems like 225 degrees head temp is ideal for these things.....Not hard to figure...If you feel like wearing a light jacket then the front should be covered....That easy....I don't bother draining it when I change oil.....Really cold weather may build a total cover like the do the Harleys...
Engine and top end really runs quieter and smoother......
Laser tuning helps a bunch too......
A round piece of aluminum or brass and a drill and a file...That's what I did... . I don't have a lathe either.....Make the restriction as pictured above so the lip will ride on the hose as to prevent oil from passing around it or bond it in......The restriction also has to have some length to it for proper restriction.....Say 5/8" or so....
I opened the original restriction so the cooler would see the same pressure as the main oil galley.....Then meter it with the correct size restriction as close to the top end as reasonable.....Fastest way to get cool oil for hot starts.......From .116 to .125 compensates for the extra length and gravity to keep the flow as same as the stock flow......
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My design does not force more oil to the top...it just cools the oil...There is a small amount of drag in the oil flow because of the extra distance of the tubes and gravity ...Tried the original size restriction size and found it too small... Not good...have got 3000 on mine with no problems....you don't want problems....or do you....if you absolutely have to be stubborn about this open the original restriction to .125...(1/8")...Mikesxs has the original restriction....I made my restriction in 15 minutes with a piece of aluminum round stock a drill and a file... Brass would be easy to work with also...Steel would work.....
The reason for the field side restriction is so there is plenty of pressure in the oil cooler to eliminate noisy hot starts...........My design actually lets the cooler see the pressure that is in the main oil galley....
Original restriction was .116 thou at the base of the oil tube which needs to be opened up say .200 (could be 3/16 could be 1/4 inch) so the oil will move to the cooler unrestricted the restriction should be .125 on the "going to the head" far side (field side) of the cooler ....Don't change my design it works perfect...............................In other words the oil follows to the cooler unrestricted form the main oil galley...Then the .125 restriction holds back the correct amount of oil to lube the top end correctly with 120-140 degree oil..
I have really been watching everything to make sure things are ok.......Maybe a third of a gallon a minute at 3200 rpm...Sure has made mine pull the tall gears 18/29. Seems like you can go on forever and it just stays the same....Little longer warm-up and I have been covering the front of mine below 75 degrees if I am staying out of traffic
Q; what’s the flow-rate through the cooler like John?
A: ..Same as it was stock.
Here is a link to xsjohns post on the top end cooler
http://www.650rider.com/index.php?na...=Air+boxe+Mods
This is all an extract from XSjohn's thread on how to set up his cooler, i make no claim as to its workings, but he was anal about these sorts of things and spent hours measuring pump flows and restrictor sizes to get to this conclusion. and of course the miles to prove his theories
The collection of XSjohn mods is in the tech menu under "Others"
