1981 electric starter rebuild

happydaze

John
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Hello,

My starter has what is probably a common problem. It only works well when the engine has warmed up. It chugs sluggishly when the engine is cold, and is more likely to drain the battery than to start the bike. I always kick start the bike but I would like to fix the electric starter if possible.

I took it to a bike shop yesterday and the mechanic said that it's not worth trying to fix because it would be too expensive, and that I should forget about it and just keep kick starting the bike.

The 650wiki doesn't really discuss electrical problems. It's not a problem of the gear grinding or not engaging. I noticed that MikesXS sells the relay and brushes, and the Clymer book explains how to take it apart. Are those the only parts that usually go bad? I also have a replacement cable. The Clymer book illustration is not clear regarding how the cable attaches to the starter motor. Have people had success rebuilding their electric starters? It looks like you don't have to take the whole thing apart to replace the relay & brushes. Worth a shot?

Thanks for any advice.
 
Any work on the starter needs the starter removed from the bike. The cable that runs down from the starter relay can't be unhooked from the starter with it on the bike, you can loosen the cable, then take the starter mount bolts out and wiggle the starter around so you can get the cable off, but at that point you have it almost out anyway.
To replace the brushes you need to disassemble the starter. There is an oil seal that keeps oil out of the starter, if it leaks it can fill the starter with oil. This can damage the brushes.
Once torn down, you can replace the brushes and the seal. The armature can get worn enough so the brushes don't contact as well.
Clymer book, page 82 tells how to tear down, inspect, repair the starter.
Leo
 
I would imagine that sliding the engine back as the book suggests means disconnecting the exhaust at the cylinder heads first.
 
Hello,

My starter has what is probably a common problem. It only works well when the engine has warmed up. It chugs sluggishly when the engine is cold, and is more likely to drain the battery than to start the bike. I always kick start the bike but I would like to fix the electric starter if possible.

I took it to a bike shop yesterday and the mechanic said that it's not worth trying to fix because it would be too expensive, and that I should forget about it and just keep kick starting the bike.

The 650wiki doesn't really discuss electrical problems. It's not a problem of the gear grinding or not engaging. I noticed that MikesXS sells the relay and brushes, and the Clymer book explains how to take it apart. Are those the only parts that usually go bad? I also have a replacement cable. The Clymer book illustration is not clear regarding how the cable attaches to the starter motor. Have people had success rebuilding their electric starters? It looks like you don't have to take the whole thing apart to replace the relay & brushes. Worth a shot?

Thanks for any advice.

This may indicate your battery does not have the capacity to provide enough amps when the engine is cold (thick oil). The starter motor is very much a "load test" for the battery.
The battery can have enough amps/voltage to give a hot enough spark while kicking, but just can't give the amps for the starter motor.

You should also remove and clean the connections on the large cables from the battery to the starter relay and the cable leaving the starter relay. Remove and clean both ends of the battery ground cable, making sure it contacts to bare metal on the frame.

The battery could be weak because the charging system is not fully charging the battery. When you rev the engine to 3000 rpm or more you should see 14 volts or better at the battery.

Using a fully charged battery, connect your VOM to read voltage at the battery terminals. Watch the voltage as you push the starter button to crank the engine. The voltage should not drop down less than 10 volts, if the battery is good.

If the battery is more than 6 or 7 years old, it may be worn out.
 
Thanks. I do believe I need a new battery but this is not a new problem. My AGM has lasted 5 or more years (I can't remember). I have the Battery Fighter (odd choice of names) AGM charger from Mike's XS, and I do believe that it makes a difference having quickly killed a previous AGM battery with a different charger.

I have replaced the cable from the battery to the starter relay and I have the other cable but have not delved into that project yet. I haven't done a voltage test this year but I should. I have spent some time going through the electrical system and have replaced the alternator brushes, and I have met UK and his lovely wife and I have YWE if you know what that means (it was a gift from UK).
 
This won't help your current problem much but adding a voltage meter on your bike will help see charging problems before they get very bad. This one saved me pushing my bike home.
You can keep a constant eye on alternator output.
This one was about $5 at Harbor Freight. They can be found at most auto parts stores or online. Analog like this one or digital.
Leo
 

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