Recent content by riksoto

Hello, My source was in a bad motorcycle accident and closed his business and sold off all of the machinery of the to pay his medical bills. All of his notes and drawings are lost. I don’t have any of the information for the gears. I’m sorry and wish I could be of more help at this time...

I agree with TwoManyXS1Bs. My main reason was to reduce the torque through the gearbox when you increase the power of the engine. I changed the rear sprocket to get back to stock engine speed and vehicle speed. That being said your desire to drop engine rpm is also easy to accomplish.

I am working with a long time (40+ years) Race motorcycle mechanic/Machinist Craig Hanson in Chico, California 1-530-342-8049. Craig was a competitive racer for years in the US. Craig has worked in the UK and the US for well known race companies. We have looked at many issues with the XS650...

Check out this post. http://xs650temp.proboards.com/thread/3341/solid-state-regulator-14-99#page=2 Good picture with instruction. V/R Riksoto

Did you try a jumper from the neutral switch to a good ground with the key on? That is a quick easy check then the bulb that can be harder to get to. V/R Riksoto

I would, 1...remove the left side cover 2...break the clutch adjuster nut loose 3...pull the clutch lever 4..with the lever pulled, while observing the cable to adjuster arm angle, adjust the cable at the lever perch until 90 degrees and lock in place, release the clutch lever...

Post the instructions with schematics to help understand your delima. V/R Riksoto

Make sure that the filter mount stop flange in the filter is not blocking the air bleeds for the carb. that is a known issue with some filters. V/R Riksoto

Thank you for the info. The new gears will have needle bearings as well. I may have appeared antagonistic, that was by no means my intention. I have no arguments with the info you have provided, just a different way to look at the same info. I am attempting to give more options to those...

The 1st to 2nd gear ratios of a 1970 transmission are better than the other years but the rest og the gears are the same ratios. V/R Riksoto

Thank you for the renewed interest in the gears. I just need a few more commitments to put in an order. At that time I will require full paypal "GIFT" payment so there is a record of the purchase and protection for both of us. This is my second order and I had conducted the sale the same way...

Once again you make a good point on th HP side of the equation, but this is RWHP with stock primary gears. Let's change the gears and by doing so reduce the engine sprocket torque by 20.5% allowing us to increase the engine HP(if my math is correct close to 90hp to the wheel) without changing...

I use welding cable for all battery cables, they are very flexible and are designed to carry lots of amps. For the ground I like to weld a stainless bolt to the frame and attach the crimped ground lug. I also remove all paint from engine mounting points on the frame to ensure a good ground...

You are 100% correct!!! When the load is placed on the engine the clutch speeds up 115 rpm at idle and 478 rpm at 5000 rpm. The oil drafting is increased by 20%. That increases oil temp, breaking down the oil faster and it can't do the right cylinder any help. By changing the clutch...

I am working on a prototype clutch now and should have it up and going this summer. V/R Riksoto