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I have a XS 2 with a repo Mikes XS Petcock. I am trying to find a M7 x 1 brass elbow with Brad end for it, but I come up blank. I have found NPT 1/4 inch that look right but I doubt the threads will work. Dennis Kirk does not have any and Lowbrow didn't pickup the phone. ANY known sources out...

Thanks Angus, I will try to remove that tube tonight and let you know.

Did you replace the pilot jets with jets in a kit???? Yes Did you replace the needles with ones in a kit???? Yes If so which kit and did you save the old brass???? No all. Appears I only have a 42.5 pilot a 130 main and a y22 needle in my extras box. Tore down the left side carb tonight...

Twomany, one of the bodies has 306 2x5 stamped into it a code I could note find in th carb guide or on the mukuni website. I will print out your attachment. Thanks. Chiller, yes, I moved the clip up put more needle in the hole which I thought would lean. I also rested that plastic disk on top...

Another pic

Thanks Ippy & Leo. Please educate me. I do not know how to ID the carbs, and. Have not come across a resource to help with that, maybe I missed that. Am trying to upload pics to help with the ID.

Thanks for the reply! Per the carb guide chart, these BS 38s use with the 42.5 pilots, but my bike dies when you hit the throttle. Per the guide- "A very rich condition usually causes break-up or stumbling which gets worse as you apply more throttle. Just off idle, this would indicate too...

Trying to get my BS38's tuned. XS2 starts fine, idles nice and low, but as soon as you hit the throttle, it bogs down and dies..seems like a too rich condition and this is my assumption. Feel free to correct me if I am wrong. When I remove the carbs the throttle plate/valve is soaked in gas...

I need rear pegs. They need to fit on a 73 frame...

..PM sent..

Still have he fender? ,

New plate ordered!

Just had the wife hold a plug against the cylinder to check spark as it kicked it. Bike started up halfway through the kick one one cylinder. Nice bright blue spark. Thanks for your help guys would have never found that fault without you. Questions- 1) Without the diode, am I reducing the...

So I used my diode tester function for the first time a few minutes ago as per the instruction manual. Set to the diode test setting, without the leads touching anything the display read OL (overrange). With the leads on the ends of the suspected diode (black cylinder) the display read "0" in...

Wait, Is the diode the blue cylinder or the black one? I just tested the black plastic cylinder for the first time and it has continuity to ground to both soldered terminals in every configuration of the leads.....maybe this is the diode? Is the blue cylinder with the stripes a resistor?

Just tested the blue cyclinder (diode?) in both directions. The top terminal does not have continuity to ground in either direction. The bottom has continuity to ground in both directions.

How many cases and what flavor do you prefer? I can be at Harris Teeter in 5 minutes!! Just south of 485 on Rea Rd, near Stonecrest.

I just tested the top soldered terminal and the bottom soldered terminal of what I think is the diode for continuity to ground. The top does not have continuity to ground but the bottom does. Does this mean the diode is ok?

The diode is the blue cyclinder shaped item with the stripes, correct? How do I check a "short in both directions" as you suggest me to do above before I clip off the diode? BTW, I am beating my head against this bike in South Charlotte, NC, not too far from you, Pamcopete. Thanks to...

With the red power wire connected to the Pamco smaller red wire there is continuity to ground (cyclinder). With the red power wire disconnected from the pamco, no continuity between the power wire and ground. There is continuity at the circuit board between the red and black soldered...