YOU ever see one break like THIS ???

TurboFarviknugn

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ANY of y'all seen a fake oil tank / elects box break like this ? As I have not seen anyone post up anything like this. Any way When I got to work tonight went to turn off the ignition switch and the end cover is dangling there, so I go to put it back on and it wont fit, closer examination revealed split all the way across the top right along the front edge of the weld in bungs. I have sent an e-mail to the seller to see whats the dealio. Going to find some hose clamps to squeeze it back together to get home. WORST part will be removing ALL THE WIRING and fuse box to replace the tank !!!

Oil Tank A.jpg

Oil Tank B.jpg

Oil Tank C.jpg

:yikes:
 
Looks like it needs a band inside it to break up resonance. Your engine creates ultrasonic vibration that can destroy things of a given size, shape, and thickness if there is no feature that breaks up this ultrasonic frequency. Never seen one of those in particular break, but have seen many things similar break over the years. With your single point attach, that hoop rings like a bell at a given frequency of vibration. On aircraft, I have seen something as simple as an elastic band wrapped around a resonant structure prevent this. The intake frame of a Pratt & Whitney JT15D-4 comes immediately to mind. They destroyed air inlets with high cycle fatigue cracks (vibration) for a couple of years til a 1/4" thick silicone band was installed around the housing to change it's frequency.
 
I would have but some kind of rubber washers in there myself to prevent vibration but the way that cracked it honestly just looks like it was a faulty piece of metal to begin with...
 
Your engine creates ultrasonic vibration that can destroy things of a given size, shape, and thickness if there is no feature that breaks up this ultrasonic frequency. On aircraft, I have seen something as simple as an elastic band wrapped around a resonant structure prevent this.

AGREE'D, Many things on this thing have broken from vibration to include the 1/8" thick side mount license plate / tail light mount, fixed that had to build a new one with used some 1/8" steel rod to build a weblike structure behind the 16ga sheetmetal mount, no more problems there.

Guess I got something to use those Lance Armstrong "LIVE STRONG" Bracelets for now.:laugh:

I have an e-mail into the company I bought it from they are a pretty stand up company we will see what they say.

The rolled metal did have quite a bit of outward stress on it, I really had to crank the hose clamps to get it to close up to get the end cap back on. :bike:
 
I was having all kinds of stuff break like that on my bike. I finally had the hardtail cut off and redone using 120 DOM. The old hardtail was thin wall junk with an 8" stretch. It was causing so much vibration it was destroying everything. My new hardtail is about a 3"-4" stretch. There is virtually no vibration in the rear anymore. It's not not having to replace tail lights every 500 miles.
 
I have pretty much put rubber isolators on everything else, never thought this sucker would break, I will be installing some rubber at the mounting point when I fix'er up. The WORST part is having to remove ALL the wiring from the thing before I can do anything with it. I wont say as of yet whose tank it is until I see if the MFG is willing to work with me on this issue (Fingers Crossed being SEQUESTORED SUCKS !!).

How ever if I had the money to spend all over again, there is a nice little unit on e-gay that has an ignition switch provision coming out at about a 45 deg angle.
 
I am no expert on the subject, but I noticed something. The piece broke around where it is welded to the two stantions that support it. Is it possible that when the piece was welded to the two stantions that it was heated up to much causing the metal to weaken across the piece. Look at it in the pictures, its a fairly clean break straight across, except where the welds are. Then the break curves around the welds. Just my observation.
 
I am no expert on the subject, but I noticed something. The piece broke around where it is welded to the two stantions that support it. Is it possible that when the piece was welded to the two stantions that it was heated up to much causing the metal to weaken across the piece. Look at it in the pictures, its a fairly clean break straight across, except where the welds are. Then the break curves around the welds. Just my observation.

I've been waiting for someone to notice this. It looks like that's exactly what happened to it IMO. You (or whoever welded the bungs in) likely work hardened the tank in that area...making it harder...but much more brittle. That or the heat caused a hairline stress fracture that worked its way into the crack you see now thanks to the vibrations. Its interesting tho, that is a dam clean break, with the exception of the welds.

Check the inside , is that where the pieces are connected? Mine is two half cylinders tack welded together inside....so I went in and beefed it up some...we'll see if it holds lol.

That's the pain with these hardtails.....i'm onto my 3rd tail light now, and my actual license plate is cracking in half....
 
can we get a shot of the mfg welds when u take it off? around the mount bungs?
Im thinking the toe on those welds was not proper, leaving a sharp edge between the weld, and parent metal. That crack is a Monster!!
 
Piping/tubing is usually made by roll-forming flat sheet, welding the seam, then machining or drawing the pipe to remove the weld bead. Could be just luck of the draw when the bungs were welded in, just happened to align with the inner/hidden seam, and weakened it....
 
So I actually sent a pic of this over to the welding instructor at my school for him to take a peek at. He basically verified what we've been theorizing over here. First problem was the hard mount. He said he thinks the welds were also probably a bit too hot, and the surrounding area became brittle.
 
It happens, It goes with the territory of doing a custom build. I've have lots of hard mounted stuff break on me. Now I do a sort of metal tube and rubber bushing set up.
For example.
Here's some hardware I used to make a turn signal mount. Note the bolts, metal tube and rubber hose.
2011-08-02_22-17-16_108.jpg

The bolt feeds through the metal tube, then rubber hose squeezed over it, cut into sections, with washers on either side.
2011-08-02_22-30-47_617.jpg
 
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