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Crack in crankcase.
- Thread starter Dancingratt
- Start date
That's not too bad, not a structural area, but if not addressed the crack could progress and leak oil.
The best way is teardown to bare case, and have it welded...
The best way is teardown to bare case, and have it welded...
Dancingratt
XS650 Member
Dancingratt
XS650 Member
Dancingratt
XS650 Member
How far do I have break it down to.
Can I get it welded as is ?
Can I get it welded as is ?
I would take the bike or the pictures to a motorcycle shop which has a welder working there. I'd ask them how far to take it down. Since they would be doing the work, I mean.
It would be best if it was taken apart and cleaned of all the oil and grease in order to get a good weld... If you don't the weld will pull the oil and grease from the in side of the case and it have a lot of porosity in it.... Just my 2 cents...
jd750ace
Front Toward Enemy
I agree. that case needs to be stripped bare, solvent washed, and vapor degreased prior to trying to weld it. If not, the welder can have micro-explosions during the weld that just blow a hole in the case.
Looks like a compound crack. It will have to be ground out in a "V" notch for an effective weld. The case is most likely A356 or a similar easy casting alloy, and should be able to be repaired with the relatively common 4043 alloy rod or wire.
Wow, see how fast that crack progressed from mild to bad! It's going thru the shift drum bearing boss area. This is a little more serious. Strongly recomment following JD750ace's recommendations.
Easy casting alloy, yes, hi-silicon content for easy pour...
Easy casting alloy, yes, hi-silicon content for easy pour...
Brian902
XS650 Junkie
JD and TooMany,
Just a thought.
Its spring time in his world, so perhaps just leave it for his summer running and fix next winter, his winter.
Or perhaps, groove some of it out and jb weld until winter.
All depending on how much it leaks on his next 100k test drive.
Not a very high stress area, top of the case, might not be a big deal. Not much load on a shift drum.
Then next winter do the suggested welding.
My 2 cents.
.
Just a thought.
Its spring time in his world, so perhaps just leave it for his summer running and fix next winter, his winter.
Or perhaps, groove some of it out and jb weld until winter.
All depending on how much it leaks on his next 100k test drive.
Not a very high stress area, top of the case, might not be a big deal. Not much load on a shift drum.
Then next winter do the suggested welding.
My 2 cents.
.
Last edited:
jayel
#9 Guru 74 TX650A
I'd be looking for internal damage to the gears (so teardown anyway) the force to crack the case came from the the inside, shifter fork shaft pushed up and out
Brian902
XS650 Junkie
Jayel,
According to what he said, the chain bound up and pushed against the case.
Picture 3 shows the point of impact.
Given the leverage at that point kind of justifies the damage.
According to what he said, the chain bound up and pushed against the case.
Picture 3 shows the point of impact.
Given the leverage at that point kind of justifies the damage.
jayel
#9 Guru 74 TX650A
ok the chain could do that I guess (was looking at that one pic and just realized it upside down)
I agree, Brian902, just a leakage issue, as long as the crack doesn't progress too much.
The only critical I see here is welding around that bearing boss, just don't want distortion or weld bead to ruin the inner surface. Could leave the bearing shell in there during weld, then replace with new bearing...
Anything you do now to try to fix it will make doing a proper repair much harder. If you want to ride it with a band aid , I might try giving it a coat of gasket sealer. This can be cleaned of easily. Patching it up with JB Weld will be nearly impossible to remove.
Leo
Leo
Brian902
XS650 Junkie
Good point XSLEO.
Don't do anything now that might make later repairs harder later on.
If Leo's sealant doesn't work, a little epoxy might. Use sparingly so you can grind off later.
Don't do anything now that might make later repairs harder later on.
If Leo's sealant doesn't work, a little epoxy might. Use sparingly so you can grind off later.
Dancingratt
XS650 Member
Thanks for the advice.
Seems like I'm up for a bit of a mission.
Someone else suggested I try a jb weld type liquid steel putty.
If that doesn't work, then try plan b. pull it apart.
Any thoughts on this solution.
Anybody had success with weld putty. ?
Seems like I'm up for a bit of a mission.
Someone else suggested I try a jb weld type liquid steel putty.
If that doesn't work, then try plan b. pull it apart.
Any thoughts on this solution.
Anybody had success with weld putty. ?
Dancingratt
XS650 Member
Sorry I only just saw all of the comments after I submitted last reply.
Thanks for all of your opinions.
The damage was caused by the chain getting jammed.
The motor starts and runs fine.
No oil leaks out but there is no load on it either.
The front sprocket lost two teeth in the process.
I think there may be no internal damage luckily.
I looked through my manual but can't find what that bearing is.
Thanks for all of your opinions.
The damage was caused by the chain getting jammed.
The motor starts and runs fine.
No oil leaks out but there is no load on it either.
The front sprocket lost two teeth in the process.
I think there may be no internal damage luckily.
I looked through my manual but can't find what that bearing is.
If your going to use the JB I would advise at the very least taking a ruff grinding wheel and ruffing up the area your applying it to as it is only a mechanical type bond. Also so long as there is no oil leaking out of the case right now, a good tig man should almost be able to fix that in the bike with out taking it out. I wouldn't keep riding the way it is because it will get worse.
angus67
Welder's penetrate deeper!!
wouldn't welding with it together as is start a internal oil fire?
