Front sprocket nut???

Equalizer

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Im replacing my drive seal behind the front sprocket.
My question is in the back of the sprocket nut it looks like a seal belongs in it.
Is this recess clearance for the rod or does a seal go in it??
Thanks, Eq
 
No seal, it allows the nut to push on the sprocket and lock ring without hitting the shaft splines.
That nut needs to be tight use nothing less than the correct 36mm socket. I guess that seal can leak go bad, I just have never seen one that has.
Loose nut? More often than not when I first open the side cover on an XS.
 
+1 on what Gary says about the seal not being the problem. It is always a loose nut for me also. And don't expect the lock tab washer to keep it tight, it should be an annual maintenance check.
 
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I already took the old one out. Just to be sure. From mikesXS I need the countershaft oil seal??
I wish I'd of asked this before I took the seal out.
 
Yes counter shaft oil seal. Might as well get a pushrod seal or two if all you are ordering is the one seal. Shipping is already a killer from them.
 
Placing the lock ring correctly so it engages the splines and doesn't get mashed is a bit fiddly. If it does get mashed (seen this many times) you can get a "false tight" nut.
Just to be perfectly clear, if the nut is not tightly clamping the sprocket against the #26 spacer the seal will leak, even though it's in good condition. Even if it's been leaking for years, tightening the nut will stop it.

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So is this nut on backwards? Put it on the same way the P.O had it. Doesn't mean much.
 

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Sure is, is the sprocket loose? With the nut backward it should be loose....

Nice cleaning job on those cases!
 
No. Sprocket is tight. I read a thread a while back about the sprocket nut being reversed. Now I know. Thanks.
As for the cases, I spent a lot of time blasting with glass grit. Messy stuff.
 
Is there a trick to get the washer on the splines without mashing it? Put the nut on without the washer first to get the splines to "pull out a bit"? Everything seems flush with the sprocket.
New seal was leaking. Good job i caught this now. One less thing to go wrong on shakedown.
 
With a mashed up lock washer like yours sometimes you gotta check fit, and clean, flatten, file, fit. Yes try snugging the sprocket without the washer see if that pushes it a bit further, compare the sprocket with a original for thickness? Tell us how this goes?
With the washer not where it should be, the sprocket may seem tight but loosen as soon as it's ridden
 
Manual says 72-87 ft lbs. I went 85. Is that enough? I lined the washer with the tabs as good as I could. ( kinda hard as you can't see wtf you're doing) Snugged the nut. I marked the washer and sprocket with a sharpie to see if the washer would move. If it spun, it wouldn't be lined up with the splines. Put the impact on it. Than torqued to 85ft/lbs.
 
This is another torque value that Yamaha, in their infinite wisdom (NOT, lol), changed many times over the years. Some of the Specials speced as low as 36 ft/lbs. The highest values were speced on the early models and they seem to work best as far as preventing leaks goes. 85 should be fine but you could go even higher if need be. The highest spec ever listed was 10-13m-kg, which translates to 72-94 ft/lbs. I use about 90.
 
If the nut is too loose, it's actually not the seal that's leaking. Oil runs out between the shaft and that spacer sleeve #26. The sprocket has to be very tight against that sleeve to stop oil from coming out between it and the back side of the sprocket. You're attempting to seal metal to metal so it has to be very tight. Here's a pic of mine, and even with the nut really tight, I'm still getting a little oil coming out, as indicated by the steaks emanating from the center. My next "fix" is going to be to try smoothing and polishing the back side of the sprocket better where it contacts that sleeve ......

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