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the only reason i can think of is already included in the quote from hugh (hugh's home built):
AND, you can run both if you like, a Capacitor and a battery, that way if a battery craps out, you can still get home on the cap :wink2:
Hugh
if one wires BOTH battery AND capacitor, does it matter which comes first? or is the order irrelevant because they're parallel? any extra fuses involved?
that's good information, thanks. i'm leaning toward replacing the capacitor with a small lead battery. i'm tired of capacitors; i don't know enough about them. it'll still be kick start only so i don't need to worry about a huge battery box...
the capacitor from tcbros is JUST SHINY BLACK. there's a raised plus sign and a raised minus sign. and a mysterious blue dot. no numbers or anything informative.... hugh's handbuilt used to be down the street from me. but back then i had a harley..he's semi-retired, i guess...i might go ahead...
that was how my old triumphs were wired. my 'battery eliminator' doesn't have the spring; it's got a rubber lined bracket. the reg/rectifier is pretty modern looking. the capacitor has a 'blue dot' on the top... maybe that is something significant. if this acts up, i'm installing a battery.
a new 'battery eliminator' capacitor arrived the other day from tcbros. the bike started right up and ran with power. but why did it fail to begin with? how susceptible are those capacitors to heat, vibration, variations in charge...etc? i'm going to start cobbling up a small battery box in case...
been running my 1973 xs for several months. started stumbling, had to pull over. it will kick start but no power. it has a battery eliminator (capacitor), a PMA, centrifugal spark advance. otherwise, it's pretty normal. here's my question: DOES A BATTERY ELIMINATOR (capacitor) FAIL? what does a...