Leaky XS650 replaced pushrod and sprocket seal

Z

Zombie Yamaha

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Hello guys bought a 1980 Yamaha xs650 a few months ago as and have been getting her in shape for summer. The bike leaked oil from the left side cover when I purchased it so I did some research and found that the clutch rod seal was a popular culprit. The bike only leaks when it has been ran recently or even if I push the bike(while cold and off) in the garage it will start a new little puddle oil also runs down the kickstand. I replaced the seal and used the old style rod because I had read that finding neutral would be easier and shifting would be smoother. Really liked the single rod compared to the previous ones but the oil leak was still there. So then I took the cover off again and it looked like oil had been coming from the sprocket. Replaced the sprocket seal and still leaks!:doh: Took the cover off again today to have a look and it seems that inside the actual sprocket (see pictures) is leaking! Is this something that I can repair without splitting the case? I am new to motorcycles as this is my first one so any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
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To get an idea of where the oil lands on the ground two small puddles but most of the time the puddle is double in size. This puddle is from pushing the bike while cold and not running in my garage.
photo3_zps100e808c.jpg
 
There was also a drop of oil hanging off of the clutch rod itself when I pulled the case off. Not sure if this is from being flung off the sprocket or maybe I need to re-do the clutch rod seal
 
Welcome to the site. It's obvious that you did not use enough blue sealer. tim
 
Unless the drive sprocket is torqued to spec they will leak.
And I think your sprocket nut may be on backwards.
And that isn't sarcasm but a serious thunk.
 
It's obvious that gobs of sealer are no substitute for knowing what you're doing, lol. Your countershaft seal looks like it could be seated a bit deeper. Also, your sprocket retaining nut is on backwards. That cut out portion should be facing the inside. The sprocket nut needs to be really tight, like 90 ft/lbs tight. If it isn't, it will leak (like it's doing). The sprocket needs to be pushed hard against the sleeve that fits inside the seal to seal up properly. Having the nut on backwards isn't going to allow that to happen.
 
5twins while we are on the subject, any thoughts as the purpose of a counter sunk drive sprocket(a couple of the OEM(?) sprockets I've removed are counter sunk both sides) vs. aftermarket flat sprockets? Or maybe I dreamt it.
 
I put the sealant on after I installed the seals to easier identify where the leaks were coming from. Not sure if you're being sarcastic or a douche.
 
weekendrider said:
5twins while we are on the subject, any thoughts as the purpose of a counter sunk drive sprocket(a couple of the OEM(?) sprockets I've removed are counter sunk both sides) vs. aftermarket flat sprockets? Or maybe I dreamt it.
Click to expand...

I'll jump in here. The countersunk area allows the splines of the shaft to protrude, while the sprocket nut can apply pressure to the sprocket only. Otherwise, the sprocket nut will torque-up on the splines and not the sprocket. Pressure on the sprocket delivers pressure to the spacer, and will stop the leak...
 
I've never run across a countersunk sprocket, only the retaining nut (on one side). The splines on the countershaft protrude out past the face of the sprocket slightly. This allows the teeth on the I.D. of the lock washer to lock into them. It would also, as TwoMany mentioned, stop the retaining nut from contacting the sprocket and applying the needed pressure to it to seal it. That's why the nut is countersunk on the back side, so it will swallow the protruding splines and make contact with the sprocket.
 
5twins I was remembering the amount of the bevel incorrectly.
After digging out an OEM sprocket and a uninstalled new replacement it is more of a bevel on the teeth only. I pretty sure I remember using replacement from the major aftermarket supplier it was only beveled on one side. And a replacement, origin unknown, that came in a in a parts box that was flat.
And I have answered my own question it is to ease installation and has nothing to do with drawing the spacer against the bearing tighter.
 

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Yes, that's probably all it's for. It wouldn't alter the fit (depth) on the shaft at all. Boy, these things really leak bad if that sprocket is loose, don't they? This one was promptly marking its new spot any time it was pushed to a new location in the garage, lol.
 
Yes they do. Back of my shirt , pant, jacket, rear tire and had oil from the chain flinging it. After tightening nut no more oil chain fling at all !
 
Don't forget to turn the nut over so the cut out fits over the splines.
Leo
 
Oh, on the blue RTV, he was being sarcastic, RTV of any color should be left in the store. Never used on anything you like.
The right sealants are available.
Leo
 
Yep, they don't even put silicone in tits anymore, lol. That's should tell you something.
 

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