First XS650 Build, What to Look For

SlowMaintenance said:
- - - Made me wonder how the comfort would vary between a solo seat with 3" springs and a king/queen setup like the one pictured below.
I hate to even ask because I know it's just opening the floodgates to the "why would you ever want to ride a hardtail" crowd, so please save your (and my) time when answering if don't have an answer to provide. Thank you! - - -
Click to expand...

Hi Nick,
I have ridden "hardtails" in my day and I have fond memories of my KSS Velocette and my 16H Norton even if we called them "rigid frames" back then.
Mind you, WTF anyone would remove a bike's rear suspension is beyond my comprehension.
But to answer your question, a solo seat with springs under it will give a more comfortable ride than the bolted down solid two level KQHB dual seat shown in the photo.
Mind you, the twinseat can provide a more interesting ride if you lean back and the young lady on the pillion is adequately mammalian, eh?
 
Other than the chopper look or a death wish would be a reason to ride a hardtail. I had a hard tail the bike came from the factory that way. If it had a rear suspension I would not have sawed it off. The back tire looses contact with the road surface with every bump is a drawback of the design the reason they put suspensions on motorcycles I would think. Not that ride quality witch is demised also. If you go into corner too hard and hit a bump on a wet road OH FUCK comes too mind. Since I was under power on an up hill curve the back end started sliding sideways once the tire contacted the road . I backed off the throttle to stop the slide and back on again to power out and not crash it worked. I was lucky there were no cars in the other lane since it was a two lane maneuver. My first and last hardtail.
 
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Nick, I live just a stone's throw from you. I've learned much from this thread and look forward to the next update. What shop/machinist did you take your engine to? I'd like to check them out, thanks.
 
SlowMaintenance said:
Found this picture here. I'll take the clutch back out tonight and do a comparison pic to see if my setup matches. I've definitely don't have #9 and my #6 has a few less rollers per square inch.

dmKgx5i.png
Click to expand...

Ok guys, sorry for the delay it's been a little busy at the slowmaintenance household lately. Here's my version of the photo above

MpkTKTB.jpg


Additionally, here's a shot of my clutch basket which does not have the tabs for that number 9 lock washer as I had expected. A few things about this situation.

gopxrwZ.jpg


I feel like my #1 and my #9 (obviously) are a little different. My #1 looks a little smaller than the picture above. Also, given the variance of these parts, I'm not certain which order they ought to go in. This is a little difficult because the manual is wrong and the picture listed above is different. Not sure where that leaves me, especially when many will bash those who can't figure these situations out with the typical "buy a manual if you're going to work on these older bikes" but I promise you I did, and I'm still a bit lost. Also, given the posts I've seen from other newbies watching this thread, I think we could all benefit from a little assistance on this.

In other news, the valves are still being inspected at the shop. Taking a little longer than I would have thought, but the guys at my local shop do great work. So I'll give that a little bit more time.

I did get the frame back to CT and get the VIN check, I'll be registering it next weekend! Gotta do that ASAP because my parents are moving and if I don't register it now it'll never be registered lol.

Also, just wanted to confirm that all of these gears don't need to be reinstalled, and that there won't be any issues from failing to do so.
http://imageshack.com/a/img922/1807/RqyXZZ.jpg
 
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theDQG said:
Nick, I live just a stone's throw from you. I've learned much from this thread and look forward to the next update. What shop/machinist did you take your engine to? I'd like to check them out, thanks.
Click to expand...

Hey man, glad to hear you're enjoying the thread. I was hoping that other people would find it useful and make all the pictures worth taking lol.

Do you live directly in Boston? The shop I use is out here in Newburyport, MA and it's called Seacoast Cycles. Ask for Kevin or Keith and tell them Nick sent you.
 
wX2VacZ.jpg

Also cleaning this grimey cover out to get it prepped for shipping to Blacksmith billy who will be modifying the worm gear for the foot clutch. He still does these if you reach out to him directly and per my research was the most solid way to set this up.

Still not certain whether I'll run mids or forwards, hard to tell until the bike it sitting as a roller. I'm not sure how well I'll fit on one of these bobbers and there are none in my area on which I could sit to get an idea.

Again, please don't come here and piss on someone else's build idea if a foot clutch isn't something that appeals to you. It's disrespectful to those in here who already have plenty of posts to sift through. If you have a story about how you'd never use one and want to let people know why...make your own thread or write it in your diary.

I will continue to update you guys on how that process comes along, and what snags (if any) I run into during the assembly.

Thanks!
 
Thank you.

Also forgot to mention, ordered one of the counterbalance cycles 2-1 intakes. Along with a Mikuni VM36 and the following jets

200 Main Jet
25 Pilot Jet
159-P8 Needle Jet
6F9 Jet Needle

This is based on information gathered from TeeCat's thread about a similar swap. Granted, he used the joe wiseguy intake whereas mine is of a different make but I'm happy to fill in the blanks for anyone interested as I do my initial testing.

Also, I ordered the right side kit. I know everybody seems to use the left side ones but I've always found it easier to tinker with things when they're on the right side of the bike, as the kickstand leans the bike over to the left putting the right side at the perfect angle for reaching things easily.
 
This should help with the clutch spacer washers .....

ClutchWashers.jpg


The smaller thin washer goes on first. It contacts only the inner race of the bearing in the case and spaces the whole clutch assembly out away from the cases. The other thin washer has too big of an O.D. to do this. It is used to help sandwich the radial bearing between the inner and outer hubs. Obviously, these two thin washers can't be switched around. They wouldn't do what they're supposed to if they were.

The nut and lock washer arrangement used to retain the outer hub changed a few times during the production run. The picture you found shows the later or last method used, starting around 1980 with the re-designed 6 plate inner basket. Yours won't use that method. You will have a domed (Belleville) lock washer on top of a plain steel one. The early clutches just used a regular split lock washer. This diagram shows your set-up. Yamaha calls the Belleville washer a "Conical spring" .....

Clutch.jpg
 
SlowMaintenance said:
Hey man, glad to hear you're enjoying the thread. I was hoping that other people would find it useful and make all the pictures worth taking lol.

Do you live directly in Boston? The shop I use is out here in Newburyport, MA and it's called Seacoast Cycles. Ask for Kevin or Keith and tell them Nick sent you.
Click to expand...

I will definitely check them out, thanks.

I live just south of Boston.

Are you going on the Boston Massacre ride on May 21/22? It's mainly choppers but everyone goes. I'm going on my cb750.
 
5twins said:
The nut and lock washer arrangement used to retain the outer hub changed a few times during the production run. The picture you found shows the later or last method used, starting around 1980 with the re-designed 6 plate inner basket. Yours won't use that method. You will have a domed (Belleville) lock washer on top of a plain steel one. The early clutches just used a regular split lock washer. This diagram shows your set-up. Yamaha calls the Belleville washer a "Conical spring" .....

Clutch.jpg
Click to expand...

Twins- This is exactly what I was looking for, thank you! This diagram reflects what I see in my bike, and I'm glad to know that conical spring is intended to be that way. When I first held it I assumed something was overtightened and had bent it out of shape.

The only difference I see is what this diagram calls "a" or "plate 1" which seems to be the same OD as "b" or "plate 2" whereas on mine (far right in pic) this washer is not the same OD as plate 2. Maybe the PO just tossed a random washer in there? EDIT: Nvm, the diagram in the top right with the side profile actually shows them as different sizes. I feel better lol.

DQG - I actually didn't know about this run but now I definitely want to go. Certainly won't have my chopper ready by then but I'll be there on the road star.
 
Yes, that Yamaha drawing isn't correctly scaled as far as some of the washer sizes in the larger drawing go. Rest assured, the way you found yours and the way it's laid out in your pic is correct. That smallest thin washer must go on first. The one you have looks to be an original, not some P.O. snafu.
 
Haha, always glad to hear that I have all the parts I need for the job.

And speaking of parts, I think this would be an excellent addition to a set of riserless rabbits for that drum front brake setup. Leaving here so I can find it later. Apparently this is the most reputable shop to get them from, but their ebay site is the only place they sell them as singles. And given the foot clutch setup, I'll just be needing the one for the front brake. Still a little puzzled as to how exactly these install, but I'm sure I'll figure it out. And as always I'll document the process for you here with countless pics.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/INVERTED-LE...CAFE-RACER-CHOPPER-BOBBER-HONDA-/311565334895
 
Hi Nick,
just as well you only want one of those inverted levers.
From the price of them they must be cast from sterling silver.
 
Yea I agree they seem a bit high. I've not had time to do a super deep dive on these but I see there are dozens of options on ebay including some solid brass variations I'm quite fond of.

Not sure how complex mechanism would be, or why it would need to be as expensive as it is. Figured I didn't want to go super cheap since a front brake might save my life, but if $50 or less would fit the bill, I'd certainly pay that instead lol.
 
Hi Nick,
I e-searched "inverted levers" and one site sold them for 105 the pair then I noticed it was a UK site with prices in Pounds Sterling.
Then of all places, on the Douglas Motorcycle Forum (And I was born & raised a short bus ride from the Douglas factory) I found this guy from the Ukraine who makes them to order.
e-mail Van Helsing 404 at vanhelsing404@gmail.com
 
Worth a shot! I sent him an email asking for a few pics of what he makes and an explanation of the ordering process.

I'll update you guys as I hear back in the event that one of you also wants to add a little extra something to their build.

I love the idea of an internally wired front brake cable and didn't realize this was even possible. The world is opening up. Single throttle cable will be the only exposed wire on the riserless rabbits I plan to use.

Here's hoping I can find a comfortable riding position for this bobber! The goal right now is the rabbit pullbacks, solo seat w/ 3" springs and a sissy bar mounted at a fairly steep angle to allow me to sling a duffel bag over it and use it as a backrest while riding.

Planning some long hauls
 
Hi Nick,
I saw an electrically operated twistgrip demo'd at a bike show years ago.
I can't find it via any google cue-words I can think of, perhaps you'll have better luck.
You don't fancy a foot throttle?
Best thought I can offer is try a straight pull twistgrip off a BMW, it puts the cable parallel to the bars so it ain't so noticeable.
Mind you, the bastards make the thing to suit their 22mm bars, you'd have to bore it out to 7/8" (22.2mm) to make it fit.
 
So that guy does indeed still make this style of lever for a 7/8" application. Here's the email I received, which has a link to what I believe is HIS products on ebay. At the same price of $100 after shipping. As to which of these options is better...no word yet. But for what it's worth, I prefer the hex key adjustment screw on these vs. the phillips head on the other one.

Hey. We can do without any problems! Under the inner diameter of the wheel 21 mm. Making of bronze and brass. If you want a smaller diameter is necessary to undermine the desired dimeter at the helm. http://www.ebay.com/itm/222037817556?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 That's what we'll do. There are mainly spare parts for Russian motorcycles. But we begin to make universal. We only since the new year began to produce their own parts. https://vk.com/album331083309_000
 

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