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Hey, SFTU? I applaud all the ingenuity and skill and imagination it takes to modify or improve any bike. All I'm saying is enough already. The XS650 has been chopped to death. They all look the same, just like Harleys do. Hmm. I'll paint it black, put some chrome on it, and add a Maltese cross...

The swingarm looks naked and flimsy. I'd brace it.

I doubt anybody here would notice, but the good old XS650 no longer exists. How so? They were all chopped to death by guys enamored with the Teutels and tattoos and being a bad-as$ outlaw. XS650s were relatively cheap and anybody with a chainsaw--I'm not making this up--could hack and whack...

Oh, the XS650's not bad, but nothing like anything new from Japan at least in the last 10 or 20 years. The clutch plates still drag a little no matter what you do.

How about a clutch mod that would help these bikes shift bette?

Oh, it's another chopper? Who needs it?

1977 Suzuki GS750. I learned on this bike but never owned one. I wish I did. Nothing zings like a GS motor. A terrific bike. Great in its day and still great if updated. 1978 Honda CB750F. Hooker headers, 29mm Smoothbores, Koni shocks, air forks, Martek elec ign, bronze swingarm...

I saw this on the SOHC4 forum or on the DOHC Honda 4 forum. It seems to work well. I assume you have to separate and disassemble anything rubber or plastic. I understand with Yamaha's carb cleaner you don't have to. I'd try that stuff then.

No, that should do it, though you probably need new valves because your ends are probably mushroomed. You might want to get the oil seal kit while you're at it. Installation is straightforward. If I were doing it again, I'd buy the new cylinder/big bore piston set. It's a good deal.

$110? And this part is 31 years old? Wow. I'm going to sell mine when I remove it. Why not get the pamco? Or a Boyer?

The TCI is perfectly fine. In fact, I bought a 1980 XS650 mostly because it had one rather than points. But if you're going to change the charging system, which is a real weak link on these bikes, you'll have to change the ignition on an '80-'83. If so, I'd get the Boyer for the reason...

We'd been hearing for quite a while that he wanted to retire anyway. I hope he and his wife are happy. I appreciated all he did for us and never had a problem with anything except a clutch cable that broke. For more technical matters there's always great advice and excellent service from...

My original reply about the superiority of the Boyer Bransden seems to have been removed. I said that it was superior for the reason stated. Its advance is electronic, not mechanical. A mechanical advance is going to wear and the timing could vary. Maybe this matters, maybe it doesn't but no...

The Japanese electronic ignitions are not known for being failure-prone. I suspect your reg/rect. If you replace the ignition, get the Boyer Bransden. It's superior to anything else and worth the extra $75. No factory put a mechanical advance with an electronic ignition, which should tell you...

Get the Boyer. It's worth it.

Well first, realistically you can only do about 250 miles a day, 300 max. I have averaged 350-400 but it makes you pretty sore in the shoulders and butt. Take ibuprofen. Stay hydrated. Avoid the interstates. What's the hurry? I would get the 32 tooth rear sprocket. You will not want the...

I have a 1975 Honda CB400F and a 1982 Yamaha XZ550 Vision that's almost restored, but I just can't get rid of my XS650. It's sort of bad-a$$, it looks beautiful, handles great, and is just fun. It's hard to describe. Mine is built up to a 750 and modified, and the stockers are, frankly...

I know everybody here likes cheap, but the Boyer-Bransden's a better ignition. It eliminates the mechanical advance completely. And the Sparx Permanent Magnet Alternator is way better than the Banshee nonsense.

Looks like it's both, which is not a surprise. You'll need an pneumatic wrench for the primary drive.

Hell, why not? Because 10.5: 1 compression on a street engine is a grenade waiting to happen. I'd put the gasket in and call it good.