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Hi all..
It has been a while since I strugled with the bike.. The issue with bad ignittion and oily spark plugs leading to misfiring was anoying me a lot.. Finally I found out that after former owner changed to the Lukas Rita ignition he did not change the coils.. The coils was the of the...
Thanks for info. I'm totally with you on your info above. I have in fact some knowledge about the topic.(You could of course not know that :-)
I have re shimmed many WP forks for myself and others and lately modified and rebuilt my own EXC300 enduro bike with Kreft valves and shims to overcome...
Ok.. so then I got the winning bid.. Ended up with 158 GBP to my dor.. Not so bad. ( if the Norwegian VAT of 25% are left out :) Not likely though.. )
The springs has the numbers 46-20-30-200.. 46 is the inner diameter 20 and 30 is the progressive spring rate in N/mm and 200 is the length.
The...
OK.. Thank you for information..
The ones I'm bidding on is for a Honda CB1000.. It is hevier bike than the XS 235kg.. so maybee not so sad if they slip away..?
Hi Guys.
I Need new shocks as the ones that was on the bike when I bought it two years ago are crapp! (some universal stumpy shit :shrug: )
I searced the forum and found this tread to be the most recent re. rear shocks..
My question is wether I can use 350mm YSS shocks like these or if they...
I live in Norway-- not so many Us cars here around..
I did yesterday order a new pre 79' one from Yambits.(67£ to my door) I have good experience with them and delivery time.
:offtopic: ---- I will most likely have it on Friday or early next week in due time to have bike ready for this very...
Hi Gary
No it is a solid state one from Electrexworld.co.uk regulator..RR35 which should be right for 1970-79 XS650. https://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/RR35.html.
I have ordered this one on e-bay...
Yeeessss!! :bike:
I did think the same Gary but as you wrote in your first post #3 about putting the green to ground.. I did not quite understood. But jumping +12V to the reg/rectifier connector did the thing! got 15,9V at the battery, blinkers and everything but the reg. works now fine.
I take...
Ok.. So did a test this morning.. No charging.. Is it normal/correct to have 12V between battery plus and both the brushes when engine is running? Must be a short some where? Next step is to test voltage on brown and green wire.. I understand that reg/rec. need +12 volt/battery voltage to...
Ok. Thanks for tips! I agree to only test the rotor resistance without the brushes in series.. However I found an assembly error to the outer brush measuring between 10-11 Ohms and that was for sure not gonna work..
Well...I took a new measurement of the rotor now and the readings I got just after the ride was like 10,5 Ohm (inclusive brush)... !!!!!!
I then took the outer brush off again and it must be that the brush was somehow stuck with bad contact to the rotor.
I also must have measured wrong earlier...
Hmmmmmm... it drained from 12,5v-10,7v during a 20 min test run. I hate that only 1 Ohm shall be that important.. :-)
Had any luck cleaning the rotor with any solvent like brake cleaner etc.?
I'm thinking more and more in the direction of a PMA kit.. change out the old shit but on the other...
Well.. sad news.. :-( Despite received and installed new brushes it will not charge.. I honestly do not know what to do further... I have in order a new reg/rectifier...
I measured the white wires from the stator and it seems i get 0 Ohm between them...?
Is that correct?
Edit.. New measurement with correct setting on the Fluke showed 0.6, 0.7 and 0.7 Ohm and also fully open towards ground.
Should be ok then.