Watch this video. He uses a light. Just use your meter and look for 12V when his light comes on.
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-Xs79-
- Thread starter LanzSilva
- Start date
¿Estableció la brecha correctamente ... como muestra el video?
Did you set the gap correctly... like the video shows?
I'm using Google Translate to hopefully use both our languages. How well is that working?
Estoy usando Google Translate para poder usar nuestros dos idiomas. Que tan bien esta funcionando?
Did you set the gap correctly... like the video shows?
I'm using Google Translate to hopefully use both our languages. How well is that working?
Estoy usando Google Translate para poder usar nuestros dos idiomas. Que tan bien esta funcionando?
With the points wire unplugged see if opening the points shuts off the light, if not the issue is how the points are assembled, carefully check the washers, spacers where the wire attaches.
I'll keep using it then. Hopefully cut down on miss-communication.
Seguiré usándolo entonces. Esperemos reducir la falta de comunicación.
If the light stays on it means either the points aren't closing to complete the circuit to ground, or perhaps your motor is not properly grounded. Since your motor was removed, that's a good possibility.
Si la luz permanece encendida significa que los puntos no se están cerrando para completar el circuito a tierra o que su motor no está conectado a tierra correctamente. Desde que se quitó el motor, esa es una buena posibilidad.
Seguiré usándolo entonces. Esperemos reducir la falta de comunicación.
If the light stays on it means either the points aren't closing to complete the circuit to ground, or perhaps your motor is not properly grounded. Since your motor was removed, that's a good possibility.
Si la luz permanece encendida significa que los puntos no se están cerrando para completar el circuito a tierra o que su motor no está conectado a tierra correctamente. Desde que se quitó el motor, esa es una buena posibilidad.
If the points are badly worn, they may not close properly and make good contact. Pry them open and look at the mating surfaces. Are they all pitted up? Points are a wear item and must be replaced from time to time. Once they wear too much, they can quit working.
To help you understand what's happening, the lights on from the power through the coil, to the points. That power then goes to ground through the light, turning it on. When the points close, they become a better path to ground. The 12v will then go to ground through the points and not the light... the light goes out. Power goes to the path of least resistance.
Para ayudarlo a comprender lo que está sucediendo, las luces se encienden desde el poder a través de la bobina hasta los puntos. Ese poder luego va a tierra a través de la luz, encendiéndolo. Cuando los puntos se cierran, se convierten en un mejor camino hacia el suelo. El 12v luego irá a tierra a través de los puntos y no la luz ... la luz se apaga. El poder va al camino de menor resistencia.
Para ayudarlo a comprender lo que está sucediendo, las luces se encienden desde el poder a través de la bobina hasta los puntos. Ese poder luego va a tierra a través de la luz, encendiéndolo. Cuando los puntos se cierran, se convierten en un mejor camino hacia el suelo. El 12v luego irá a tierra a través de los puntos y no la luz ... la luz se apaga. El poder va al camino de menor resistencia.
Pictures are a little fuzzy, but yeah, those look pretty badly pitted. You could clean them up with some 400 sandpaper just to see if the engine will run, but I'd replace those.
Las imágenes son un poco borrosas, pero sí, se ven muy mal. Puede limpiarlos con papel de lija 400 solo para ver si el motor funciona, pero los reemplazaría.
Las imágenes son un poco borrosas, pero sí, se ven muy mal. Puede limpiarlos con papel de lija 400 solo para ver si el motor funciona, pero los reemplazaría.
Muckroot
XS650 Addict
Get a clean place to rebuild your engine if you decide to do that. I personally opted to pitch a tent in my back yard and tore the engine down in it. It is way too easy to misplace or lose some little bearing, spring, bolt, or any of the other hundreds of individual parts in the XS engine. It'll make your life loads easier when you don't have to search more than a 6 foot by 6 foot space for that clutch rod ball bearing (ask me how I know). Also, the design of the XS engine is fairly compartmental, so you should make use of zip lock bags or small bins to sort the parts into groups to make reassembly easier. for example, the shift mechanism fits nicely into a small tray, as does the clutch basket and bolts, the crank gears, and the top end parts. Other than those practices, the XS engine isn't really that much more complex than a dirt bike motor. If something doesn't feel right STOP. there are so many resources online for this bike that it's silly not to spend a day or two figuring out exactly how to install a certain gear or bearing correctly. Best of luck to you, and post lots of pictures!
Do some searches on 3 Phase Rectifiers or automotive regulators..........these are preferred over solid State Reg/Rect...........need to do some basic wiring your self
.Here is a link to a Points, Type B Solid State Reg/Rect......http://www.xs650.com/threads/wiring-in-a-70-79-combined-reg-rect-to-a-points-model-xs650.52339/ ....Points, type B,combined SS Reg/rect should have 2 wiring tails as per the wiring/pics in the thread
http://www.xs650.com/threads/pre-1980-regulator-non-nylon-screw-version.10699/#post-109435
post 2........has a few different automotive regulators that can be used for a points bike
http://www.xs650.com/threads/3-phase-rec-worth-a-shot.53317/#post-568095
Post 8......shows the factory wiring for the Regulator and Rectifier. Shows how a SS Reg/ Rect would need 2 sets of wiring tails to accommodate 2 separate components
post 15.......Shows a pic of a 3 Phase rectifier and automotive type B regulator wired up
.Here is a link to a Points, Type B Solid State Reg/Rect......http://www.xs650.com/threads/wiring-in-a-70-79-combined-reg-rect-to-a-points-model-xs650.52339/ ....Points, type B,combined SS Reg/rect should have 2 wiring tails as per the wiring/pics in the thread
http://www.xs650.com/threads/pre-1980-regulator-non-nylon-screw-version.10699/#post-109435
post 2........has a few different automotive regulators that can be used for a points bike
http://www.xs650.com/threads/3-phase-rec-worth-a-shot.53317/#post-568095
Post 8......shows the factory wiring for the Regulator and Rectifier. Shows how a SS Reg/ Rect would need 2 sets of wiring tails to accommodate 2 separate components
post 15.......Shows a pic of a 3 Phase rectifier and automotive type B regulator wired up
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This is a good option for regulator?
Attachments
Your alternator stator is off an 80 or newer bike. That would be wired for the 'A' type regulator. So what you need is gonna depend on how your bikes wired.... for an 'A' or 'B' type regulator. Have a read here.
As long as it's a type A... and your bike's wired for a type A... yes, it should work. The XS650 only puts out about 20A (on a good day
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