Yes, the old rectifiers got the job done for many years, but a modern rectifier is a big improvement. The VR-115 will work well for you.
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Expanded charging system guide (In progress)
- Thread starter gggGary
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- electrical how to technical
Yes, the old rectifiers got the job done for many years, but a modern rectifier is a big improvement. The VR-115 will work well for you.
louis
XS650 Addict
One final question just to put my mind at ease, how much torque should be applied to the rotor nut? I went a little bit more than hand tighten using a 17mm wrench. I don't have a torque wrench, is this stuff important? Or once it's on and snug, that's enough?
Its always better to use a torque wrench. However, you can do it by feel as long as you put a bit of muscle into it. The torque setting is listed at different numbers over the various years. From 20 ft-lbs to as high as 58 ft-lbs. I've had my rotor off and on, and I now use 25 ft-lbs.
What did you find, when the rotor came off? There must have been something not right on the back side. Is the rotor nut now fully engaged on the crankshaft threads?
louis
XS650 Addict
The PO had used an extremely thick spring washer, the nut is now fully engaged on the crankshaft and the shaft is approximately 2mm proud of the nut.
"A bit of muscle into it", looks like I need to have another go at it with the 17mm wrench! I was pretty easy on it.
"A bit of muscle into it", looks like I need to have another go at it with the 17mm wrench! I was pretty easy on it.
Since this was a PO piece you may have one of the aftermarket rotors. I have had a few that needed the clear coat removed from the taper area and some filing of the key way slot so the half moon key doesn't keep the rotor from seating fully on the crankshaft taper. a quick check would be to seat the rotor without the key and see how far the nut runs on the crank thread, it should match that depth with the key in place.
2 mm protruding should be good. With a quick look, on my bike, its about 1 to 1.5 mm, so your rotor must be fully seated on the tapered shaft.
Obviously the PO had no understanding of how a tapered part fits onto a tapered shaft.
So, I expect the engine now rotates freely, as the rotor must have been binding on the brush screws.
If you plan to own the bike for more than a couple of years, you really need to buy a torque wrench, as they prevent nasty things like stripped threads.
Hmmmm ah yep it is only good if a guru says it.
About 154 watts at 2000 rpm and 200 watts at 4000 rpm. High quality Japanese Hitachi manufactured these, which is why they last so long.
The early XS1s were only rated for 100-115 watts, manual excerpts show the wattage ratings slowly increasing over the years. I wonder how they did that.
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?p=424689#post424689
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?p=424689#post424689
Reason Im wanting to have this information is I may be helping someone do a simplified wiring of a 78 cb750k model honda and would go with a vr115 regulator and a 3 phase converter. It looks like the honda puts out a bit more watts. Ive been happy with mine after I got a higher amp rectifier. I may have gotten a bad batch of them when I tried the 30 amp ones from china and had 2 burn out but after that I got a 50 amp I think and its worked fine.
Yes, you must have gotten some bad 30 amp rectifiers. I have been using 25 amp bridge rectifiers for about 9 years now, and they work perfect. Did you have a large enough heat sink on the 30 amp ones that failed?
I think we all know the Chinese are very good at mass production of parts. However, when they are made to a low price point, they may take some short cuts and quality will suffer. A few bad ones will make it through quality control.
andrew20941
XS650 Member
Hello from new member. I have an 81 model that won't charge I'm not sure the electrical system hasn't been modified. because I can't seem to make sense out of the trouble shooting tips. My regulator is two square metal boxes on a plate. and I have no green wire. The picture of the older model brushes shows one grounded and one to the regulator. Mine has a brown wire with battery voltage and the other wire apparently going to the regulator. If I ground what I would assume is the negative brush I get 14+ volts at the battery. I replaced the regulator with one from ebay and it made no difference. any help would be appreciated
You may be looking at the starter cut off relay on the right side of the bike.
On an 81 you should have a Solid State combined Reg/Rect.
Go back to Post 15 on the first page
On an 81 you should have a Solid State combined Reg/Rect.
Go back to Post 15 on the first page
andrew20941
XS650 Member
My regulator does not look like the picture in post #15 on page 1
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