Expanded charging system guide (In progress)

I can take a photo later, I'm at work at the moment. I'll try be more specific, I sent that last one in a rush.

On my 73, there is a battery strap from battery positive to the starter relay which has a plastic cover on it. This plastic cover has snapped slightly and now the battery strap can't be screwed into it. What is the function of this battery strap to starter relay? It's not clear on the wiring diagram at all.

I checked the bike over for exposed wiring that might be rubbing, but couldn't find any.
 
See the black plastic on the further end of this unit, some of it has snapped off and battery strap can no longer screw into it.

Haha best I can do from my car between meetings at work!
 

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See the black plastic on the further end of this unit, some of it has snapped off and battery strap can no longer screw into it.

Haha best I can do from my car between meetings at work!

I still can't make much sense of the problem. There is a cable from the battery positive to one terminal of the starter relay. That is the cable that carries the large current to the starter motor.
 
Yes and there is nowhere for that cable to be fixed now as the plastic shell of the terminal has broken off, will post a photo later. Sounds like I should just replace it, just sick of waiting for parts.
 
The battery strap that goes down to the starter motor is fine, it's the battery strap from the battery that can no longer be screwed in, and is just sitting there jammed into the top of the relay. i was thinking about just getting out the duct tape.
 

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Just a quick update while I wait for parts. My rotor tested 5.5 ohms between the slip rings after a clean as per this guide. The blowing fuses mentioned above wasn't my starter relay, although that was busted so I replaced it, it was actually caused by the alternator brushes I bought off MikesXS. The mounting bracket sat about 2mm further out than the stock brushes so the copper wiring was touching the alternator cover and causing a short. Slightly bent the bracket so it sits flush and now it's fine.

If anyone ever has this problem and googles it, hopefully this comes up and helps them, as I went through probably 20 fuses trying to diagnose.

Will report back when my new regulator and rectifier finally arrive.
 
those are the kind of hidden faults that can cause folk to give up and throw their bikes in the back of the garage. Well done in persevering and finding it.:thumbsup:
This should be sticky'd somewhere because its bound to catch out other owners
Any chance of a picture ?
 
No problem, see attached, you'll see the slight offset on one of the brushes.

I got my rectifier and VR115 today, wired it up and was keen to kick it over and see if I had charging. But I've replaced my clutch cable and in the process now my bike won't kick, so maybe tomorrow after work if I sort that issue out with the help of the forum.
 

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No problem, see attached, you'll see the slight offset on one of the brushes.

I got my rectifier and VR115 today, wired it up and was keen to kick it over and see if I had charging. But I've replaced my clutch cable and in the process now my bike won't kick, so maybe tomorrow after work if I sort that issue out with the help of the forum.

Your picture shows something is not correct with your alternator rotor. The rotor nut appears to be only engaging the crankshaft by a couple of threads. Are you aware of that?
When the nut is fully threaded on, the shaft will be proud of the nut.

If you do need to take off the rotor, be aware that there is a small woodruff key, that can fall out and get lost.
 
RG, I've never removed the rotor, that's how I bought the bike off the PO. Thanks for that, I'll tighten it this afternoon. Should I use the rotor puller I bought or would a ring spanner be sufficient?

2M, no idea, I'll leave that discussion to people who know what they're talking about.
 
RG, I've never removed the rotor, that's how I bought the bike off the PO. Thanks for that, I'll tighten it this afternoon. Should I use the rotor puller I bought or would a ring spanner be sufficient?

2M, no idea, I'll leave that discussion to people who know what they're talking about.

No, you don't want to tighten it. I sense that the PO may have done some dumb things on the bike, and assembled things incorrectly. Remove the stator. Remove the rotor (using the rotor removal tool, if its the correct tool for an XS650 rotor) and check that the woodruff key is in position correctly and not jammed.

If the rotor nut is tight, that means something is jammed in behind on the shaft.
 
It could be something as simple as too many washers or the wrong nut on there.
 
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Normally use impact guns for that.
Otherwise could smack the free end of the wrench with a hammer, counterclockwise.
That's similar to what an impact gun does...
 
How the hell do you get the rotor nut off without the rotor spinning??? I've tried holding it with a rag and using a 17mm wrench but no good so far.
Try putting it in first and with the adjustment nut lock the back brake.
 
Look at this...

Diagnosing and fixing this charging system issue took me close to a month. I don't want to speak too soon and will report back my progress but at least for now, it's charging. It was a faulty factory recrifiier and worn brushes. cant thank the people who have helped out above in this thread enough.
 

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How the hell do you get the rotor nut off without the rotor spinning??? I've tried holding it with a rag and using a 17mm wrench but no good so far.

Follow the advice from 2M and weekendrider. and the nut will come off.

When using the rotor removal tool,maybe put a tray or pan beneath the alternator so that the woodruff key or any foreign material will be caught and not lost.
 
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