Yam_Tech314's official build thread

Had my uncle mix me up a special color to test. What do you guys think?
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So, I sent my frame out for sand blasting and I realized I have no idea how the back hydraulic brake set up actually works. And if I'm gonna weld the mounts up for the rear master cyl, I should probably figure out how it needs to hold on... I got the specs for the welding from here, but once I get the tubing welded then what!? I'm in a bit over my head here...
 
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I got the specs for the welding from here, but once I get the tubing welded then what!? I'm in a bit over my head here...
Best thing you could do is have a good look... close up and in person at a disc brake bike. Study it, take lots of pics. My parts make it in good shape?
 
Best thing you could do is have a good look... close up and in person at a disc brake bike. Study it, take lots of pics. My parts make it in good shape?
They did make it in good shape.

Got the swingarm painted already. I'm just really unsure of how to proceed with the set up of the new rear brake. This is where formal schooling will NEVER help me. I've never welded, I've never custom built any kind of brake system...
 
I'm honestly pretty frustrated. For the life of me, I can't get this wheel to run evenly. It didn't turn out bad, but I'm sure I can do better....

Any one got any other pointers? I've put myself in over my head yet again. Why do I expect ALL things to be easy??????
 

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They make wheel hole reducing washers but a hex nut to fill the wheel/shaft gap might work too.
 
You would probably make out better if you mounted the buffing wheel on the other side so it hangs out off the bench. You could work pieces around it better like that. As you've no doubt noticed from that video, a dedicated buffer has the wheels sticking out more, further away from the motor. Bench grinders work in a pinch, but as I said, real buffers are constructed a little differently.

I don't have really good ones, just the HF offerings, but for the amount I use them, they work just fine. I built myself a little portable buffing table on wheels. Notice how the mounting area for the buffers is just wide enough for the motors. That allows the wheels to hang off the sides and makes them more accessible .....

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I do most of the buffing on the bigger 8" unit with the stiffer stitched wheels and coarse black compound. The smaller 6" unit with a softer wheel and a "loose" flap wheel is for final finishing with more high polish compounds. I guess I should mention that technically, you're supposed to have and use a different wheel for each compound.
 
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